Toph6888

Interested to hear others opinions on using fuel cut or spark cut as a 2 step/launch control. First off, definitions because some people seem to get these confused: Anti-lag: Retarding the spark timing so far past top dead center that you are burning the air/fuel in the exhaust to create full boost and flames out the tailpipes. 2Step/Launch control: creating a 2nd rev limiter to launch from that does not change ignition timing. This just allows the rpms to be held at a certain point and the throttle to be held to the floor. While Anti-lag is a form of launch control, it is not what I am interested in discussing. So how to create the 2 step. There are two main methods, either fuel cut or spark cut. Fuel Cut: The ecu will only inject enough fueling during certain pulses to maintain a set rpm. Ignition still tries to ignite, but if there isn't fuel (or extremely low levels of fuel, far beyond what we would consider a "lean burn" condition, look up lower explosive limit). Spark cut: all the fuel is still injected, but the ecu will just not command a spark during some combustion timings so as to control the rpm at a set point. Most "launch control/flat foot shift" options from OEM's use fuel cut due to ease of control. On my mustang I have a N2MB box that uses spark cut because I didn't want to use fuel cut because I was concerned about "lean burn" conditions leading to knocking/detonation. The issue with the spark cut is that there is a lot of fuel in the system that can lead to backfires and as well as wet the cylinder walls with fuel lowering oiling performance of the piston rings. However, I personally still lean towards spark cut because I worry about the transition time from fuel cut to the actual movement of the car and the time it takes the engine to go back to full operation, potentially causing knocking/detonation during this transition due to lean burn. Interested in CR's thoughts (constructive please, don't flame) on spark vs. fuel cut for a 2 step/launch control feature.

Selling my gs500f, it was a great starter bike and runs great. Only reason I am selling is I just don't have the time to ride it anymore and its taking up space in the garage. Priced to sell, also have some riding gear if you are close to the same size (2XL Jonny Rocket jacket, Alpine star boots, leather gloves, etc) to help with the sale. Bike has a fresh oil change, new fuel jets in the carbs since the stock is so lean you had to leave the choke on for about 20mins before it would run, now its about 1-2 mins on the choke and then runs great wtihout it. Also has a K&N air filter, Katana 750 adjustable rear shock, and I also have new front springs for the front forks, just never got around to installing them. I never layed it down in the 2yrs I had it, but someone before me did. Some typical cracks on some of the plastics, a small dent in the fuel tank and some scrapes on some of the case covers, but hey, its a starter bike. I have had absolutely zero mechanical issues with this bike (theres not much to go wrong, its air cooled and carbeurated). Pulled my 250lbs just fine. Pretty much available whenever to view it. craigslist ad/photos: http://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/5463498675.html Let me know if you want more photos/details

Sold.

Looks good. One question, that turbo looks pretty low. Does your oil return actually make it to the pan without having any kinks/uphill sections in it?

What brand are the tires? When I was working in Akron at a tire research site we had a lot of tires that we would scan the profile of to show low/high spots to see how truely round they were. Michelins, Bridgestones and some other tires were usually always pretty good, but there were a lot of cheaper tire brands and some good year tires (depending on plant) that were significantly out of round with a lot of low and high spots.

I have the sena on my motorcycle helmet, I've liked it and people have said they have been able to understand me clearly even when I am riding on the interstate with all the wind noise. Fits up neatly in the helmet and the charge lasts pretty long. I would usually use mine during the week (30-40mins one way to work) for a good 4-5 days before I would have to charge it. Controls for it are decent, and using iphone the center button lets you use siri to so you can voice command your way through the phone pretty easily. I've been really happy with it.

Because then I wouldn't have bought a 2014 WRX to replace it :dumb:

Ya, the majority are. The only Subaru model that I know of that isn't awd is the BRZ.

Price Drop for CR $6000 OBO.

