Jump to content

BornSinner

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    4,065

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

 Content Type 

Posts posted by BornSinner

  17. FS....Mens Joe Rocket Leather CBR Jacket

    in LBTS GLWS

    Posted

    Oh, I was just stating that it makes me feel like BigBlack almost seeing you post up a 42.

    Sorry though, I'll stop jacking thread.;)

    So can I call you WideWhite....instead of BigBlack

    The funny thing about the size of the jacket.....

    QueenBee was the one who rocked this jacket....and she needs that bigger chest area for these.....

    SNC10069.jpg

  18. Custom Yosh TRC 06/07 600/750 How-To

    in Tech and Tips

    Posted

    I fugured Flounder would get a kick out of this.....This write up was brought to us by "swizcore" from the gixxer.com forum.

    This is a cool write up....and the final product looks SICK..

    If I had this exhuast...I would be in the garage ight now....chopping away

    Ok,

    Let me start by explaining my reason for initially thinking to do this.

    Why

    I bought my second 06 750, this time a blk/yel used with 2700 miles all stock except for a BLINGIN Stainless Yoshimura TRC slip-on. Why would someone put the blinger on a majorily black bike as opposed to the carbon fiber? I don't know either, I just know It was messing up the mojo I was after for my bike and I needed to try to sell it and falling short of a sale I was gonna mod this shiney can myself.

    Difficulty?

    I am a very ambitious motivated person, at 20 in college I was putting a fully rebuilt carbed 350 out of a 69 Camaro into a one year old S-10 (1998). You need to have mechanical skills but more importantly you need to use common sense and ask questions if you have them instead of just seeing if such and such will work. I have shortened and repacked mx silencers for years and assumed this would be essentially the same thing with the exception of this slip-on needing to look perfect after the mod whereas a mx silencer gets beat up anyway so finish isnt really important.

    Tools Used

    Cordless drill

    Quality metal drill bits

    Dremel Tool with cutoff wheels(Or Air powered die grinder- but Dremel is preferred for precision)

    Masking tape

    Tape measure

    Dead blow mallet (plastic/nylon head)

    Rivet Gun (manual or auto)

    Heat Gun (or hair dryer)

    Reciprocating Saw

    * Since I dont have alot of time on the bike since the install I want to make it clear that I MAY end up powder coating the can for durability, but right now it is simply coated in Rustoleum Flat Black.

    The Deal

    Here is what I started with:

    1-1.jpg

    Remove only the springs connecting the can to the mid pipe and the hangar strap bolt so that you may remove the can and place it on a soft surface on your work bench such as a towel.

    2.jpg

    Using your cordless drill and a 3/16" drill bit drill out all the rivets on each end of the can. Using a 1/8" drill bit drill out the four rivets holding the Yoshi emblem on the can. Use your heating source (gun or dryer) to heat up the emblem adhesive, there isnt much on it but it is a little stubborn. Get it off carefully so as to not bend it too much. If you do bend it during removal, it straightens back out pretty easily. Heres a pic I took with the bottom can rivets drilled out and pieces removed.

    3.jpg

    The top can tip cover is adhered to the shell so you'll need to use some sort of blunt object and your dead blow mallet to even tap around the covers base to get it to come off of the shell. Tap the red area highlighted below all the way around the can. It was kind of a bitch on mine.

    3a.jpg

    Now, you need to determine the length of the can you want to end up with. I wanted the can to be exactly long enough to have the hangar strap flush against the nose cone base. When you determine the length you want, use masking tape to tape around the can as a guide for cutting the can shell. Be sure to use your measuring tape to assure your square all the way around the shell. When your guide is set use the dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and just score the shell all the way around its circumference. After its scored you can start working the cutting wheel around the shell, try to keep at a consistent depth instead of cutting through all at once. I went through about 6 or 7 1" cutoff wheels.

    When you get the shell circumference cut you now need to cut the shell along its length from the end of the can to the cut you just made- you can try to just pull the shell off but it wasn't happening on mine, that SHIT IS TIGHT. When you get the length-wise cut done, remove the now useless skin you just cutoff.

    Where gloves for this part unless you enjoy fiberglass cuts!!

    Use a razor blade to cut through the fiberglass packing material. Try to cut it back at an angle under the shell skin so you dont have a hard time getting the end tip back inside the skin when your reassembling. Discard all that fiberglass.

    Have a buddy stabilize the can and cut the inner core insert, the mesh and steel packing with a recriprocating saw using a NEW metal blade. Cut it flush with the mask line on the shell which you just cut with the dremel.

    Now you can push the fiberglass packing which is trying to stick out of the shell back in and line up the metal inner core insert with the tip on the can and wrestle the tip back into the shell. Make sure the inner core insert is inside the end tip in the shell when you reinstall. Now you should be looking at this

    4.jpg

    And here is a close up of just the new raw slip-on

    5.jpg

    Now it is really simply a matter of choosing your finishing method, waiting, and pop riveting the pieces back together.

    I have always had great luck with normal Rustoleum Flat Black spray paint. The night I got this all done to the point you see in the pic above I sprayed the swingarm side of the can with my trusty Rustoleum and went for a short though high rpm 6 mile ride to heat it up for a paint test. I got back and it was about as hot as a can gets and the next morning the paint looked GREAT. So I said, alright lets try this. I sanded down the entire shell, and cap cover and hanger bracket with 150 grit sand paper. Cleaned them off with towels I knew were free of any detergents or chemicals, hung them and sprayed them with 2 coats of Rustoleum Flat Black. I sprayed the end cap cover off the pipe because I wanted it to have essentially the same amount of paint on it in the end as everything else and I needed to spray the hidden old style tip which is under the cover so it wouldn't be blingin under the cover. You should sand and apply another coat of paint after you get the cap cover back on before riveting it all back together. So here is the mocked-up shorty before I riveted it back together.

