POS VETT

Wheeeeeee

Andy, I'm so sorry to read this news. I'm glad Yasmin is ok.

None of the neo-classics can be considered "good-looking"; most of them have a modern "mid-section" that doesn't flow well with their overall styling.

Says you.

My lawn mower has more torque than that.

Wheeee

The part I like the most is the giraffe.

I may not be a good example for this since I either don't use them or use them very sparingly; wiper blades on my cars are replaced due to dry rot instead of wear. However, like tires, if you depended on them during a drive in rain-snow-sleet, I'd replace them before the weather got I to that pattern. Changing blades Iin the bitter cold when things are frozen really sucks. I have my own favorite brand and model, but whatever brand and model you choose, look into using oversized ones. In order to determine which over sizes you need, look at the wipe pattern and measure the distance between the top curve and the windshield edge. You want to leave a small area for clearance. For example, the OEM size is 20" and after measurement there is a 2.5" clearance between the top curve and the windshield edge. You can go 2" oversize on top and usually the bottom curve have plenty of clearance so you don't have to worry about it. In order to cover the 2" on top, you get a 24" blade. This will give you a wider wiped area. Make sure that oversized blade doesn't interfere the other during operation (watch their movements). If you need help, let me know; it's easier to show it in person.

I do the same things for the hibernating cars every winter. All my cars have enough "finish enhancer" year long, so they don't get additional treatment at the beginning of the hibernation period. At some years, the car stored on the lift would need an oil change for the next season, so that one would get an "extended drain and drip" period as oil wouldn't be replenished until the end. The one car wearing "more sensitive tires" also gets to park on specialized rubber pads to prevent flat spotting. Their fuel tanks are topped off and packed in to minimize air space inside the tanks which minimizes moisture condensation. No fuel stabilizer used. All hibernating cars have float chargers hooked up. This time around might be a bit different. Julius gave me some rather expensive wax and three cars already have a fresh coat. I might apply it to the rest. Two cars need oil change, so one would need to be done soon and the other would happen while on the lift.

Inb4tla

Not my cup of tea.

Is that why Detroit is currently in the state of ruin?

Anyone know someone that will take it out of there for me cheap? The wife said the Gecal 50 was a no go in town and I'd rather not end up with rabies. Any help is appreciated!

Am I?

Kewl. Sorry, can't help with any headphone; I got none.

A diesel-cycle engine has no external ignition source which can be foiled by moisture. A diesel engine will stay running completely submerged underwater as long as air intake and exhaust are above water. It's not even mandatory for exhaust to be placed above water, but it helps. If you noticed, the driver seems experienced about this. He knew where the air intake and the tail pipe were located. Now, pay attention how the whole rig was kept at a certain, very steady speed. See the wake in front of the truck? The driver kept this wake in front of the radiator grille; the rig speed is not faster and not slower than the wake. It keeps the water from "entering" the engine bay and, in turn, keeps the speed steady. In order to maintain this speed in the water, the engine needs to produce more power; the reason why the exhaust gas was visible, turbocharger was at work. The speculation part of this process is the depth. He might have watched another vehicle going by and was able to judge the depth. The driver was also taking another risk with the surface condition of the bottom. Debris, mud, and other factors might keep the rig from maintaining that speed. I hope his rig axles, transmission, and other lubricated parts are all watertight.

I'm with you

There are those in sales, but there is no Ford tech on this board. I found out when I wanted TracKey installed.

Shrivel and dying.

The click at the front wheel is wheel bearing-hub assembly. I'm unsure about the failure mechanism creating the noise.

Whew, good thing I have not a FB account and I will continue to resist having one.

BRILLIANT!

Was the frame sanded/blasted before rust protector application?

Wonder what the lease terms are on one of those ELR.

50/50? I think your show-up rate hovers around 1% ...