Toph6888

Seats sold. Only things left are the blue and red couplers, the 3.5" aluminum tubing, mufflers and brake stuff.

Wheels and tires sold.

Gauge Pod Sold Lightning maf/adapter sold

Gauge pod pending. Tbolts clamps, 3"-3.5", and 3"-4" coupler sold.

$40? Its so light it really doesn't cost anything to ship it. I have had a couple people on other forums interested in it too, first to pay gets the goods lol.

Gauge pod (note, this is for 99-00 with the defrost button under the light switch.) I also have a front set of v6/gt calipers that if you want you can have for free if you come get them or pay for shipping.

Hello everyone, know that my project is coming to a close its time to sell off my extra parts. Everything can be shipped except the seats/wheels, they just aren't worth the money to ship. Prices are OBO, feel free to offer, worst is I say no. Local Pickup (Columbus Ohio): 2000 mustang charcoal front seats (driver powered) : $75 picked up (can meet within reasonable distance) 2000 mustang 5 lug wheels with tires: $75 picked up (can meet within reasonable distance) Shipping Items: Lightning MAF (brand new never used, only opened): $50 shipped 90MM air filter adapter: $10 shipped ($5 if purchased with Lightning MAF) 2000 mustang master cylinder/vacuum brake booster/pedal: $20 picked up, $30 shipped Flowmaster 40's mufflers (2.25"): $20 picked up, $40 shipped 99-00 Autometer Dual Dash gauge pod: $45 shipped (2) 3.5" id 90* aluminum intercooler piping: $10 shipped each, $15 shipped together if you buy both. Miscellaneous couplers (prices are shipped): All couplers are reinforced, also have some Tbolt clamps. (2) 3" 90* elbow couplers $3 each (2) 3" to 3.5" adapters $4 each (1) 3.5" coupler $4 each (1) 4" to 3" coupler $4 each (1) 4" to 3.5" coupler $4 each (4) 3.5" Turbonetics Tbolt clamp $3 each (2) 4" turbonetics tbolt clamp $3 each Pictures: Seats: no tears, charcoal, very good shape. Wheels/tires: good for winter wheels, tires are about done but have a bit of life left in them. Brake booster: has the pedal with it that bolts up to the brake/clutch pedal assembly, this pedal is needed so that you can connect the booster up to the pedal. Exhaust: These mufflers were on my car for about 10k miles, nothing wrong with them, I just had to get different mufflers when I went IRS. All the small stuff: MAF/Adapter flange All the couplers:

Looking to hit the 400rwhp mark and 380rwtq with having the engine broken in a bit more and my boost leak figured out.

Finally had a nice day so I rolled the mustang out to take care of some odds and ends. Finally got my aluminum BOV flange welded onto its new pipe and got my new intercooler on today. the intercooler routed this way let me cut out about 2.5-3ft of piping, which is about one full displacement of my engine (210-250cuin, my engine with the bore is 236cuin). So hopefully that will help to cut my spool time down. Guy from work tig welded this on for me: Finished set up The other thing I did was redo all the gauge wiring from the engine bay to the interior by redoing the hole in the firewall and putting a better grommet in then what I had before (it was too small). I also got the wideband/boost controller onto the a pillar. Went to the pillar because the mount by the wheel had them too low for me to really see them while I was driving. Was able to tuck the wires a lot easier then I though it would be. I am just waiting to get to the store tomorrow to go get some zip ties to make sure none of the wires drop down by my feet while I am driving to have it all done. Need to get an 01-04 throttle cable to put on my larger 70mm throttle body, will be getting new 60lb fuel injectors and a cobra tank in the summer to keep my fuel system duty cycles down. Right now at my high boost (12psi) I end up maxing them out, so I would rather not push it haha.

