TA In Progress

Can’t see the picture, but sounds like an external Torx? You can buy those sockets just about anywhere.

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1049&pictureid=9364

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1049&pictureid=9362

 

Shined up the 26 year old finish with some Meguiars #7.

Dad bought his 2013 new and had not a single one of these problems. It has zero rust or any of these to this day. Maybe it's an owner thing. The 5.0 is straight lol. It feels like "a much better truck" in that it's lazy and lags. What's the eng have to do with rust, a rear defroster, shocks and struts, bumpers, belts, and a parking brake? El. Oh. El. Nothing. That's the answer for inquiring minds.

 

So the guy that agrees with you is an informed owner, and I'm not because I have a differing view? I took OP's question as wanting to know about the entire platform, not just the engine. I was just trying to give (in my opinion) useful feedback from my experience. If OP didn't care to read my comments he could move on.

Had a 2013 FX4 with the 3.5. Probably the worst vehicle I've owned. Rear defroster quit, 3.5 was erratic and laggy, the underside had more rust than an abandoned shipwreck, all 4 shocks and struts leaked and had to be replaced, blend door actuator, both bumpers were repainted due to rust bubbles, noisy belts, parking brake disintegrated. I'm sure I'm forgetting something. This was all on a truck that had less than 60k, and was only 4.5 years old when I got rid of it. I took care of it, kept the salt off of it so there's no excuse for that new of a vehicle to have rust issues. I can only imagine what it looks like now. My brother has a 2016 with the 5.0. I've driven it several times and it feels like a much better truck in every way.

Jim's Trim Shop in Whitehall. Just had one redone by them a few months back and it turned out great. I've done them myself in the past, but for what they charge it wasn't worth it. They also did great on recovering a seat for me several years ago.

Solder. There are several switches on our aircraft that have these.

I'll take it. Sending PM.

13 or newer Acura RDX? My wife has one and she absolutely loves it. Hers is AWD with the Tech package, but even the basic models are well optioned. Has plenty of power with the 3.5 V6.

My dad just had all of the machine work done by them on an engine he's putting together and was very happy with his experience as well. Quick, good pricing and they were honest about what actually needed done. They didn't try to sell him services he didn't need.

Fuck. Idk what I want.

 

I'd love to find a black Ecoboost FX4, 2013-2015 with under 60k miles for under 30k.

 

I don't think those year Ecoboost have the 2.7 though, isn't that a newer engine?

 

I bought a 2013 Ecoboost FX4 Supercrew last April with 30,500

miles for exactly 30k. Truck was spotless and had every option but the tailgate step and tow mirrors. Unless the market is drastically different, I would think you could find that truck, especially considering it's a year later. I did have to drive a few hundred miles to get it. Every similar truck within 100 miles of here was 6-8k higher.

I have interior door sill trim and lower b-pillar trim for both sides that I bought for my 2012 Regal GS. Should fit other models besides a GS. Also have a new ashtray assy. I sold the car before I got them installed, so I no longer need this stuff. Black/Charcoal in color, brand new GM parts. I'm moving and need it gone. I'd rather give it to someone here than deal with Craigslist.

I have a 20" Regal GS wheel/tire that you're more than welcome to borrow and test fit. Bought it as a spare for my GS.

Honda has a TSB for the differential fluid. Not sure if it's your issue since it wasn't at low speeds, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to swap out the fluid if it's not been done. I've always just changed the fluid, drive about 5-10 miles and then change the fluid again.

Has the rear differential fluid ever been changed? They'll make some very loud noise if the fluid needs done. I've dealt with several of them making noise and the fluid has always taken care of it. Always used the Dual Pump fluid from Honda.

Sold my 2012 Regal GS 6mt earlier this year specifically due to the nonexistent back seat. Went from an 01 S8 with a sofa for a back seat to the Regal. I'm 6'1" and nobody could sit behind me. Also, the infotainment/Nav was pretty finnicky. Other than that, I really did like that car. It was a lot of fun for a daily. I had to look for quite awhile to find one that was in excellent shape. Seems like everyone loves to curb those 20's. I paid under 20 for mine over a year ago with 20k on it, so you might be able to find one in your budget without a ton of miles. I did have to go to SC to get it though.

commercial... had issues with spindles, the brackets that hold the deck on was welded so many times that it was nothing but welds. It was slow by today's standards, ate belts, I just hated it.

 

+1 I had a ZF Commercial and it was also junk. Same thing, spindles, belts, and anything that was welded to the deck had a tendency to break off with ease. Replaced it with a 72 inch Hustler Super Z. Couldn't be happier.

all my Audis have/had good reception except 1 b5 S4 the rear defroster messed up statios when it was on.

 

My D2 S8 did the exact same thing.

http://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-JETech%C2%AE-Wireless-Charger-Samsung/dp/B00URUJWPW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1440939606&sr=8-4&keywords=fm+modulator

 

Ended up picking it up...2 day-trips to Cleveland for work, 8+ hours of blasting Spotify in my car, and it's beyond expectations. :thumbup::thumbup: Showed it off at CC&C and the clarity is really great.

 

I bought one for my S8 after reading this and it works quite well. Thanks Clay!

I've replaced countless Hyundai level sensors. You can buy the sensor(s) by itself from the dealer and they aren't terribly expensive. Some of them have 2 level sensors.

Car-part shows Wirthman's having a head as well as a guy in Middletown. No prices listed, but might be worth a call.

I figure we make this thread into a brake-knowledge thread. Cheap as I am, I can't bring myself to buy eBay brakes from PowerSport or BrakeMotive>>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-PERFORMANCE-DRILLED-SLOTTED-BRAKE-ROTORS-AND-CERAMIC-PADS-BMW-325i-/221000420706?fits=Make%3ABMW&hash=item3374a6cd62&vxp=mtr.

 

Went onto RockAuto and priced a cheap but I think reasonable package for aggressive street driving (no real track time, aside from an occasional autoX):

 

Rotors:

RAYBESTOS Part # 96387R {#1096387} 5 Bolt Holes Professional Grade - Rear

RAYBESTOS Part # 96780R {#1096780} 5 Bolt Holes Professional Grade - Front

Pads:

CENTRIC Part # 30105580 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims - Front

CENTRIC Part # 30106920 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims - Rear

 

I like that the rotors are coated on the hat, to hopefully hide rust down the road. Also, with shipping and no 5% discount (which I usually get emailed) it's $144.44 shipped, which is as cheap of a package as I can get.

 

Anyone have experience with Centric ceramics or Raybestos rotors?

 

The Raybestos Professional Grade rotors are not coated. To get the coated hat/edge you have to buy the Advanced Technology rotors. I've used the Adv. Tech rotors along with the Raybestos pads on several of my cars and have always been happy. The coating on the rotors is pretty durable and still looks good even after a few winters.

Ordered, thanks for the heads up!

If your frame currently has the waxy coating on it, Eastwood sells something very similar that I have used on older GM products to touch up areas that were missing.

If the condenser fan is running but the compressor isn't, I'd get a meter and check the amp draw on the compressor. The data tag on the compressor will have a spec for LRA (locked rotor amps). If it is drawing this much current, your compressor is locked up. I'd do this before throwing a bunch of parts at it.

Transfer case? I think there was some issue with the oil pump rubbing the case itself. If the fluid is really low or empty you'll know.