Fubar231

Saw you again today as i was heading to school haha, i really like the black wheels on the red. Looks good.

No drama, just curious what i saw and how it happened.

fuck yes no class

Nice snow mound you slid into earlier

I believe roy, burmese434 was looking for a laptop, try giving him a pm. He might pick it up.

This! Run a DDP (Divorced Downpipe) with it dumping the wastegate. Be ready for boost creep though.

i see it turning into a tc

you can really see the floppy hat when hes sayin now you fucked up 100 times lmao bounces back and forth lmao

WHAT, WHAT, WHAT, WHAT, HEY what WHAT! hahaha

Did that sign in the trunk say pussy magnet?

wow that thing is nuts... no intercooler? edit, the damn dyno sparks... ?? what the

it was. what a crazy sound it makes when it explodes though

I think he just wants to make some passes on the new motor/build before the trans goes

Pulling a few things off of supra mania for you Yep...that's what I would do. Run any good quality API rated oil...Valvoline, Shell, and Wal-Mart Super Tech are fine. For the initial run use a Super Tech filter...I'm a believer in the "Hard & Fast" break-in method. You want to make several hard runs to ~4000 rpm...you want to get to that rpm as quickly as possible then let the car coast back down to 10 mph or so (at idle, in gear) to create a good vacuum on the engine. Then do the same thing again...3-4 times should be enough. Take the car home and change the oil/filter before running it again using the same 30W...a Super Tech filter is fine for this too. Run to the 100-200 mile point or so and change the oil again...use the same 30W or a 10W-30 dino oil and a PureOne or Wix filter. Run to the 1500 mile point and switch to a good syn oil...stick with the Wix or PureOne filters from then on. Yep, the 1st 20 miles is critical...you will not be able to get the oil up to ops temp in time to make this. Just so long you have good pressure, you should be fine. You can do additional passes if you want to make "absolutely sure"...3-4 runs to ~4000 rpm through all the gears should be adequate though. You do want to downshift during the deceleration to keep the vacuum up on the motor...that's a good point http://www.supramania.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif After your runs and you change the oil/filter, that's when you want to keep the rpm/speed varied up through the 500 mile point...after then, you can drive normally, but I would avoid WOT runs till 1500 miles. Yep...take it hard up to 4000+ rpm with agressive up shifts. Then let off throttle to idle and down shift to keep rpm at 2500-3000 rpm and let it coast down mph wise through 2nd gear. Repeat as necessary http://www.supramania.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif 1) Straight 30W motor oil does not contain the amount of additives a multi-grade does, notability anti-wear and film thickness modifiers. This actually provides more base oil by volume in a bottle. 2) Everything I have read says to use a straight 30W on older era motors (like the 7M). It allows wear to take place to properly seat the rings. Newer (especially high performance) motors come from the factory with a syn oil fill...these engines have closer tolerances than those of the past. You have to decide what you want to go with. 3) Straight 30W is very good at dissolving assembly lube. 4) It's cheap...you're going to do a couple oil changes in the 1st 1,500 miles. Why use anything else. While your at it, grab a couple SuperTech filters at WalMart...pretty good filter, especially for as long as they will be on the car. Castrol 30 HD is an API SM service oil...it well exceeds the oils originally spec'ed for the 7M. It will be fine. This is the information in the "Preoper Engine Break-in Oil and When to Switch to Synthetic Oil" sticky on supramania Hope it helps thorne

http://i45.tinypic.com/14xgcnq.jpg

http://gamersyndrome.com/2010/ps3/care-package-fix-coming/ and for those who dont want to read

pedobear hahaha

lol norm, of course thats what your paying attention too.

you guys see the part where the dude got a rpg in his groin? jesus...

im going to agree with menace, screw all you awd drivers. supra fail.

Lease a 335i 6speed manual 4 door. Twin turbo, 6 speed 4 door bimmer. Sweet ass cars.

Old but hailarious

Yeah i did see how no one responded to it. How do you have your oil psi gauge hooked up? Did you use your stock location or do you have a oil filter sandwich plate you got it probe'd in at.

Could the temp difference of been where you had the probes located? Or did the standalone and gauge read off the same probe.

Thats how it is with the MKIV's. Not the MKIII supras.