wnaplay1647545503

I am always amazed at how those in different countries kinda have no idea what life is like here. You would think in this day and age it would be common knowledge.

WIth averaging 2 gallons per room I would say your doing around 3-5 rooms of painting, spackling, wiothought seeing it, I would say an average price would be around $500-$1000. Carpet I would say average around $3-4.50 sq ft for install plus materials.

Looking for a fuse block. Looking for something that holds 5-10 fuses.

How about doing the job they are paying you to do? Sounds like that will definately be a break from the norm and will perhaps get the shock value your looking for.

I am going with my father in law.

Everything on the house?

It would be easier to address what exactly needs done. Most things can have rough guess-timates applied to them with a brief desription.

Thanks dave, I will probably be calling you for tune-up parts. Can engine parts for automotive use work on boat engines(tune-up parts)? I need plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and probably more than anything the ignition sensor which goes in the distributor. I know boat parts are fitted with special screens that quench internal sparks that might otherwise vent into the atmosphere and light-off gasoline fumes present in the engine compartment. I dont want to run the risk just to save a few bucks. Update: I put the old ignition sensor back in and put everything back together. I put a jumper on the neutral safety switch and still nothing. I take off the jumper and decide to try to fire it up. It almost starts but nothing. I give it a break and go back out and try again it almost wants to start so I keep giving it fuel over and over and it finally starts. I shut it off and hook up the muffs. I again get it to start but it doesnt want to. It finally dies and wont restart even though I can see fuel getting to it. I am hoping that taking out the ignition sensor and roughing up the metal parts that may have given me some indication where my problem actually was. I am hoping that a new one will take care of the problem. The neutral safety switch doesnt appear to ever be triggered. I ran it through all the gears and nothing ever came in contact with it so I dont know exactly what its purpose is.

Looking for used and well taken care of to save some money.

Heres todays round of tests. I take the distributor spark wire which comes from the coil and inserted a spark plug into the end(spark plug is now resting on block). I turn the ignition to on. I begin to remove the white/green lead from the dist terminal and as I am undoing it, the spark plug begins sparking(I dont know if its from the connect/disconnect of the wire as it comes off the terminal). So I say great heres spark, I tighten it back up and try again, nope. So I am getting spark, I think. Based on the instructions below would you replace the ignition sensor? I think I am reading it wrong for some reason. I had 12 volts going into amplifier. I cannot find the ignition module. I believe I found the shift cutout switch and wondering if I can run a jumper across it to see if the switch is bad. I removed the shift sensor(looks old and somewhat rusty) but after looking at diagrams online there should be a module where I am looking but there isnt. Tests for TB ignition: W/ignition key on AND BILGE WELL VENTILATED OF GAS FUMES!!! Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist. If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp. In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced

I keep meaning to reschedule him for an estimate but time is not at a premium. Glad he does good work.

Boat wont start. I have been at it all day with no luck. I am out.

I unplugged the amplifier and checked the connection. I will take a closer look at it in the morning.

I dont because Anthony has never given me any.

Thank you sir and welcome.

Nice pics, but did I miss the intro like the stickies state?

So whats the next thing to check? The wiring all looks like exactly what I have and everything appears to be connected. I havent seen anything that looked like the ignition module nor do I see where its in-line on the diagram.

It does not have points if thats what you mean.

Its a v8 5.0L mercruiser. Its probably to dark for pics to turn out tonight. So much for boating with the smalls tomorow. I dont get it, I have checked almost everything I can think of and everything I could find online. (I am no good with a voltmeter) but I checked the voltage on the + side of the coil and it had the same voltage as the battery. I am so frustrated at this point. AJ heres a pic of a motor that looks almost just like mine but has a different cover. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/digi38989396_l.jpg

I dont think so, its an 89 maxum

rear

That part was left out for our amusement. Not really, disconnect the powa.

No idea which motor this translates to in boat terms. Its a 5.0 something. Second gen, reading owns you as it states its for a boat in the original post. I put a volt meter to the positive and I am getting the same as the battery. Although when I try to arc the positive across the negative side of the coil it doesnt spark or anything nor when I try to arc it from the positive side of the battery. I wouldnt think my old coil would be bad and then the new one as well but you never know. I have been on it for hrs and hrs now and still no closer. No fuses blown. I hooked up power straight from the battery and still nothing. I bypassed my safety switch and still nothing. Somebody give me something else to check. Under the cap was wet but got it all dried out, could water have gotten lower than the rotor? Even if, why am I not getting spark at least.

