vonrottes

Got the header back....

And immediately noticed the collector had not been touched. Instead it looks like they replaced the flange that mates to the head....

Double checked to see if I was just blind... And it's actually leaking worse than when I shipped it off.. going to call tomorrow morning to see if I can just take it up there and show them where it's leaking.... I guess their repair guys are just incompetent since the work order clearly states "collector was leaking, check for leaks and repair"

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Truck has been sitting like this since last week..just got an email saying the header will be delivered today. Not sure if they repaired or replaced it. But it is out for delivery..

So today after work I gotta pull the big ass ypipe out, fix a few little holes I found in it and then shove the header back in.

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Hopefully I get a header in the mail this week so I can get the sonoma fixed and I'M IN!

If not....well....i dunno.

Define "want something different".

 

 

I like my weird-ass BMW but have been thinking about something better for 2up riding.

Basically the same bike buuut a different style that appeals to me more than the classic cruiser.

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I had no idea they were $1200. I had assumed a header with an issue like that would have cost far less. Great to hear they are standing behind their product and making things right.

Yeahhhh,if they had been a cheap set like the original eBay short tubes I was running I wouldn't have even bothered.. but these are just a little pricey to say screw it

Well they are going to be covered so that's cool...

I'm assuming it will be fixed properly or replaced.

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the problem is you maybe dealing with a never ending cycle of cracking down the road. 2-300 now, every 2 years repairs to the header, combined with the time contacting people to get fixes, and time taking headers off car. . . . it maybe quicker to pay up front to not have to deal with it for years.

I've email SW again with the video attached.

And if they won't cover it. I'll be switching over to the flowtech stainless longtubes which are only $599 vs $1,200.

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Based on what I saw in your video, best case scenario, the leak is where the collector meets the primaries and a competent welder could grind back the existing weld and reweld deeper into the pocket between the primaries. Worst case, the leak is where the primaries meet and are welded to either a bullet that simulates a merge collector or a spider like in most off the shelf headers. This would require either the collector be cut off to access that spot or if lucky a pencil style tig torch could be used if the collectors are short enough. Sad to say, but a new set of headers might be less expensive than the repair.

cheapest for replacement would be $1,200

I can't imagine best case would cost more than $2-300?

How old is it?

Bought it december 2016 installed it around april/may 2017

truck was stolen in july 2017 and it's been sitting until july 2018 when I reinstalled it on the new truck.

Contacted Alex, he's currently busy and referred me Jon Moore, awaiting his reply.

I've also contact CPW which is who I bought them from. as suggested on another forum.

I'm not a welder, but where this leak is looks like it will be a bitch to fix.

Not interested in the bike but what’s up with the 79-81 firebird in the background?

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Well, the time has come to finally list something here..

It's a 96 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 chassis/tins with a 2002-4 Vulcan 1600 engine.

Has custom paint that pictures don't do it justice (some of you may have seen this bike at CC&C or the 614 meets last year) it's a copper pearl over black, but I call it root beer. Acrylic enamel paint.

My father did the engine swap to get a little more power and an extra gear.

Has 43k miles and has a few aftermarket parts

V&H pipes iirc, scootworks air filter, thunder mfg Dash mount ignition.

And not pictured I still have the heat shields for the pipes, back rest and crash bar.

I'm only listing because I want something different, been riding this bike since 2013.

CHEAP AS SHIT ON INSURANCE at 25 I'm only paying $8 a month. And gets around 30mpg +-5

Have it listed for 4,100 on FB

3,400 for CR

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My expensive ass stainless works long tube headers have developed a REALLY bad leak at the merge/collector.

I emailed them Thursday about the warranty, they have not gotten back to me other than asking for pictures of the crack, which is near impossible since it's in the middle where the four tubes come together... I need this repaired asap but I'm not sure this can be repaired without cutting the merge off.

So is there anyone here that is capable of repairing a 304 stainless header this week???

Do you think that was the noise you were hearing?

Probably.

It's a pretty damn big leak, but I can see it..

Well ain't that some shit...