    6.jpg

    When the paint is fully cured (after 24 hours of setting in a well ventilated room with good air flow and low humidity) You need to pop rivet everything back together. The two ends of the slip-on use 3/16"x 5mm rivets while the Yosh emblem uses 1/8"x3mm rivets.

    I think thats about it. I'll answer any other specific questions if there are any. This shorty accomplishes all that I set out for, its a little louder with more rumble than the stock Yosh and its no longer blinged out.

    Here are some final pics and a video clip of how she sounds while sitting.

    7.jpg

    8.jpg

    9.jpg

  22. red light camera???

    in Dumpster

    Posted

    If they send you a copy of the picture of you running the light....you should lay out 95 dollars, take a picture of it and then send them that....

    But serously

    Stop running red lights.....and you would get a pretty photo that cost you 95 dollars...

    Prices like that...seems like you took a picture with a stripper...."They just robbed you"

  24. How to: Install Mesh in Fairings

    in Tech and Tips

    Posted

    This How-To came from NraGed on the 600rr forum. I do something like this to the "ShopBike". The material that I used was way thinner and not as strong. So go chance this will be done on something over the winter

    DIFFICULTY = 6 OUT OF 10

    Before:

    Picture2141.jpg

    Step 1....

    Buy a mesh garbage can from either Walmart or Ikea for $7.00. They have a choice of Black, Silver or Dark Gray.

    50503_PE147176_S4.jpg

    Step 2....

    Cut the garbage can into a usable sheet of mesh, but do not kink or straighten it out. Leave the curl in it, as I found it helped with the fitting later. You will have extra if needed...I used a little over half the mesh only for one bike.

    Picture2139.jpg

    Step 3....

    Remove your fairings and place on a soft working surface that won't scratch. There are many threads on how to get the fairings off your 600RR.

    Step 4....

    Note the foam insulation on the insides of the fairings. This foam will need to be trimmed using a razor blade and scraper. I used an automotive "brake cleaner" to remove the adhesive residue after the foam was peeled off

    Picture2142.jpg

    Picture2143.jpg

    Step 5....

    Next you must cut the mesh into workable sizes. A good couple inches bigger than the opening you are filling is sufficient. Remember to use the garbage can's natural bends to find the best fit. Using a Sharpie, without marking the mesh on the outside where it is visable, mark your cuts. Keep in mind that corners need to be bent in separate ways, so mark your cuts accordingly (i.e. - see picture)

    Picture2144.jpg

    Step 5b....

    ***added note***

    You'll notice one side (LH) is an odd shaped hole and you will need to really think before you cut the mesh. Plan your cuts and be sure not to apply Sharpie marks where you will see them later. As they say..."Measure twice, cut once"?

    Picture2147.jpg

    Step 6....

    Cut your pieces using a pair of Tin Snips. I am not sure how everyday wire cutters will work, but I know Snips are the quick, easy, precise way to cut the mesh.

    Picture2145.jpg

    Step 7....

    Fit your newly cut pieces of mesh onto the matching holes and perform bends as per your original markings. I found the mesh bent in very straight lines and was exceptionally easy to mold into place.

    Picture2146.jpg

    Step 7b....

    ***added note***

    I used a very small hammer to help mold the odd shaped LH fairing hole. The mesh was easily molded into place while I held the mesh firmly and worked it gently around the bends with the hammer. I only needed the hammer on the odd shaped hole. This is not a big deal and is not very difficult to do.....only patience is needed.

    Step 8....

    Remove the now "prefit" mesh pieces and apply a thin bead of RTV silicone to the inside of the fairing, around the holes. Keep the bead of silicone as far away from the opening as possible, while still close enough to bond the cut mesh pieces to the plastics. This is because you are going to squish the silicone later and you don't want it to be visable through the fairing holes. Do one hole at a time.

    ***added note*** -some members are using a 2 part epoxy instead of RTV silicone. Both will hold, but RTV is not permanent....Epoxy is....so choose something you can live with. If RTV is used, you will have to be generous to ensure reliable stick for extended life. I used one small tube of RTV on each side of the bike. RTV silicone should not come off, and I know the original "how to" thread included the use of RTV too!

    Picture2148.jpg

    Step 9....

    Refit your mesh cutouts to the matching holes and allow the mesh to squish into the silicone. Be sure not to get any silicone onto the visable mesh surface. I used gloves and a small scraper to assist in slightly spreading the silicone around.

    Picture2149.jpg

    Step 10....

    If using RTV silicone istead of Epoxy....add additional RTV silicone and spread it around as in previous step. I did not want to reattach my mesh at a later time. NOW is the time to ensure it "Ain't coming off".

    Picture2150.jpg

    Step 11....

    Once the mesh is completely installed, us a heavy object to weigh it down. This will keep the mesh tight against the plastics while silicone drys. Be sure to not get any Silicone or epoxy on the mesh area as a result of screwing around with something heavy? I used hammers against my workbench.

    Picture2151.jpg

    Step 12....

    Reattach plastics to bike and ta-da....

    AFTER...

    Picture2152.jpg

    Picture2153.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...