flyinbrian

He's right. I am originally from the same area, (Ironton). Columbus is just as close. I remember Cinci being a pain in the ass to get to. The road follows the river and goes through a bunch of small towns....takes forever.

The GMC grille/billet insert/no emblem/painted to match is the way I am leaning after looking at both set ups. OEM all the way. LMC will be getting a constructive email from me this week just to let them know the condition of the grille they shipped. It's my fault for not checking everything once it arrived, but the boxes were perfect and it was going to be months before I needed the parts. Not looking for a refund, just constructive feedback from someone that spent $3000 with them. As far as the new grille goes, I'll have both amber and clear just to see what it looks like. Like Adam said, the clears are too blingy for me too. Since the rockers will be covered in https://www.lamin-x.com/ for paint protection, I'll go ahead and order some light smoke film for the clear lenses while I'm at it. Thanks for the kind words guys. A vehicle this big is quite the project. Next project will be two doors and carry value once completed, lol.

Here it is today. A ton has been done since the last update, but it's hard to tell by the pics. Since the last update, the silver was resprayed, tons of wet sanding and buffing, new glass installed in the rear, (four pieces), and a new windshield was put it. Also, I had a local hot rod pinstriper hand paint a pinstripe and a few custom touches. I have a grille from LMC that we fought to put on the truck. It was a total POS so I trashed it. Time to order a better one. Guess you get what you pay for. Thinking about a complete billet piece from T-Rex or Precision Grilles. Also going to lose the stocker amber signals in favor for clear. I'll keep the stockers if I change my mind later. POS GRILLE http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2505.jpg Pinstripe and details. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/IMG_1171.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/IMG_1172.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/IMG_1173.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/IMG_1174.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/IMG_1175.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/IMG_1176.jpg So that is how it sits in my garage right now. Waiting for me to order a grille, assemble new window fuzzies and windows, plus interior. Still have to get the rear six windows blacked out and the front two 35%. Have to finish audio/video and wiring. Lots of work ahead.

The shell as of today... http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2202.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2201.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2200.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2197.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2196.jpg Wet sanding and buffing left to do. The hood is painted, but no pics. Still have the doors and fenders to do. The silver will be repainted on the shell since he's not happy with it. Too hot when laid down, but it looked good to me...especially after some sanding/buffing.

More LMC stuff. It's unreal how many parts there are on a vehicle this size. This box has a bunch of interior clips and both rear, (barn door), windows. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2169.jpg Hey, it's at the body shop!!! MORE BLOCKING!!!!!!! http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2189.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2188.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2187.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2186.jpg

Fully customized. Gotta love it. My two year old is afraid of her Barbie Jeep

Thanks Adam. We have the paint and it has been decided two-tone House of Kolors black on top/silver on bottom. There is a body line just under the side windows where the color change will take place. I was considering black wheels/grille/bumpers, but after much googling I find the chrome grille/bumpers/wheels to look better with the black on top and silver down low. We are kicking around ideas on rock chip prevention along the rockers. He told me of a product that was clear and similar to bedliner material. Either that or the 3M clear bra stuff like at rockblocker.com. I've used that with great results before. Now have to start wheel shopping.

Another update. Tons of blocking to make this thing laser straight. All trim holes and fender flare holes welded up and filled. One more step of blocking and priming ahead at 320 then it's to the booth. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/June279.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/June283.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/June292.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/June297.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/2010-06-29215153.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/2010-06-29215215.jpg

Quick update on the Burb. We have all of the glass out, all doors off, all trim, bumpers, fenders, etc. It's down to the shell. Now time for body work and filling of the roof rack holes and fender flare holes. Since these pics were taken, the body work has been competed. Headed for the booth next week as far as the shell is concerned. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2060.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2061.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2062.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2063.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2064.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2065.jpg

You can do some searching for free on this government site. http://archives.gov/ Or make it a stop while you are visiting Washington DC, (which I recommend to everyone who has not yet been there three or four times by now.)

Added the first round of sound deadener from http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi .. Using 85 CLD tiles for the first layer. Adding mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam after that. Been mocking up, mounting, drilling, and installing the car audio/wiring before it goes to the paint booth. Speaking if which, the Burb goes away for body work and paint this week. I can't wait. Funny thing is, I originally said to paint it all white. Then the guy painting it had some ideas with two-tone silver, and so on. Now I am googling images left and right for ideas. The wife does not want anything too custom, but I like custom. Here's a couple pics of slow going progress. Contrary to what many people think and do, 25% coverage is all that is needed on the first layer http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2012.jpg Disregard the mess. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2011.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/brianscy/The%20Burb/DSCF2013.jpg

+12312983198491491384 I had to replace the head unit in my parts getter. Found an open box deal on a JVC at the local Crutchfield nearby. It has HD radio built in. I have not listened to testicle radio in 5 years...not exaggerating. Wow. HD radio solved to quality issue but did not address the content issue. Testicle radio is on it's way out. (Thankfully).

