Joe

Joe, You can buy them at any Advance Auto for a couple bucks! smile.gif Hope this helps [ 04 September 2002, 07:40 PM: Message edited by: More Tools Than Columbus Racing ]

sweet jesus!!! i will have to get one of those. the extra features certainly justify the extra 600 dollars! Brian, does RPM Performance Centre carry them, and whats the URL for them? Thanks..

if you want an easier way that is just about as accurate as counting teeth, visit www.smokemup.com there are many many cool automotive based calculators on there! gear ratios is just one of them!

This is Relv. http://www.columbusracing.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000310 My opinion. Didn't feel like typing out why. If you need more info ask.

The is Relv: The fact that you are building a killer engine, and are NOT using a fully programmable stand-alone ECU shows your lack of experience. Sorry. The fact that you have not done extensive research on VE% curves for these different combinations, researched the individual effects of each modifications, then applied them all to known data for an accurate portrayal of engine performance at different rpm points... The fact that you can't even take all these variables, and then apply the to a compressor map, then do research on how exhaust a/r's and certain turbine trims are affected by different modified mustangs. Research the effects of turbine spool vs. volumetric efficiency. Come on now. The fact that you trust others to do these things for you does not prove you "know your shit". I was going to do this for your combination, but frankly it requires an emmense amount of time. I will do it for free if you can provide the above mentioned data for me.

they are detonation powered! perhaps the pushrods they are talking about arent pushrods as you know them James. My motorcycle had them, but they were basically connecting rods from the OHC and the valve buckets. These "pushrods" are probably just cam followers of some kind, not really pushrods. [ 21 June 2002, 11:00 PM: Message edited by: More Tools Than Columbus Racing ]

Well, in the early 70s the way HP and Torque was measured changed. I am not sure on WHAT changed, though. The 318 in my dads car was rated at 200hp, and is a 74. In 70, they were around 220.

yes, and NHRA wants you to mandrel bend the cages....right. No, he has a mandrel bender, i think there is something about the dies that he has. I am not sure, he did 3 inch exhaust on my old mustang (now his) and it turned out good. I dont know....

Yea, I can do that. I dont get to talk to him that much, though. I will make sure to leave a message for him though.

I have a friend in Marysville who can mandrel bend pipe up to 3". I am having him bend my intercooler piping, so i can post pics sometime to let you know how it came out. He does all the bending for his and his daughters dirt race cars rollcages. Very nice work, and as long as the pipe is kept under 3" the bends are very smooth. He said that even with the proper dies, the larger pipe tends to flatten out a tad. So the bends will resemble the bends avalible through Advance or AutoZone, ust without the wrinkles. I can get his number for you if you would like.

adjust TPS. should be almost 1.0 volt at 850rpm i believe (nothing higer than .90v). just back out the retaining screws and turn it while having a OHM meter on the signal wire. [ 29 May 2002, 11:22 PM: Message edited by: More Tools Than Columbus Racing ]

I totally agree. There is nothing I hate more than people bragging about VTEC. I have it in my Si, woohoo, it uh, makes my car louder.... Seriously, especially with forced induction, it makes sense to go with more cubes. Sure the B16 has proven itself to the performance aftermarket, as well as the racing world, but its an expensive engine once you start getting serious with the mods. I would recommend a turbo H22. Plenty of torque and LOTS AND LOTS of top end (in the honda world, anyways ) Go ZC and be happy. Buy Kennys car and be even happier

why does he need to do that? he wasnt asking for a mechanic....... sell your car yet?

easy way to tell. go to www.advanceautoparts.com and look up the 2 aplications. same numbers, same part. The 4.3 is a 5.7 with the last 2 cylinders lopped off, FYI. Swaps are easy, and 350s are still fairly plentiful. EDIT: we also sell nice Accel and Holley TBI units capable of like 500-600hp and any advance employee gets 20% off

Howard, tell Steve i found him an impact gun and compressor, if he still needs them.

LMAO!! Praise Explodius to not let my seals blow apart!!! *offers gifts of pistons that have been melted* Serioulsy though.....i have noticed this trend as well, and i havent had my car for very long. At least it gives me something to do inbetween the times i get to see Amy, which is WAY too few and far between

ok, lets clear up some myths first. *dawns Prof. Marks teaching hat* In the world of trucks, there are a few designations to remember: 1500, 150, etc: denotes 1/2 ton capactiy. Typically designed for the modern day soccer mom or weekend warrior dad to feel that they have real "power" under them. Usually provides good ride to to lack of "heavy duty" suspension. 2500, 250, etc: this would be a 3/4 ton truck, and is better suited for thos looking to pull a trailer or haul larger payloads in the bed. Most opt for four wheel drive at this point, as the suspension, which was made stiffer so as to provide the extra 1/4 ton of capacity, better handles the off roading tasks. Usually sits higher and may have a bit broader wheel base, depending on manufacturer. 3500, 350, etc: this is the big boy of the group. this 1 ton truck can usually do it all. Payloads in excess of 1 ton are readily hauled in the bed. Larger brakes and transmission components help to deal with the added mass. Now, as to the suspension problem, most modern day suspensions (apart from cars such as the Supra, RX7, and others) are designed with two usually things in mind, that being rider comfort and safety. The answer to your question lies in either adding helper springs, which bolt either under or over you current springs and provide added ground clearance as well as payload capacity, or swapping a set of stiffer springs, ie: the ones from a Ram 2500 or even 3500 into you truck. Make sure to upgrade the rest of the suspension as well. A rear end change can gain a better gear ratio, so as to not work the engine as hard. Upgraded shocks and sway bars will help to better control the instability caused by heavier payloads. I hope this helps. (Actually, i just wanted to see what it felt like to post like Mark tongue.gif )

bent fork, possibly. Maybe the gear is pressed on crooked? this is actually easy to have happen. also, check idler gear (on secondary shaft) position. I think i have lots of notes on the T5 trans and i know i have an exploded view of one. i will dig through and get back to you! Good luck!

did you remove the cats? this will cause popping in the exhaust, as there is no flame arrestor, and lessened back pressure. Also, check timing.

so uh...you guys still need the puller?

bellhousing should be the same...... other than hanging the clutch, you should be set smile.gif

Rel on Joe's PC: Tommy, that's fine. Although I don't know, I've got lots of BEARINGS I need to pull so you better not use it too long tongue.gif . Sorry guys I have not seen this thread in awhile. I'm sure a new pilot and throwout bearing will fix your problem. Good luck.

buy a ford and you wont have that problem!

Sam, please check on that for him. my car is never going to run, so i want to ride in his for the time being! smile.gif

This is Brian posting from BFE: Yeah, I've read about the effects of water injection pre-compressor. People tend to use the excuse that the turbo "atomizes" the water more (Mainly an excuse from those that are too cheap to buy a proper pump and nozzle for atomization). If anything it would be just before the throttle body, because from what I read the main advantage is when the water flashes to steam in the combustion chamber, eliminating many of the hotspots. P.S. - Thanks for the tip on the perma-cool fan, Joe and I will look into that. The next option was the Blackmagic which is rated at 2800 cfm, and costs around $186 through jegs. Seems like a much better deal smile.gif [ 16 March 2002, 01:41 AM: Message edited by: More Tools Than Columbus Racing ]