Finally had a nice day so I rolled the mustang out to take care of some odds and ends. Finally got my aluminum BOV flange welded onto its new pipe and got my new intercooler on today. the intercooler routed this way let me cut out about 2.5-3ft of piping, which is about one full displacement of my engine (210-250cuin, my engine with the bore is 236cuin). So hopefully that will help to cut my spool time down. Guy from work tig welded this on for me: Finished set up The other thing I did was redo all the gauge wiring from the engine bay to the interior by redoing the hole in the firewall and putting a better grommet in then what I had before (it was too small). I also got the wideband/boost controller onto the a pillar. Went to the pillar because the mount by the wheel had them too low for me to really see them while I was driving. Was able to tuck the wires a lot easier then I though it would be. I am just waiting to get to the store tomorrow to go get some zip ties to make sure none of the wires drop down by my feet while I am driving to have it all done. Need to get an 01-04 throttle cable to put on my larger 70mm throttle body, will be getting new 60lb fuel injectors and a cobra tank in the summer to keep my fuel system duty cycles down. Right now at my high boost (12psi) I end up maxing them out, so I would rather not push it haha.

I have a BOV flange I need welded onto some aluminum tubing, I was wondering if anyone could suggest a shop to take it to or if there was someone interested in making a bit of cash on the side.

Doing a couple little things during the winter months. First off I bought a different intercooler because I wanted to cut out some charge piping. Going to the same side enter/exit cuts out about 2ft of piping. I am also going to get the advantage tuning software from sct so I can tune the maf for a 3" pipe and get rid of the 2ft of 3.5" in front of my maf. With those two changes, I cut out 230ish cu inches on my charge piping volume, which is a full displacement of teh engine, so the turbo should kick on sooner in the rpms. The other advantage is now the cooler is a 2pass heat exchanger, so it will cool more efficiently, but it also has a big 180 but the cooler is rated for 0.5psi of drop at 15psi from entrance to exit so hopefully it shouldn't be too bad. Second, I got a new throttle body from v6procharged. 70mm BBK. Should open it up a bit since it should be the restriction point now after the porting on the heads/intakes with the cam. Another small thing is that I am going to a pillar gauge for my boost controller/gauge and my Wideband. I really liked having it down by the steering wheel so that people wouldn't see the gauges when I was just cruising down the highway, but I also couldn't see the afr gauge that well when I would start getting into the throttle, so up they go. Being able to see if my car leans out is more important then ignoring some people gawking at the gauges on the highway. The only other things is I got a cobra fuel hat/fuel pumps, and I am going to be buying a new cobra tank with the baffles. All in all I will have $400 in it, but I'll sell my old pump once I get through the tuning. Whoo dual pumps and fuel system that supports 500whp on cobras (with the big supercharger so it should support more on my turbo set up) I also have some 60lb injectors on the way. Good bye tax refund haha.

So I am working on trying to find where all my power draws are coming from. Right now with everything off I am pulling 250millamps, ten times what I should. When I pull the 10A red fuse from the Audio location, I drop to about 120milliamps. I tried checking every other fuse, and no go. I am thinking there is something wrong with my batter relocation wiring. I think my battery is bad too, but idk. I took it to autozone, they charged it and said it tested fine. I put it in the car, took about ten-twenty mins to get the car off jackstands, and then tried to start it and there was zero cranking power. Here is a diagram of how I have the battery relocation set up, if anyone could look over the wiring and tell me if I have a problem I would appreciate it. As soon as the starter actually cranks, teh engine fires right up and I am able to drive wherever with no problems and everything works fine. After i got the car started tonight I took it out and ran a datalog with a couple pulls. I have the boost controller set for 7.5psi, and I am getting to 90% duty 1cycle with this pump, and at this boost i'm only around the 280-300rwhp range. So idk why its doing what it is. I guess I am going to have to take the pump back out and test to see if it is flowing what its supposed to, and then if its not right either put in a new pump or go return style fuel system. I was looking at my x and y fuel pump inputs for voltage, and it looks like the pump is only seeing up to 7 volts, does this sound correct? Here is a chart of the fuel pump duty cycle and the fuel pump voltage

