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RedRocket1647545505

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Everything posted by RedRocket1647545505

  1. Prices are (for return trips, 1-ways are priced differently): 10' truck - $19.95/day 14' + 17' - $29.95/day 24' + 26' - $39.95/day $0.99/mile/anyday $100.00 deposit up front. Insurance is optional; $0 or $14 or $28 depending on what you select. You replace any fuel you use. My work rents Uhauls as well as heavy equipment. The prices are pre-set in the computer system. While we can change them, we have to provide a reasoning to the main hub in Columbus as to why we did it. So basically, you probably won't be getting any discounts from anybody. On that note, don't rent from Uhaul. Go with Budget or Penske.
  2. So long as I can get out of school before then, I'll be semi happy. I've got either a G8 GXP or a CTS-V on my list of next cars I might want.
  3. Same here. Seems to get worse with age. I find myself standing there for an extra minute or two waiting for it to drain.
  4. Not kidding. Wish I was. http://socialitelife.celebuzz.com/images/culkinkunis.jpg http://www.celebritycouples.net/portals/1/ProfilePics/MacaulayCulkinMilaKunis.jpg "The couple first started dating back in 2002. She claims that her role as one of the voices on the cartoon "The Family Guy" is one of the reasons they are together, as he is a fan of the show."
  5. Don't ask me how, but that agoraphobic faggot has been hitting this for the last 7 years... http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg192/Sharapovas/2006-09-01_045256_mila_kunis_l7.jpg
  6. Have fun with your AIDS, faggot.
  7. Canker sore treatments: -topical or systemic Corticosteroids -tetracycline oral suspension (Was just reading over this in my text book and remembered this post.)
  8. For CR, I'd do it for the cost of parts.
  9. What's the heater doing/not doing, exactly? I find that ignitors are rarely the problem. It's usually either: 1. The flame sensor (It'll light, run a few seconds, and then shut off), or 2. The rotor broke. They're graphite and tend to break fairly easily. The fuel is pump via vacuum from the rotor. If the motor kicks on, then the ignitor, but then shuts off a few seconds later, it's usually the rotor. There are 2 plugs on the back side of the machine (usually behind a plastic cover). If you find that you suspect it's option #2, pull the plug that sticks out the furthest. Put your finger over the hole and turn on the heater. You can usually feel positive pressure against your finger if the rotor is ok. If you've got a gauge, it should be anywhere from 4.0-4.8psi depending on the size of the heater. The other 'plug' sets your pump pressure. Rarely have I encountered much more than either of these two. I've had to replace a board once, because the customer liked to pour kerosene all over it. Those are about $100. I usually replace the input and output filters on every machine I service just because no one ever does it, and they're cheap. There really isn't a whole lot too them once you get inside. 1. Check motor. If it runs, go to #2. 2. Check for ignition. You can see it or hear it clicking. If that's good, go to #3. 3. Pump pressure. As described, check to make sure you've got pressure coming from the rotor. If not, it's broke. On the off chance, the vacuum line might be cracked, but it's usually the brittle rotor. 4. If it lights and shuts off, it's a flame sensor. Like I said, there's nothing to them. Parts are MOSTLY the same, with some slight variations.
  10. You can store it in mine, if you'd like.
  11. Ah, forgot you can't do individual-to-individual shipments. I was asking my FFL guy if I could ship the Saigas to Tromix or if I needed to go through him. He told me I could ship direct. Got'em mixed up. Disregard my previous posts.
  12. As always, my thoughts were that the previews made it look much better than it was. Seems to be how all of M. Night Swhatever's movies are.
  13. BTW, as Copperhead said, those forced air heaters are the way to go. I'd recommend a name brand such as Master, Reddy, or DESA since parts are much easier to get for those (if you're not moving it, though, you probably won't need parts). I work on a metric shit-ton of these things in the winter time and have come to know them inside and out. BTW, they also make propane powered versions if you want it to burn cleaner. These are typically 150k units and lower, which would be fine for you. If you go the propane route, you have to be careful with the size tank you run it from. Too small a tank will freeze up rather quickly.
  14. 30k BTU is probably a bit small for a 2 car garage. I'd go atleast 60k, and plan on waiting about 20-30 minutes for it to get comfortable. I've got about twelve 600k BTU units that we rent at work if you wanna try one out. Would heat your garage from below freezing to unbearably hot in about 30 seconds. 8)
  15. And yet here we are. 55 man-filled posts into this thread, and not a single pic of said Babe of the Month. Failure, CR. Failure.
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