Drove it for a week and now I've found a broken weld in the collector merge on the driver side....like a really big leak.

Contacted stainless works to see about coverage on warranty.

I wouldn't think the center piece of the merge would crack from abuse, if it was the outside of the collector that would make sense...but I dunno.

If they won't cover it under warranty would anyone here be able to fix it for me? If they could do it on the truck that'd be fucking awesome:dumb:

Anyone else going to the car show at the toy barn this Saturday?

I signed up just for shits and giggles.. got an email this morning saying to bring my truck :lolguy:

Looks awesome! What's up with the gaps between the front bumper and the side trim pieces? I know there's typically a small gap there but it's not supposed be that wide, is it?

My bumper is super janky. And I it's not lining up properly. Also I think some of the issue is with the grille. The bumper is all the way forward and still hitting the grille.

That

Thing

Looks

Sweet.

 

Will try to make it to CC&C. Congratulations on the progress so far!

I ended up not going it started Storming here around 730.

I just don't like getting wet 😂

She's "done" officially. Drove to Gahanna after bleeding the brakes, did ok.. had a little slip in the transmission under load, tcc wasn't working and I think my hydroboost is shot.

BUT I've got trans fluid, it looks a little low and I've had slip when it's been low before. Tcc I think is related to the switch. And I still have brakes just lots of pedal effort.

So I WILL be at cc&c in the morning if anyone has experience with hydroboost... Come have a poke at it please.

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Going g to jegs in the morning to get exhaust clamps, then gonna fill it up and go on an actual test drive to ensure the brakes, transmission a d everything are in working order.. then Saturday see you guys at the Lennox.

Installed my old back glass and a new seal, and while trying to put in the new windshield trim/seal I accidentally cracked the glass sooooo, I need to get that taken care of.

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Nick's truck looks incredible, but the next upgrade for me is ctsv brembos.iirc that requires a 18" minimum

I personally kinda like the parallax, most other split spokes have a huge center which I just don't like.. seen a lot of guys running the iroc replicas and I think those are ugly as sin with the raised center and blockly paint.

The only others I might consider right now would be Camaro steelies, they have the factory style, but I could still use a modern UHP tire.

Dude...that pearl/metalflake in the gray? Looks sweet

It's the factory gm wa-8798 argent grey.

Hell yes!!! I love it. Nice work

Thanks 👍

That looks awesome. I don’t think I’ve commented on the thread, but I’ve followed since the beginning. Any plans to upgrade the wheels and tires?

Yeah, I was able to keep two of the 19x8.5 Verde parallax wheels I had on the s10 after it was stolen.. so I'll probably just buy two new wheels/tires and use those once I put an 8.8 under it again... Until then I'm just going to run the stock wheels and some new stock size tires.

Annnnnd done ... Sorta. Gotta finish mounting the headlights, mount the rear bumper, line up the bed, insall the license plate lights, get clamps for the exhaust, and put on the windshield weather stripping. As far as drivability it will be done.

Then it's just little stuff..

Get ready to see her at cc&c this weekend!

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Once I get new band clamps and seal off the leaks I should be able to better diagnos the sound, but it goes away around 2k.

It's a 2004 truck block so, I'll just run it and keep an eye out for a good 2005 or newer 5.3.. the old 4.8 I had lasted me 10k with a loud bottom end knock.

But With no visible metal in the oil or filter I'm not SUPER worried about it.

In other news though, the grey stuff is getting painted finally.

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Had an issue with the AC bracket tensioner, so it's temporarily removed with the old ls1 tensioner. Nbd since the AC isn't set up yet. Hooked the fan controller up to the pcm, so it works again. Changed the oil with 5w30 conventional And ran half a can of seafoam through it, lots of smoke after a "hot soak" and the knocking sounds isn't gone but has quietened down a lot. Need to get at least two new band clamps since the jegs brand that I've always used have all ripped. Dad is supposed to get all the cladding painted Friday.. so as soon as that's done... She'll be drivable again.

With little things needing to be done like the ignition switch, installing the cruise and little stuff that won't effect me driving it daily again other than tires......the ones on it look like ass.