1. Ensure outdoor condenser unit is level in both directions. 2. Pour 8 parts water to 1 part bleach down the evaporator coil drain pipe 4 times per year, to prevent mold from developing. 3. Replace air filter monthly. This prevents dust buildup on the evaporator coils, which interferes with proper airflow and can cause icing problems. 4. Clean outdoor condenser coils in early April of each year with a garden hose. Remove front and side condenser coil covers and gently hose away dirt, grass, and debris. Straighten any bent fins with a fin comb. Don’t cut the grass around the condenser unit, while it is running. 5. Remove high voltage cover plate and clean area of dirt, fire ants, and spiders each year. Fire ants and spider webs are dielectric and can prevent the contactor from working. Examine wiring for burning and capacitors (on single phase current units) for leakage and swelling. In order to check condenser capacitance, all wires must be removed first. Spread fire ant chemicals around condenser unit to keep ants from globulating on the contactor. They are attracted to 60 Hz current. Spray connectors with WD-40, making sure not to get any on the contacts to the contactor. 6. Oil both condenser fan motor ports with 15 drops of ISO 32 (10 wt.) turbine oil each year. A 4 oz. Zoomspout Oiler from ACE Hardware costs $1.65. The finest synthetic lubricants, which I use, are Mobil SHC 624 and Amsoil RCH05. 7. Replace contactors (relay) proactively every 6 years. This is at the heart of properly maintaining an air conditioner and is the most overlooked preventive maintenance step. Some HVAC technicians will recommend replacing the whole outside condenser unit ($1,500), when only the contactor ($15) needs replacing. When contactor points open and close, they become pitted. As the cross-sectional area of the points gets cut in half, the resistance goes up by a square function (four fold). [Remember the formula for calculating the area of a circle = pi x r (squared)] This results in the compressor motor becoming starved for electricity, which causes it to work less efficiently and can burn it up. Method: While the old contactor is still mounted, "crack loose" the four 5/16" hex-head bolts securing the main "line" and "load" wires. Using a 5/16" nut driver, remove the two hex-head mounting bolts to the old contactor, mount the new contactor, and then replace wire-for-wire from the old contactor to the new contactor. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and a small screwdriver to assist you in removing and replacing wires. Sit on a chair and take your time, while you perform this task. In some areas of the country, HVAC supply houses won't sell to you, unless you work in the industry. It's a different story online. Here's what contactors look like: http://www.famousparts.com/cutham12pold.html Click the contactor you are interested in; then, click the small picture you see to the right for the contactor's specifications. Here is a very useful contactor cross-reference chart: http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/...pg_112_113.pdf 8. Replace digital thermostat alkaline batteries every 2 years. Low batteries can play havoc with the thermostat and cause dangerous inadvertent Locked Rotor Amperage that can damage contactors and compressor motors. Ensure your thermostat has an anti-short cycle feature, which can save your unit when the power goes off and then slams back on. 9. Obtain documentation on your air conditioner, while you can. Wiring diagrams and functional unit part lists are often in a plastic bag behind the high voltage cover to the condenser unit. It's invaluable data that will be destroyed by weather, if you don't get to it first. Keep the original in the house and replace a copy in the condenser unit. Record the data on the metal tag on the condenser unit--a lot of valuable data is even embedded in the model number;e.g., TTP036C100A2. Since there are 12,000 BTUs per ton, digits 5 and 6 tell us that this is a 3-ton unit. 10. Check system cooling. As long as the temperature differential between the air coming out of the air duct closest to the furnace and the air return duct is at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, then the freon level is probably fine. An additional check is to feel the large, low pressure, insulated return line to the compressor--it should feel cool and have condensation on it. 11. Obtain a Fluke Model 16 HVAC digital multi-meter to check capacitors, temperatures, and other items. It also happens to be about the best DMM for diagnosing automotive electrical systems. A properly maintained air conditioner should last 25 to 30 years. 12. Wax your condenser unit, when you wax your car.

Edited first post for new problem.