s13

A lot of dsm guys run gatoraid bottles as their overflows.

I 27 wont hit 100 bucks for atleast 5 years. Extended warrenties are not scams if you use them. Sears offers a yearly check up on your tv. If you have them do this without the warranty its about 150 dollars. So on a 5 yr 500$ warranty it pays for itself. Plus if you purchase a DLP and the bulb burns and they quit making the bulb, you get bumped to an lcd. I am contemplating on buying a 60 inch dlp for 1500, and waiting the bulb to blow up for a similar sized lcd or plasma which is 3k+. You can't even buy analog 27s for 100 bucks unless their junk.

I've heard rumors about people getting off because of spelling mistakes. Lemme know if it works.

How about you buy your dads 06 grand prix and drive it. 4-5k for that car is a steal. Why not just drive that? If you can only pay 200 a month with no money down your going to get murdered by the interest. Youll end up paying 20k+ in the end. 06 =5k 08=20k Is the difference worth 15k? Besides maybe your dad will let you make payments without interest.

There are 2-3 summits and colts at woodys junkyard. No clue if the ecu is still there or not but worth a shot. EDIT: 4g63 swap

Those xact wires fell apart on my as soon as I opened the box. Check for fuel pressure and spark.

I go to the one of broad, maybe thats why I never have any money in my bank account...

I posted a sign on the door of my 8th period class saying that we are going to the media center. Needless to say half the class showed up 20 minutes late.

The motor had 0 miles when I bought it, and he did claim he did a perfect job because he built the motor for himself but sold it when his wife bought him and evo and told him he had to get rid of his 2nd gen. I just don't see how anything I could of done caused the motor to do this.

Well the rod bearings were spun and one was oil starved. What should I do about getting my money back? I got a quote from 1500-2000 depending on what all needs replaced. Thats including labor parts and machine work. I paid 1400 for the motor. Should he refund me the 1400? Should I see if I can pull the motor and give it back to him for the 1400?

???? The bearings from the 120 cylinder were oil starved, the bearing turned blue and I found a nice chunk of soft metal in the oiling hole, possibly the bearing itself? The other bearing I pulled looked fine,but i could push it side to side while it was still attached to the crank. Is this normal? The crank doesn't seem to have been turned and the bearings are standard size. The arps were on pretty tight and I had to use a breaker bar to get them loose. So it looks like I should pull the crank and have it checked out. Will new bearings and the crank checked out fix the low compression?

I did not rebuilt it myself. I bought it off a member from cdsm. Should I pull the rod off and check the bearings? I didn't want to incase he claimed I changed the bearings or something of the sort.

Its a Baja, they sell them at Pep Boys.

The end caps on the rods have about a 1/4 mm of play to each side. I can shake them back and forth while they are still torqued down to the crank. It seems as if the crank was turned and stock bearings were put back in. 6-bolts are pretty immune to crank walk. The car was never boosted, never taken about 5k and no fast sweeping freeway ramps. Also I don't believe the motor was blueprinted but I was told the crank was balanced. Compression was 150-150-120-150. I was figuring the 120 was the only bad bearing. The 4th cylinder has the most play in the end cap and the 1st cylinder has the least, I can still push it back and fourth but it takes a lot more force.

You can turn your insurance off. If they randomly audit you all you need is a statement from a mechanic claiming it doesn't run.

Car has a brand new oil pump and pick up tube. Has always been right on full and didn't leak. It also had amazing oil pressure. Balance shafts removal was done correctly. It is a non turbo block though without oil squirters, but my understanding is that those wouldn't affect it. And a cam would spin before the rod did if there was an oil pressure problems since the oil from the pan would splash up.

I tore the oil pan off my car tonight and I can shake all 4 rod bearings with my hands. The car is rod knocking extremely bad. Can anything besides bad machine work/wrong bearing sizes cause all 4 bearings to go bad? Motor only has 1500 miles since it was rebuilt.

Symptoms: Rear wheels don't want to turn going around tight low speed right or left turns. Nasty clunking coming from transmission area. Car feels like it's being held back, may even die, when trying to backup and turn left or right. Should be flakes of metal on the transmission drain plug. Likely to occur after a hard launch. Those are for a bad center diff. Center Differential Rebuild Kit Mitsubishi part number MD733338 (Ref#22620 in image below)> Conicelli Mitsubishi $140+S&H. And thats what you need to rebuild it.

Bump

Ill give you 1200

willing to trade for a DD

Not as bad as what happend to me a couple of weeks ago. I guy told me he was selling his car so I set up a time to come look at it. I offered him his asking price and told him I would have the money in 3 days because that was most convient. The next morning he texted me saying he cant sell it for a month. 3 weeks later and he can't sell it for 2 more months. WTF is with people these days.

Im in the same boat you are with a spun rod bearing on my 6 bolt. But im selling it and buying something more reliable for school/work

Check out insurance prices. When I was 16 it was 260 a month for a 4door 90 teg on minium coverage.

So would you great less miles per charge with the CD player and headlights on?