DO EET. I look forward to driving to work and back every day, (140 miles round trip..rural Virginia rolling hills to mountain back roads).

I've had a 2005 TDI Golf since new. Just turned 119K today. I put a bigger turbo,(bolt on from Garrett), and had it tuned via email from KermaTDI.com with a programmer they sell to flash the ECU. Like posted earlier, go to tdiclub.com. That said, get a 2003 or older. The 2004-2005 are problematic if someone used the non 505.01 oil. If the wrong oil is used, the cam will wipe and clog the oil line to the turbo adding up to an expensive repair bill. ($675 for cam, $8 for each one-time use head bolt, and so on.) The previous model, (ALH), can take Rotella all day long and many-o-mod without any trouble. Timing belts are every 90K nowdays and it's not that bad to do IMO. With my upgrades and the stock MAP, I have surprised a stock VR6 GTI and a 330 CI...they still outran me, lol, but the old TDI did shock them in first and second gear. I average 46 mpg too! Plan on adding the 3 bar here this summer and getting a new tune. Cliffs-TDI's are great if you want to become a VW diesel expert. (EDIT)- and the carbon build up issue is a SIMPLE FIX...remove the EGR, fab up block off plates, no more build up..EVER.

A good friend of mine who makes his living painting cars taught me to do what you are looking to do with the DeWalt DW849. I am still nowhere as good as him, but I did manage to wetsand/buff a few cars and a boat since. Also following his lead, I use 3M products. Finesse it, Perfect it, etc. You can read up on their website and decide what you need. http://solutions9.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQGLE0_nid=44MRXNVZH7beSQSFJR0R56gl All local body shop supply stores will have the 3M stuff in stock. Here is a link to a buffer on Ebay for cheap. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DEWALT-DW849-CAR-BUFFER-NEWER-7-9_W0QQitemZ250614741857QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a59cd7b61 Hopefully a pro will chime in here as this is not my specialty, but I had great results with the above mentioned products.

Could have used a set of those for sure! That said, 9" > my old ten bolt not leaking

So true on the c-clip eliminators. I ran them on the street/strip in a 10 bolt rear for a few years and fought the leak the entire time. I put all kinds of money in that 10 bolt before someone talked me into building a 9" Ford. In fact, I could have built a 9" in the first place for about the same money. Live, spend, and learn. If I were in your shoes, I'd save up and build a bulletproof 9" and forget about it.

No problem. The bottom o-ring keeps the fuel from pushing past the injector pod and into the intake. Look at the pic below. You can see a small hole where the injector goes...that is where the fuel enters the pod. The o-ring is the only thing keeping it from pouring into the intake. http://marine-performance-parts.com/images/products/detail/gmtbiinjectorpod.1.jpg Here is another pic. Not your system, but it gives you an idea of how it works. http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/9103/chiltonimages/9103/91035g09L.gif Here's your injector on the right. Notice the screen. That is where fuel enters. One o-ring below and one up top to seal it into the injector pod. http://www.theguestroom.net/manuals/Injectors%20and%20Fuel%20Supply_files/port_tbi_inj.gif I don't know everything about these, but I have managed to get a 496 cubic inch, full roller big block to run quite well with a tbi on my own tune. Lots of reading, asking questions, trial and error. Just trying to save you from throwing money away.

I ran one on the street for three or four years. When I turned sharp and parked the car it would leave the chassis in a bind which would make one side of the rear end higher than the other. I lived with the chirping and binding, but for the street the posi-locker-limited slip is much better. If the car sees very little street duty and more track, go spool.

I wouldn't buy new injectors until I spent $49 on a tbi rebuild kit. The kit has the injector o-rings included which is normally what the problem is with the dripping at the injectors. Plus you get a new diaphragm for the regulator. Buying a new regulator and injectors is throwing money away IMO. Like the others said too, hook up the O2 sensor. The ECM does not use the O2 sensor in open loop. Once the truck gets up to operating temp and goes into closed loop it is looking for the sensor.

I have a Millermatic 251 MIG and it requires a spool gun that actually holds the aluminum wire and 100% argon. I don't know about your machine, but it will at least need a kit from the manufacturer for aluminum with a non-metallic liner, different guides and tips. Of course you'll 100% argon. I would drop it off to someone with a TIG.

The TBI rebuild kit is cheap and easy. Has all the o-rings and gaskets, plus you get a new diaphragm for the regulator. I've heard of IAC passages getting clogged and hanging an IAC up causing similar troubles. Another quick and easy one to check, clean, and reset. Ignition modules have been known to drive people nuts with similar issues in the TBI'd GM vehicles like yours. There is a dielectric grease that acts as a heat sink between the module and the distributor that has been known to break down over the years and overheat the module. Just some ideas.

Are you getting a "Service Engine Light"? I'd pull codes anyhow, (shorting pins A and B on the ALDL). Could be your fuel pump too.

Thanks! Next up is in-car and hopefully track vids flogging it with the nitrous.

This is the truth....and obviously dress like you're going to a job interview. First impressions can make or break you. Humility goes a long way too.