OGRE

I am in the camp of, i would rather buy a car that someone else has paid alot of money to mod. If you know what to look for and what you are looking at (this may require a friend that is into your desired vehicle type) Buy a modded car that some other dumbass has lost money on. Grab your compression gauge and check the health of the eng. ect. This does not mean you will not have things to repair. but why pay for the good expensive crap when hyou can let someone else do it?

http://www.nationaltrailraceway.com/apcm/templates/news.asp?articleid=58819&zoneid=23 well the rearend is broken in, and i don't have to work, the kids are gone to grandma's. I think The Red Turd should go to the track. weather may be a bit problematic but oh well. Anyone going?

test drove a saturn once, even with a stick it was slow and horrible. I'll DD my mustang with idle issues any day over that shit.

I may be there, but probably not racing. even though the mustang would be there too.

Car probibly not going to be ready by then sunday would be a great day to T&T. and it looks like domestics can burnout contest too?

I wonder how the cities bring down the average income of the rural areas in ohio. You don't see groups of rundown houses for under $50k out here. smaller cities in ohio like lima, springfield are pretty much armpits.

best place to look are mustang forums, corral, small local forums, i found this by posting a wanted ad in the dayton mustang website, a guy that split time on another forum knew about it. . . . i'll keep an eye out.

stock with nothing but an h-pipe and 2.73 gears my old one went 14.55@95. it drove great, they are easy to work on, parts are cheap, the 4.6L is as dependable as any other eng. you will find, and exhaust is sweet music. Good tires are a must in the winter. at 225bhp stock it is a turd, and will always be a turd unless you do a PI head swap. It's my favorite mustang body style. i would suggest looking for one already modded, because it really doesn't add to the price at all.

headswapped so the compression is 10.5:1 . . . bottom end is almost 160k miles old. so no boost. it will get an al. block trickflow headed 2v, or a coyote.

You may want to add a couple more MPH to your trap speed before thinking I need a new engine. BTW, the brakes are stock, and plenty good enough. Ordered the shocks today.

lol don't be hatein'

I use a savage model 12, with a nikon predator special BDC reticle scope, good bypod. i use 55 gr. hornady v-max with 25.5 gr or vargate. it's a heavy rig, 12+ lb. but it hits stuff that it is aimed at. Longest groundhog kill so far is 365 yards. It has killed a golfball at 200yds and shoots sub-1MOA groups. In rare instances that this gun misses, it's always my fault.

double post. the shocks i think are still the leading contender. but loving the suggestions. engine is maxed out for what it is, there are no better bolt-ons (cams incl.) exhaust too, front susp. is full tubular with 12-250 springs/(no swaybar) the trans is toped by an MGW, leading an al. DS. Babbit bearing is building the rearend right now, detroit truetrac/motive 4.10 gears with superior 31- splines and a girdle, held in by polymer bushing solid control arms. this is why i'm asking others to brainstorm because i'm kinda at a loss untill the piggybank can afford a coyote swap or a paint job.

cam(s) are done, and no where are you going to find 4.6L shafts for under $200. front susp. is tubular with coilovers & CC plates. It has good upper and lower control arms. Cut springs work just fine, I have seen and been told time after time that many guys alot quicker than me use them. The car is supposed to just be a fun street car that gets to go to the track a few times a year. it has flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back, LT's with a prochamber midpipe. it sounds great. J-claytor, it gets washed and waxed regularly, but the old girl will never be a show queen, i'd rather paint it madmax style and surprise some one.

both done.

well shit it worked

how do i take a img uploaded to CR and put it in my sig?

I have a $150 gift card to summit. Well thinking it is a good time to brainstorm on what to do with it. A line lock- good: easy on back brakes, but i only do burnouts a couple times a year. Battery relocation: we all know the good, but i rally don't want to put a switch on the back of the car. I know MCIR doesn't care but Trails sure will. shocks/struts: it has cut coil springs in back and coil overs up front. don't know how old they are, but they don't look bad likely around 25k mi. old. Strange makes adjustable rear shocks for $70 ea. any other suggestions? there are no more bolt-ons that are an upgrade to the engine or driveline.

I need to drop the axle and rebuild it . . . again.

BTW talk to me, I got a street/strip 98GT that could use your rear shocks. or could use any strip oriented parts, i have a 70k mi 04 crown vic i'm parting out but i dont' think u can use anything from it.

What would happen if you didn't pay the ticket? is it different than a speed cam ticket? I was busted by a speed camera in a small town about 2 years ago, did some research and realized all they could do is send it to collections & put it on my credit report no chance of anything happening to my license. I didn't pay it, the fine went up to about $200 in the final letter they sent over a year ago. Currently nothing at all on my credit report.

I really thought the britts were made of sterner stuff. What a bunch of Pussies.

sad i didnt see this alot earlier i would have been there!!!

Love my fords but I will never buy a v-6 from them. I stick to the v-8's and that is about it.

it was 1.5 qt low when i got there, and had a pretty healthy vibration (he said it could be the mounts. Could smell the oil a little when standing behind car and he gave it a rev. in hindsight i think i need to stay with a bigger family vehicle that my wife can drive too. Thank you for the heads up guys.