vonrottes

Soooo, I didn't take any pictures of the last "mod" I did...and a lot of people will probably judge me for the product I used..

But meh. applied two rolls of Frost king Butyl foam insulation to the truck.

did the floor pans, doors, rear of the cab, Door panels, HVAC ducts, Kick panels and the "B pillars"? Still plan on getting some thicker Jute insulation for the floor...

But overall for $40 I'm incredibly happy with the noise dampening in the cab. No longer does it would like the exhaust it running through the floor, driving no longer sounds like the windows/doors are cracked open, and the cab actually stays warm longer than about 5 minutes after you turn it off.... and the BIG plus is no more crazy rattle sounds going over bumps! before what sounded like a coffee can being smacked is all gone! as well as the "crushed soda can" sound when closing the doors, it's now a satisfying "thud"

I knew sound dampening material would make a difference but holy crap I honestly was NOT expecting much from $20 crap from lowe's..

While lining the "b pillar" on the passenger side I also found the striker pin had bent the sheet metal inward, making it difficult to get the door to latch without slamming it shut. unbolted it and a few tabs with a hammer straightened it right up, the backing plate now sits flush on the sheet metal like the driver side.

And some of the most recent pictures of the hoopty.

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[emoji2369] did I miss something, is this normal?

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Something I've noticed recently is a nasty looking residue on the cladding around the tailpipe, it's dark brown/tan in color, I can scrub it off with a rag and water.

The inside of the pipe is dry soot black.

It's on my Sonoma with a 5.3, no cats, turbo muffler, 3" exhaust all the way back, no cel, no noticeable issues running.

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Shots of my junk someone else took.

Got new tires today, just some cheap 215/65 sumitomos until I figure what wheel/tire combo I want to go with..

Got a new tune on it with some VE adjustments and it's still running really good.. still having some minor issues with the hydroboost, thinking maybe the accumulator is gummed up..

And looking at getting a second battery tray for under the hood so I can pass tech Friday, wiring up a switch sounds annoying, the only reason I moved the battery is because it didn't clear the AC which isn't currently installed..

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No it will not pass tech, any battery relocation requires a cut off.

 

I would think they'd enforce that rule, even the lazy tech inspectors they have out there would probably notice.

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So I'm trying to go out to ntr this Friday and I have my battery relocated under the bed of the truck using ⅜" all thread and the factory tray/retainer.

I'm just curious is this will pass tech and if I will need a master kill switch?

I'll be entered in sportsman not running faster than a 13.5.

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Oops. I didn't take any pictures of my hoopty, but I found some big brothers Saturday in Medina.

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Rebuilt the hydroboost, no scoring on hard parts but looks like it was being run on old engine oil, everything inside was caked in sludge. Replaced orings and valves.. still having min or issues, think the accumulator may be full of sludge as well.

But it's survived going to Dayton last weekend, and up to Medina this weekend.

Runs great, still need to work out the tune, I don't think I've changed any of the airflow stuff since switching to the bbk intake.

Something hydralic is whining not sure is it's the power steering pump or transmission. As it happens in all gears, and goes with engine speed does seem to get louder while turning. But idk.

But I'm going to get tires this week and I'm gonna TRY to run it down the track Friday at trails if I can skirt by tech with 14" of rubber fuel line and no battery cut off switch..

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Saw the truck at CC&C...some details to work out but it looks great!!!

Yeah I've got some cleaning up to do...still need to get my dad to wet sand/buff the paint.... figure out some misalignment with the body parts.......and hunt down a bed that the braces aren't rusted out.

But it's driving and I don't have to bum around in my dad's truck anymore.

Still have a small leak to hunt down the passenger side, most likely it's at the flange, since I applied a thin layer of rtv...and I couldn't find any leaks in the header like the driver side.

Gonna try a seal kit for the hydroboost, since I've read a few things saying what I'm experiencing is the apply piston seal leaking.. and a $40 seal kit is a lot better than having to drop $250-300 on a new unit.

Need to hook up the +12 tail light feed for the cruise and find a spot to mount it,

And figure out why the hell the passenger side headlight is so wonky.. then I'll tackle the AC this winter... Looking at getting the new Holley box when it comes out.

But it's running great so far, no real issues to speak of, other than the knocking is still present. So I'm going to keep an eye out for a new engine just in case.

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3rd times the charm. Got this back from them last Friday with a leak in a different spot.

Their CS has been really helpful and in hopes of actually getting it fixed for good...I'm driving up to the sw facility in streetsborow Friday morning. And hopefully I'll have e the truck back together Friday night and I'll FINALLY MAKE IT TO CC&C Saturday morning.

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Looking for a set of lontubes, ypipe and muffler back exhaust for my dad's truck doesn't have to be nice or stainless, truck is used as a DD and weekend towing.. the stock exhaust is stating to pop and rattle, so it's time to replace it.

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I have some CR stickers. I will try remember to bring some out.

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I can't get the Sonoma finished so maybe I'll take the bike out....either my Kawasaki, or possibly steal my dad's 2018 Harley while he's out of town

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Emailed them last night and was told they found an issue with the flange, fixed it and I stead of getting sent down the line to have the collector repaired it got sent straight to shipping... So I get to send it back... I'm glad they are making it right, but it's annoying to have the truck down again.

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Got the header back....

And immediately noticed the collector had not been touched. Instead it looks like they replaced the flange that mates to the head....

Double checked to see if I was just blind... And it's actually leaking worse than when I shipped it off.. going to call tomorrow morning to see if I can just take it up there and show them where it's leaking.... I guess their repair guys are just incompetent since the work order clearly states "collector was leaking, check for leaks and repair"

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Truck has been sitting like this since last week..just got an email saying the header will be delivered today. Not sure if they repaired or replaced it. But it is out for delivery..

So today after work I gotta pull the big ass ypipe out, fix a few little holes I found in it and then shove the header back in.

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Hopefully I get a header in the mail this week so I can get the sonoma fixed and I'M IN!

If not....well....i dunno.

Define "want something different".

 

 

I like my weird-ass BMW but have been thinking about something better for 2up riding.

Basically the same bike buuut a different style that appeals to me more than the classic cruiser.

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I had no idea they were $1200. I had assumed a header with an issue like that would have cost far less. Great to hear they are standing behind their product and making things right.

Yeahhhh,if they had been a cheap set like the original eBay short tubes I was running I wouldn't have even bothered.. but these are just a little pricey to say screw it

Well they are going to be covered so that's cool...

I'm assuming it will be fixed properly or replaced.

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the problem is you maybe dealing with a never ending cycle of cracking down the road. 2-300 now, every 2 years repairs to the header, combined with the time contacting people to get fixes, and time taking headers off car. . . . it maybe quicker to pay up front to not have to deal with it for years.

I've email SW again with the video attached.

And if they won't cover it. I'll be switching over to the flowtech stainless longtubes which are only $599 vs $1,200.

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Based on what I saw in your video, best case scenario, the leak is where the collector meets the primaries and a competent welder could grind back the existing weld and reweld deeper into the pocket between the primaries. Worst case, the leak is where the primaries meet and are welded to either a bullet that simulates a merge collector or a spider like in most off the shelf headers. This would require either the collector be cut off to access that spot or if lucky a pencil style tig torch could be used if the collectors are short enough. Sad to say, but a new set of headers might be less expensive than the repair.

cheapest for replacement would be $1,200

I can't imagine best case would cost more than $2-300?

How old is it?

Bought it december 2016 installed it around april/may 2017

truck was stolen in july 2017 and it's been sitting until july 2018 when I reinstalled it on the new truck.