Selling my 2005 Subaru Outback because I have too many cars and unfortunately need to let one go. I'd love to keep it, but gf is really pushing for that ring lol. Price is $6500 OBO $6000 OBO. Under body is extremely clean and everything works (minus the driver side seat heater, part is $85-100 from subaru but the car heats up so quick it hasn't bothered me). Back story: My brother had been driving this and making payments to me, but then he blew up the original motor by not putting oil in it, he had it for all of 6 months :fuuuu: I purchased a motor off of craigslist and rebuilt the whole thing. Heads machined (decked, valves cleaned, valve seats machined, reassembled) and the block (100k mileage) was deck checked and it was square (couldn't even fit a 0.001" feeler gauge under the straight edge), no marring on cylinder walls, no issues with oil pump after removal/inspection. Rebuilt with Felpro permatorque head gaskets, new head bolts, new valve cover gaskets, new spark plugs, new oil pan gasket, new intake manifold gasket, new exhaust gasket, new timing belt / pulleys / tensioner, new water pump. Car fired right up first try after install. Engine Installed at 180,0XX so it has roughly 300-400 miles on it. I will keep driving it for the time being, but haven't had any issues with it. Car also has new shocks on all four corners, newer (< 15k miles) bridgestone serenity plus all season tires (9.5-10/32nds tread depth) on stock alloy rims. Also comes with a set of bridgestone blizzak tires on 16" steel wheels (10/32nds tread depth) and newer subaru genuine front half shafts (<30k miles, replaced due to cv boots blowing). More details in the craigslist ad listed below. If you have any questions or want to see more pictures I have over 80 to share, so let me know what you would want to see. http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5444298124.html

sold

Bump.

I had a hard choice between the 2005 sti and the 2014 wrx that I ended up getting. Looks like a solid car, nice pick up. Let me know if you need a hand with anything, based on your aparments I'm pretty sure I am in the same complex and I have some of the bigger tools if you need a hand with anything.

For the tires you can measure your current tread depth (take an average across all the treads/tires) and then call tire rack and they can sell you one new tire that they can "shave down" to your current tread depth. It sucks having to pay full price for a tire that is essentially worn already, but its better than buying 4 new tires.

So the last event will be Saturday, September 17th? Usually UFO is on Sundays so just checking to see if typo or not.

$200 obo

Did someone say turbo 6? In all honesty though, WRX/STI are affordable for that price range and make good power with basic bolt ons. If you start looking for a lot of power on top youre gonna have to do forged pistons though. The 2 or 3 series with the turbo 4/6 would be good as well. If you are wanting to get into something more hands on with modding, an old E30 with a turbo would be good. Sticking with a 6 cylinder is tough. Most stuff is either v8 or turbo 4, not a lot of examples of nice 6's anymore.

Bought this for my car and decided to go a different direction. Let me know if you are interested in it, its in good shape and comes with the heat wrap. Invidia divorced catless downpipe. Asking $215 + shipping (or just pick up). http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/AsgAAOSwnH1WYccL/s-l1600.jpg http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/YTcAAOSwv-NWYccr/s-l1600.jpg http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PdkAAOSwAKxWYcdK/s-l1600.jpg

damn. offset is just a bit too much for my car. If they were the same wheels with the 22mm offset I would be all over them. GLWS.

Before I got all my tools I had the stock clutch in the mustang done at A Team transmission off of 161 by 71. They did quick work and when I asked them to check out the car after install due to a noise they had no complaint to recheck everything (ended up being completely unrelated to the transmission, but they still looked into it no questions asked to make sure they did it right). I would go back again if I didn't have time to do it myself.

Honestly, pulling the engine/trans was actually a lot easier then I thought it would be (especially compared to the mustang that you have to go up and over the radiator support, where this can come straight out). Biggest pain in the ass is the AC lines come around the entire front of the engine and there isn't enough play in the lines to get the engine and trans out over top of it so they have to be disconnected. Went to BMW to get the part I needed today, a lock ring for the end of the drivers side halfshaft. And of course, even though it has the right part number on the bag, it looks nothing like what is needed. I need this: http://new.minimania.com/images_temp/800600001g2nmd3012.jpg And they gave me this: So now I will have to wait for the part to come in from an online store that has the correct part picture/application. Damn you BMW!!! Mini won't make it to the Buckeye Miata club drive around hocking hills this weekend but we will at least be there in the WRX.

