I would think a well trained German shepherd could do the trick. I have a bully and he likes to pull and i think most do. My parents German shepherd pup seemed to learn fast and seems really smart.
Would covering the rear wells help? what about air splitters for the front wells?
As far as exhaust heat, i would just have it cut out just behind the front tire.
Could you make bolt-on under body panels for typical hyper-miler cars?
Art Carr 9.5" aod non lockup 3500 stall for fi. roughly 5k miles 350$
Precision 9.5" aod non lockup 3500 stall for fi. needs rebalanced 250$ (getting fixed)
south bend stage 3+ might be called 2 drag (600ish trq) 2k miles 300$
jw ultra bell mounted but never ran $350
matching cut aod case $150
t5 pro5.0 shifter 80$
stock 6 piece headlights 50$
black housing 1 piece headlights from latemodel not even a year old 140$
poly trans mount, open but no used. 20 bucks spf
tri axis shifter handle 20
oreilys clutch 40 bucks
clutch cable 30 bucks
jegs firewall adjuster 30 spf
jegs quad 30 spf
oreilys front struts like new 1k miles 50 for pair
jegs racing seat with bracket 75
dyed black front 91 seats 100$ no brackets
t5 starter 25 or trade for auto starter.
t5 block plate 20
stock flywheel 25
trade a plain bov 50mm tial spring for a black spring
stockish rear struts free-ish
After the trans is mounted to the motor, and the torque converter is fully seated; what is the acceptable distances between the converter and flex plate. And exactly how do i check that?
Im using a b&m flexplate and a jw ultra bell which is about a 1/2" larger than stock to allow for bigger converters. Tho im using an Art carr aod converter.