Did a couple little things the other day. First up I got a 3bar GM map sensor so that I can datalog my boost using the map as an analog input on my sct x3. Got the sensor and the plug for it off of rock auto for around $75. Plus in the future if I decide to go to a standalone EMS I can use the map for a speed density set up instead of maf if I want. First step, find extra aluminum from excess piping in my intercooler charge piping kit Then I just cut the tubing, hammered it flat, and marked up a template for the mount. Had to make two mounts because I messed up the first, but whatever haha. Not exactly pretty or perfectly straight, but it should work just fine. I just need to grab the 5V source and ground from the EGR connector, and then run the signal wire into the engine bay and connect up to my firewire cable that I use for datalogging my AFR off of my AEM wideband. Second thing I did was to drop the tank to replace the line between the fuel pump and the fuel hat. We were pegging the fuel pump at 12psi boost and 350rwhp which this pump should do just fine. We were also getting around 45-50% duty cycle on the pump at idle, which seems extremely high for this vehicle. We figured there was a hole in the line, and its easy enough to drop the tank and replace. Prob took us about 1.5hrs taking our time. To drop the tank it was probably 20-30mins. Old stuff out New stuff in I haven't gotten a chance to datalog the new pump duty cycle bc my battery keeps dying from all this cold. I will hopefully get a chance to do that tonight/tomorrow once the battery is charged. If this doesn't fix the fuel issues, I'm just gonna say fuck it and put in a return style system. I can get a fuel rail off of a 94-97 msutang and modify it to fit or just modify my current one and run the new line back to the tank, and adapt the hat to work. Just a matter of how much time I really want to put into this stupid fuel system lol.

PM'd.

Hey Everyone, looking to sell a couple of parts that I am going to upgrade. First up, CX Racing Intercooler. Because I have my turbo and tb on the passenger side, I am going to go to an intercooler with the inlet/outlet on the same side to cut down on my charge piping. Its only got about 100miles on it. 3" x 24" x 12" core, 3" x 31" x 12" size, 3" inlet/outlet. Bar and Plate Intercooler $60 + S/H (prefer local to Columbus Ohio but I can work on getting shipping figured out). Next, two MAF sensors. I have a lightning maf with a 90mm housing and filter adapter. The second is a SCT BA2400 MAF with a 3" housing. I am selling because I got a good deal on an HPX slot meter and going with that. The lightning doesn't have any miles on it, bought it originally and never used it. SCT BA2400 I have is used, but still reads well (what is currently on the car). $60 shipped for the Lightning, $70 with the filter adapter $165 shipped for the SCT BA2400 BA2400 on left, Lightning on right. Note, the BA2400 does fit in the lightning maf, so if you are pegging your lightning maf, you can plug the BA2400 right into the lightning housing.

You know I have started looking more into this, and thought it would be a lot of work, but because mine is an even firing engine it actually would be pretty simple with this. The way my turbo piping is set up, right now I am leaning to potentially making another merge pipe for a t3, and having the option between either the small turbo or the big turbo. Going with this thought, I might go for a divided t3/t4 turbo with a large A/r on the turbine so that I can keep the high end but also add a lot down low. Thanks for the thoughts.

I got my obd connector and holder for my tablet so I tried them out while going to get dinner tonight. Worked pretty well, and the gauges lit right up with info from the ecu. Pretty cool little app. It is a touch laggy, maybe half a second, but hey for a $5 app and $15 adapter I'll take that being able to put it in any car and it just starts right up, not to mention can read any trouble codes. I got a cheap mount off of amazon so that I can just mount the tablet to the dash. Here is what it looks like in the mustang: Tomorrow it will be hopefully warm enough to take the mustang out so that I can see what my o2 sensors and STFT's are doing, and hopefully be able to see if there is anything I can do to calm them down. Other news, I finally found all the info on my turbo today (inducer/exducers/trims) so I don't have to take it off and measure, and I think that if I were to go to a different turbo it would definitly be a t3 instead of a t4. I just want more power down low then I do up high. It would be pretty easy to rig up. I can make a new merge pipe that adapts to my current crossover pipes and set it up to fit right up with my current dump pipe, that way if I ever want to switch turbos I can just swap mergepipes/turbos/tune and I don't have to mess with adjusting everything else. So probably around $100 for a new merge pipe, find a used t3 for around $300-500, and the tune should be close enough to where a couple datalogs and email tunes will have it figured out. Maybe in the summer I will try that. Need to just put some miles on the car in the spring and see if its something I really want to move forward on lol. Curse you winter and not letting me drive my car!