Fourth Day ~4 hrs Nothing to exciting at this point, just a matter of getting everything put back on. Got the little bits buttoned up under the engine and all the mounts secured and passenger axle back in the car. Driver axle needs a new circlip that will be here tomorrow (mini manual says it HAS to be replaced, and while probably not, its not worth it to me to try to save the $10 vs getting into this whole thing again). Pretty much buttoned up and ready for fluids/test before we put the bumper back on. Got some new rotors/ebc red pads to go onto the car as well, so she should hopefully be pretty good for a while in terms of maintenance on this thing. Should have everything done and this thing back on the road tomorrow mid day. All in all about 20hrs of time into this thing, which having never worked on them before I figure isn't too bad for tearing the whole drivetrain out and putting it back in. Just waiting till we start hearing the eventual ticking from the engine that will say its time for a timing chain replacement that requires a $200 tool to hold the variable camshafts in place.

Third day/evening ~7hrs Got the engine up onto my engine stand so that I could replace the oil pan gasket. It had a small leak on it so it was well worth getting it fixed up since the motor was out anyways. New gasket on Then started putting on the new bits. We decided to go with a solid mass flywheel so in the future we can have it turned. It was also about $300 cheaper than the stock Dual Mass flywheel (still was $500 though....) Then on went the new clutch (the alignment tool didn't fit the crank, so that was annoying, but I was able to measure and keep the disk centered up when putting on the pressure plate so that we were able to get the transmission back on easy enough). Then got the transmission/starter back onto the engine. Then my girlfriend went out to get us some dinner, so my friend and I started to maneuver the engine/trans towards the car and wait for her to get back, but then said screw it and lifted it up. It slid in super easy, about 10 mins to get it back in between the frame rails on the engine/trans mounts.

Second evening ~4hrs Didn't get a lot of photos here, but pretty much cleared off the rest of the little bits (heater hoses, shifter cables, exhaust vband, computer, etc etc) to get to where the only thing connecting the engine/trans were the mounts. The engine and trans mounts are directly on the super low frame rails, and then there is one torque arm under the engine. I had purchased an engine hoist off craigslist for $75 bucks so we were ready to go. Once we had it on the hoist it took me and 2 others about 10 mins to back the engine/tran combo out from between the frame rails with some minor fiddling. Only issue was the hoist oil was slightly low, so one person had to give the hoist a pump or two every minute to keep it up. Fixed that later that day, but were able to get it out without any issues. Engine out with the trans off: Proceeded to remove the clutch components: Pressure plate had some nice small hot spots. Also you can see a ring on the outer edge where the rivets from the friction disk were wearing into the pressure plate. What remains of the rivets on the friction disc: The mother of all flywheels, this thing was a beast. Damn dual mass flywheels Back of the engine (got some good cleaning in there to get rid of all the friction material dust, engine side wasn't as bad but bellhousing was caked with it: Transmission wasn't too bad to move around, I would guess its about the same weight as my T5 in my mustang so no big deal moving it around the garage. And finally the money shot of the car with no drivetrain. Girlfriend wasn't anywhere near as excited as I was that the entire front of the car was pretty much on the garage floor

Girlfriend's car had her clutch go out about a month ago, and just now finding time to work on it since I was in Japan for work for 2 weeks. Her car is a 2009 cooper s and after doing some research into the mini's, turns out the stock clutches only last 40-50k normally. Thanks BMW. (I talked to some people at a dealership, and they said they have had cars in with less than 15k miles on them for clutch replacements...) Anyways, went back and forth on how to tackle this thing since I have just a one car garage and shorter jackstands so height was kinda an issue. The manual says to basically to drop the front subframe, support the engine from above, and then drop the transmission out the bottom. I went back and forth on how to support the engine, and given the mini does not have traditional frame rails to use an engine bar across the top, I decided to say F it and just remove the entire drivetrain from the vehicle. And here we go. First Night ~2.5hrs The mini takes up a lot less space in the garage than my mustang does haha. Got the car up on stands, then proceded to remove the entire front. Grille and cover came off first, then radiator support assembly. It actually came off surprisingly easy and was not bad at all. Front clip has pretty much everything on it, intake tubes, bumper, headlights, radiator/condenser, everything comes off with minor electrical connectors once the coolant/refrigerant is drained. How the car sat after the first day: