clayton006

Can you do that with a plastic dash? Yea at that point I'd probably be re-doing it in vinyl or replacing it.

Well this sucks. I sat something in my passengers side seat and it was touching the dash. Well I didn't know how sharp it was and it put a little crack to the right of the airbag in the car. I was wanting to know if anyone knew how to fix this or who to take it to. I'm not opposed to replacing the dash later, or even putting vinyl on it. Just trying to see my options. I pushed in what was sticking out and it doesn't look too bad. I'm just a little crazy about the car. If anyone ends up buying this from me I'll be lowering the asking price down after this (before its fixed).

Hello, Due to just wanting to get out of the payments and pay off some credit cards I'm thinking about selling my 1998 WS6 6-speed. It's bright red (factory paint) and has just shy of 82k on the odo. It has the Black Z06 rims on them. It just recently paid a visit to IPS motorsports for a tune and Kookhs (spelling?) LT's 1-7/8 and y-pipe and Both are stainless. IPS also added an SLP airlid (the slp letters on the lid got rubbed off sorta, long story) It is a really clean car inside and out. Looking for just my payoff which is somewhere in the range of 9500 - 10000 I believe (the bank isn't local and I haven't had a chance to call yet). If anyone needs pics I have some on my facebook page and I can post some when I get home tonight. Just trying to gauge interest.

The cam will come, just need to pay off this debt first. Then it will be heads and cam time! But I'll need to save up for the LSX and TB before I go with the setup. Thanks a lot for the above posts.

Thanks for the info everyone. I looked at the packages (didn't see the stickies in ls1tech, not sure which subform you were referring to) and it looks like 350-370 HP at the crank is possible with the Kookhs 1 7/8 headers, slp loudmouth cat-back, SLP or MTI lid, and a good tune. That sound about right?

So really the SLP lid or the clear one will work just as well? And I'm assuming that is a yes on the free ram air mod? In other words, with a lid and mod, it will be an improvement over stock? EDIT: I should say, an improvement, with those Kookhs (sp?) long tubes, a SLP loudmouth and a tune?

Hello all. (if this needs to be moved to Tech Help then please do, just asking for an opinion so now sure where this goes) I'd like to know if I need to change my stock air lid or get some other type of intake for my WS6. I'm having IPS install a set of long tubes and y-pipe and tune and I'd like to let the car breathe a little bit. What should I get to compliment that setup? I'll eventually be getting an LSX intake manifold with a TB to go with it when I get ready for my Heads/cam. Some people are saying to get the SLP air lid since I have a WS6 and obviously the hood works. Not sure what I should go with? And I should have the free ram-air mod done as well correct? Thanks for the input!

Is there a good place to buy these mounts from or a particular brand I should take a look at?

Well u-joins could be a problem as well, but I know already that at idle the engine has a lot more movement than normal. Just popping the hood and revving the car the engine moves quite a bit more than it usually does, but I know it's not missing. It feels like engine is shaking down the whole front end of the car (At idle and driving).

Yeah I just checked the trans mount yesterday and it's good. I'd like to put poly mounts on the car since I'm there, but I may still take your offer if they are expensive. @Bill. I'll send you a PM in the next few days and we will set something up! Thanks for the generous offer!

Hello, I had a question for anyone willing to help. I have a 98 TA and I believe the motor mount just snapped and the whole car shakes when I give it some gas. (I can tell that the engine isn't missing though). I was wondering the difficulty in changing out the motor mounts or if someone could lend a hand? Also I need my power steering pump replaced and not sure how to use the pulley puller I have. So any help with that as well would be appreciated!

Hello all, I need to replace the oil sensor in my 98 and I was wanting to know who's done this before and if you have to take the intake off to do it? Looks like the black sensor part is just dangling there and the rest of it is still on the block. I'd like to have it up and running this weekend if at all possible. Let me know. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

Yeah it's got the plastic pulley... Yeah, I think I'd still want a hand in tackling this just so I really don't screw this up. I'm in no hurry so I'm sure I can find someone in a month or so.

I think the only confusing part was the directions that came with the pump. Not sure what pieces go where to start getting that pulley off.

Hello, I've never done this before so I'm just looking for a little help. I need to replace my power steering pump on my 98 WS6 TA. I have the pulley puller and pump and fluid ready to go, I just need an extra hand, or someone willing to help me get this off. I'd just like to learn how to do it. I know it's not difficult at all to get this taken care of, but just need a little assistance. I can provide some cash and/or beer for the trouble. Thanks in advance, Clayton

Yeha I know, you haven't returned my calls so I figured you've been too busy :-)

Well strange thing happend. I got home from AJ's house and put on the air dam. I started driving down the road and the SES light went off. I started and stopped the car a few times and the light never came (and stayed back on, the light still worked when it tests all of them at the beginning of a start) So it looks like it might be ok now, but it still has a good miss to it. Looks like I have to start from scratch on that!

It looks like I might have some bad wiring or PCM. Does anyone have a PCM for a T56 that has a relatively stock program just to test it with to see if that is the culprit?

The code I received was the P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit low input

Well, the two delco knock sensors did not take care of the problem. It ran a lot better for about 1 hour, then the code threw again and it started running rough. The code is the knock sensor circuit low input code (the guy at autozone didn't say which bank it was reporting back, I may want to have the codes scanned again) It looked like one of the connectors to the rear knock module had a little bit of oil or some liquid around it. Could this now be a problem with the connector? It didn't look like a lot of fluid.... Any other suggestions?

Ok cool, I might end up doing the pump today as well. Thanks for the heads up

Well I'm having the funny feeling that it's already pulling timing on it already because it's running a little rough. I should probably keep it grounded until I have at it.

Hello, It seems this new car is giving me a few fits and I have a question to ask as well. The power steerint pump needs changed. Now I'm not sure if I should get a Delco of this too or if the Autozone one should be sufficient. I also hear that they don't come with the pulley. So do I need a puller to get it off? And if so how does that thing stay back in when I put it in the new pump (is it a press fit?) Never done one on my LT1 or on this LS1. Also, I'm thinking about taking this car up to Canton today. If the power steering goes out thats not a big deal to me, but I'm wondering if I should drive it with a knock sensor going out? I don't think it would hurt anything, but opinions are requested. Thanks,

Yeah I'll stop by sometime either Wednesday or Thursday (whichever is best for you) and we can take a look. I've had my LT1 intake off before (with the help of Josh M.) but never tackled this one yet. At least my new thermostat is working :-)

That would be awesome! Thanks for the quick reply!