Been working on cleaning up a couple of little things on the mustang. Replaced one of the o2 sensors, still need to replace the other. Getting better results with them. Also tried out the air straightener. Initially it seems to help a bit, but I need to be able to actually take the car out on some longer drives so the car can adjust itself to it, not to mention I need more datalogs to make sure its not gonna mess with my AFR in boost. I decided to give this little thing a try (its on order and hopefully gets here soon haha) http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31yLqeR4o3L.jpg Along with a new tablet that I got for xmas and a program called torque Its obviously not as good as datalogging with the sct, but I figured I would try it for the low price and the ease of mounting a tablet and adjustable gauges. I like this option for just driving around if I just want to keep an eye on things, vs datalogging wiht the laptop and the handheld and all the cables in the way that can only log for about 10mins before the file gets too big and I have to stop, save the file, and start a new file. To my knowledge I haven't found a view parameters set up within livelink, so I figured this would work fine. Not to mention the ability to use it with other vehicles too. Other then that, I got my new wastegate spring, haven't put it in yet though lol. Only other thing is thinking of going to a smaller turbo. I'm thinking of the classic gt3582R with a T4 flange 0.68 turbine A/R. Thinking this because I want something a little bit smaller so it spools up quicker. right now I don't really hit boost till 3000rpms, and I would like to hit boost sooner (around 2300-2600rpms) and I don't need top end power because I only really drive it on the street, and if need be I can have both turbos and run whichever I want because they both bolt up the same. Ahh projects never end haha.

Here the back to back runs on the 5psi, before and after moving the reference point. As you can see from the boost log, the boost held a bit higher and was more consistent at higher rpm (didn't drop off as much) so I feel its safe to assume the extra bit of boost was where the extra power came from. Thanks I appreciate it. I've been able to get it out ever now and then when the weather is above 35 or 40 degrees and dry out and its been doing well. Just driving it around to get the gas out of the tank so that I can drop it to hopefully fix my high pump duty cycle so that it doesnt choke out at high rpms/boost. The pump is supposed to be a 310lph pump, so it should flow way more then I would be able to get out of the 6 39lb cobra injectors.

Ordered one of these tonight to put into my intake piping before the maf to help even out the air flow: http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html Essentially it just glues into the intake and directs the airflow into a straight pattern. Apparently a lot of GM guys use them. Should help get rid of the noise I am seeing at the MAF. I am also goign to trade in my O2 sensors that I bought new and I feel got clogged up from running the car so lean when I first started it. Gotta love advance auto warranty. Hopefully that with the maf air straightener will even everything out and give the car a super smooth idle. Also I got all the fuel line that I need to drop the tank out and replace the line in teh tank, so maybe that will get done here so I can get one really good drive in before the winter. Every time I drive it I just get super paranoid and start hearing fake noises haha.

Brian and I were able to meet up today to finally get my project car finished and everything went very smoothly. Made good numbers for what I was looking for, and nothing blew up, so it was a good day. Thanks for the tuning Brian, I'll be back in the spring once I get a couple other things adjusted. 12psi 353rwhp 370rwtq

First off a big shout out to Brian at Dynotunemotorsports for all his help with getting this car running and for doing the dyno tuning. Things went really well today and I will be going back for any other tuning needs. Got it on the dyno today, went very smoothly. Only had one run where a coupler blew off, and other then that nothing went really wrong. Put a tune on the car, ran to 3.5k, was really good, ran to 5800, was doing great. Only made a couple adjustments over the entire day. Initial 5psi video (wastegate referenced off of the charge piping) 243rwhp 253rwtq Best 5psi video (wastegate reference off of the intake manifold) 267rwhp 270rwtq. Made quite the difference Made a couple other adjustments, and ended up with this as the biggest pull of the day at 12psi. (about 15-16degrees of timing) 353rwhp 370rwtq Dyno graph Max power was 353rwhp, 370rwtq, and this is with a "12psi" run (The tuner suggested I get a bigger spring for the wastegate because as you can see peak pressure is 12psi, but after 4.5k rpms it drops to around 8. So the boost controller isn't keeping it at peak boost). One issue we ran into was with the fuel pump which is an aviator 310lph fuel pump. We were maxing out its duty cycle, which shouldn't have been a problem. The tuner noticed that the duty cycle of the pump just at idle was around 30-40%, which it should be below 10, so his thoughts are that in the tank I have a leak in one of my hoses. So I will have to drop the tank to put a new line in it, no big deal. The other issue we were having was with holding boost through the whole rpm range. I would hit peak, but then after 4500rpms it would drop a couple psi, and the tuner suggested that I should put a bigger spring in the wastegate so that I have a higher starting point, and the boost controller should do better from there. All in all I am pumped about how smoothly everything went and no real issues. Idle is still slightly rough just because of the maf and having the piping the way it is. Brian (the tuner) suggested an Abacope mass air meter since it has 4 sensors and averages them to give a much clearer signal. Over the winter the plans are to get the fuel pump figured out, potentially get a different maf, and if money still allows step up to the 60lb injectors. That should put me pretty much where I want to be. I didn't quite hit my 400rwtq target, but nothing came apart and im only 30ftlbs away, which once I get the other stuff squared away I should be able to hit that pretty easily.

