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Very tight back seat.

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I have the exact same heater in my garage and it does work amazingly well. Looks good.

I'm guessing your truck is new enough that it's a Magnum engine. If it is, Marshall's has one with 88,000 miles for $399. There are 3 pages of engines in ohio on car-part.com for less than $1000.

It didn't come with new ones!?

 

I've never seen an inner tie rod come with the bellows (not saying it's impossible). To the OP, if you can wait a few days, Rock Auto has them for $8 or $10 each, depending on whether it has power steering or not.

Anyone have a home-grown recipe for neutralizing rust? Like, alcohol and baking soda mixed together?

 

I don't even need the 5+ step process if someone has just knocked down as much scale as they could and used a good paint/undercoat product with decent, multi-year results before rust came back again...

 

What is the plan for the truck? Year round use, or spring, summer and fall?

 

I had the body off the frame of my 51 Plymouth back in 1993. I degreased everything, cleaned all of the loose rust/scale off the frame and components using a grinder and wire wheels, and then followed up with Rust Oleum rusty metal primer and then topcoated with Rust Oleum satin black. It hasn't rusted again in close to 20 years, but it also never sees salt. It does however get wet from time to time. The nice about using a cheaper product like Rust Oleum is that if you damage the finish, repairing it is as simple as going to any hardware and picking up some paint.

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I can't speak of the other products you've mentioned, but I wouldn't waste my time with POR 15. I've tried it several times following all of the correct steps using their Metal Ready and Marine Clean, only to have the rust come back. It also doesn't stick to metal that isn't super rough. It has to be topcoated if it will seen any sunlight, as UV rays will destroy it. I've heard the Eastwood stuff is better, but I have no personal experience with it. I think overall the best you can do for this truck after you get it cleaned up and painted is to keep it out of the salt. Otherwise, it's going to rust no matter what you do. Hope this helps.

Fix the headlight, flatten out the hood, remove loose portion of bumper cover, and take it in for inspection. Then fix it. They're just making sure that you don't have stolen parts, and it will be much less of an assache if you fix it after it's been inspected. If you do repair it before you take it in, you will definitely need a source vin and a receipt for every used part on the car (even the ones from ebay). New parts just need a receipt. Also, if the used part you are installing has a vin sticker on it, like a fender/hood/door, don't remove it, even if you're removing it to paint the part. They really don't like that. Before photos are always a good idea, as someone else already mentioned.

I don't blame Panasonic. I think they like many companies, especially larger ones have had to cut costs and trim fat in many different ways. A good book to read if you care to know the details is The Panasonic Way. You'll see why the unions were killing them. I used to walk out of their seeing janitors getting out of Caddy's.

 

Longevity bonuses and pensions were killing them too. All the same shit just getting worse in a bad economy. I'm sorry, but if a guy is going to aspire to sweep floors for a living, I don't care if he's put in 20yrs at one company, his job and salary need to be in line with the work being done. Period.

 

 

 

 

You can stop painting the picture that Unions main job is to look out for the publics safety. We all know that's bullshit. They aren't there primarily to insure the labor force has the "proper tools" or that the public is safe. Unions are around to insure workers have better rights, wages and benefits. SB5 wasn't about cutting the equipment the public service depts would get to have to do their job. Again, put a system in place the holds the superiors accountable and they won't have that "fear" to even hold out as a carrot. Make them be accountable for their own performance not just sit around collecting longevity bonuses and using their tenure as a shield.

 

I was more speaking of private sector unions, not so much the state employees unions. I'll be the first to agree that changes need to be made, starting at the top. You come across as having the mindset that all state employees and anyone associated with a union is a shitbag, and I feel that you are way off with that. I certainly don't think you're a dirtbag because I have ran across my share of greasy salesmen. Not all state employees double dip, fuck off all day, pad overtime, etc. I don't feel that everyone should be punished because of the small group the news tells you about. If it's so lucrative to be a state employee, then why aren't you? Both my parents were and my wife is a state employee. None of them ever left/leaves work on time and routinely worked 45-50 hrs. a week with no comp/overtime. My parents didn't get rich, and last time I checked, my wife and I aren't either. None of them worked for the state for the pay, it was for the benefits. There has to be something to attract good employees and that's what did it for them.

 

I'm not going to debate the safety aspect that I brought up with you. I, not you, know what I have seen and dealt with. FWIW, I am not in a union.

I say fuck unions, they aren't needed and I side with companies who are out to break them. When I was at Panasonic, it was cheaper for them to shut down the entire Building #1 in NJ and move into a brand new one in Elgin, IL than it was to keep the 3,000+ union workers in NJ in their current situation. That's fucked up when it's cheaper to shut down and move than to keep what is in place.

 

So they did. All 3,000 people were offered their jobs but they had to move on their own dime to keep it. Guess how many of those "hard working" people did? Less than 100. Good!

 

In this situation, I'd have to blame Panasonic. If the union contract wasn't acceptable and cost Panasonic too much (ie prevented a few from getting even richer), then Panasonic shouldn't have accepted it in the first place. I can probably safely assume the factory in NJ wasn't new and state of the art, and therefore cost more to operate.

 

I feel that unions still have a place in this country, albeit a smaller one than fifty years ago. For example, I can probably assume that when you board an airplane, you'd feel better knowing that the maintenance crew that just replaced the engine 2 hours ago wasn't pressured into cutting corners, using incorrect tools, procedures, etc. just so the plane makes it to the gate on time? I'd rather wait an extra half hour than seen people killed.

Best of luck man, I'm sure it wasn't the easiest decision. I'll be calling you soon for a set of tires for Heather's car.

 

BTW, is Tom coming back?

My 8 months pregnant wife had a nasty persistent cold that wouldn't go away. She went to the doc last week and turned out she had bronchitis.

I met that guy about 10 years ago. He had a bunch of old cars for sale that were visible from 70 out by Zanesville, and my dad and I stopped to look at them. I think it was called T's World. He showed us cars all over his property, but I never recalled seeing any wild animals. IIRC, he had just been released from prison then as well.

My wife's grandmother lives in those condos, which is less than 5 mins from my house.

Their food is pretty good, and they have a decent beer selection. Sucks you can't drink, though.

Does it have that rubber figure eight shaped bushing and bracket on the rear side at the base of the strut? I had a 94 Cutlass Supreme, and I had to compress that figure eight bushing to get the lower strut bolts in. The is a hole through the center of the bushing, and a threaded hole on the lower control arm. I used a piece of all-thread and a nut to compress that bushing.

4x4?

 

It appears to be 2wd. Also, in 91 all 4x4's came with the 4.3.

Not worth the money IMO. You can get a 4wd s10/noma for the same money with way fewer miles.

 

Most 4wd S10's in that price range belong to Billy Bob in BFE, they're 6 different colors, rusty as hell, 4 different wheels and tires, the interior looks like chickens lived in it, etc. I spent a long time looking for one and that's what I found to be the case anyway.

Are the closing costs the same for refi and purchase?

I'm biased towards the S10 and Sonoma, but this seems like a pretty decent truck for the money, although it is an automatic.

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94957

ppg dp90

 

This. Any of the PPG DP primers (the number is the color, and they have several colors). Avoid POR like the plague for anything but heavily pitted/rough metal.

I asked the guy with the 05 if he knew what went wrong. He said his was due to the oil pump wearing a hole in the side, and it was replaced under warranty. Not sure about the 03, haven't seen him tonight.

you guys are thinking of the 2500 transfer cases.

 

Both were 1500 Z71's. One was an '03 and the other an '05. Double checked with them here at work tonight.