SinisterSS

if your going text me, I should be free

not hard to find just expensive as hell

I know we don't have any lying around but if we did they would be expensive

I work for Honda I know what needs to be done and what to look for

issue maybe the stator is bad or going bad, it sits behind the a/c clutch, but another common issue on the older Honda's would be the high pressure switch, seen quit a few of those go bad, and fyi you can't just swap it out, you'll have to evac the system replace it then recharge

that's what they told me when I wanted to exchange for saturday tickets

after they canceled the event we're walking back to the car and this short fat redneck dude with a mullet was stealing race banners that were zip tied to the fences, security chased him caught him and took the banners away then had a little chat with him, guy was pissed it rained out I guess, none the less it was funny to see. I think that was all the racing action we saw today

My cost for factory parts, not including the drive belts. Honda timing belt: $17.02 Honda water pump: $56.39 Honda timing belt tensioner: $71.83 Honda camshaft seal: $3.29 (if needed) Honda valve cover gasket: $7.26 Honda spark plug seals: $3.46ea (if needed) Honda coolant: free since its laying all over the shop

don't be a dick

on that car at the dealership we replace the water pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, accessory drive belts, valve cover gasket w/spark plug seals, coolant and if needed the cam seal due to oil leaking behind the timing cover. don't know how many times people don't wanna replace the cam seal and a few months later the new belt breaks because oil leaked all over it, if you want Paul I can get you a price on factory Honda parts and I can do it on any Saturday morning for $200 but she supplies the parts, she wont need coolant since there's a ton of it laying around the shop

time to stock up

I was at the parts store and R134a went up in price, 1 12oz can is $16.99 a complete conversion kit is now $89.99. I heard the EPA wants to do the same with R134a like they did R12.

100% agreed your timing is off, FYI your timing a 4 cylinder import car not an old school V8 engine. good luck and report back after you re-align everything

maybe, last time I did that I found out I could save 15% on my car insurance. seriously though I'm going up to Norwalk this weekend for the NHRA event so I don't know what's planned when I get back in town

I may stop in with the camaro if nothing else comes up

title of this thread said 2000 civic cx, maybe that's where I'm lost, and to my under standing at the Honda training center they told us all honda engines are an interference engine

you 100% sure it doesn't have a tach? if its an auto car or a manual it should have one, because all the pic's I'm looking at in the honda parts catalog is showing a tach on the left.

when cranking the engine over does the tach bounch a little bit or just sit there and doesn't move at all?

it is an interference engine

I know you said the CEL wasn't on but did you check for codes anyway? a lot of times something will be stored in there

I just don't understand how a coach could teach young kids to play football like that

when it comes to O2 sensors I prefer factory which I think for my car is Delphi

there's a newer yard off 104 and Alum Creek, I think its called "you part it" they have a nice selection of stuff its just like pick-n-pull but their yard is all concrete they also have motorcycles

1st post said the car is all stock crank sensor is not a common issue with Honda/Acura cars.

sounds like its something in the ignition switch, but the common things with older Honda/Acura cars are: 1. electrical portion of the ignition switch 2. main relay 3. coil or igniter. I've never seen a bad TPS on any Honda/Acura car but that doesn't mean it can't fail