First off a big shout out to Brian at Dynotunemotorsports for all his help with getting this car running and for doing the dyno tuning. Things went really well today and I will be going back for any other tuning needs. Got it on the dyno today, went very smoothly. Only had one run where a coupler blew off, and other then that nothing went really wrong. Put a tune on the car, ran to 3.5k, was really good, ran to 5800, was doing great. Only made a couple adjustments over the entire day. Initial 5psi video (wastegate referenced off of the charge piping) 243rwhp 253rwtq Best 5psi video (wastegate reference off of the intake manifold) 267rwhp 270rwtq. Made quite the difference Made a couple other adjustments, and ended up with this as the biggest pull of the day at 12psi. (about 15-16degrees of timing) 353rwtq 370rwhp Dyno graph Max power was 353rwhp, 370rwtq, and this is with a "12psi" run (The tuner suggested I get a bigger spring for the wastegate because as you can see peak pressure is 12psi, but after 4.5k rpms it drops to around 8. So the boost controller isn't keeping it at peak boost). One issue we ran into was with the fuel pump which is an aviator 310lph fuel pump. We were maxing out its duty cycle, which shouldn't have been a problem. The tuner noticed that the duty cycle of the pump just at idle was around 30-40%, which it should be below 10, so his thoughts are that in the tank I have a leak in one of my hoses. So I will have to drop the tank to put a new line in it, no big deal. The other issue we were having was with holding boost through the whole rpm range. I would hit peak, but then after 4500rpms it would drop a couple psi, and the tuner suggested that I should put a bigger spring in the wastegate so that I have a higher starting point, and the boost controller should do better from there. All in all I am pumped about how smoothly everything went and no real issues. Idle is still slightly rough just because of the maf and having the piping the way it is. Brian (the tuner) suggested an Abacope mass air meter since it has 4 sensors and averages them to give a much clearer signal. Over the winter the plans are to get the fuel pump figured out, potentially get a different maf, and if money still allows step up to the 60lb injectors. That should put me pretty much where I want to be. I didn't quite hit my 400rwtq target, but nothing came apart and im only 30ftlbs away, which once I get the other stuff squared away I should be able to hit that pretty easily.

Well, I took my car out on some roads today, felt good to finally get it out. 3rd is still a little loud, but whatever, it runs and doesn't feel like its slipping at all, and I've heard that gforce gears are loud in 3rd and 5th. 1st and 2nd have a very slight hum, 4th is silent. But it works so we will see what happens. Clutch is still getting broken in, and the rings are still working on seating, but I was able to do a couple 1/4 throttle pulls to about 40-45mph and then let the car idle back down on the engine and that helped quiet the engine a lot to help settle the rings. Only thing I need to do is try to reroute my oil feed line for my turbo, the line is pretty close to my exhaust picking up a little bit of heat from it, so I want to shield it and rearrage it so the oil can stay colder for it. Finally some videos, first another idle video and then a quick driving video, I need to find someway to set up my phone in the car so I can drive and record, not one or the other. BTW My dyno date is set up for next friday 11/22. Taking all bets on rwhp/tq numbers.