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ped

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Posts posted by ped

  1. The point was your feet can touch the pegs . Under breaking u have a choice . Support your weight with your arms or legs ya don't have any other options. Which is stronger your legs or your arms ? Do u walk around all day on your hands ?? Oh and BTW rueben xaus famous pic of him sliding the hypermotard with one hand off the bar (thumbs up) would be an example of using his legs to hold on

    Nope again as I said they actually can't touch the pegs. I use my crotch against the back of the tank and my arms under braking....then adjust my body position for cornering. I have no idea what you're talking about with walking on your hands but Xaus is sitting on the seat and sliding the rear end. That's not cornering anyway. Not to mention is outer knee is pointing away from the tank making it impossible to hold on with his thighs. I can do the same thing when leaned over (take one hand off). Who manhandles the bars?

    Show us a pic of you hanging off a table holding yourself with one leg.

  2. Look at your picture . Is your foot touching the foot peg ???? Yes it is ! You have said ya thought stomp grip was for breaking. I'm assuming your squeezing the tank w ur legs under breaking???? Well then its quite similar while cornering . Instead of using both legs as u do when breaking you're using your outside leg .

    On the track no I usually cannot reach my outside peg at all. If I can it is just barely. (Im not that short it's just those pegs are very low, got rearsets now though). I've seen motogp riders not touching the outside peg at all many times.

    I don't use stomp grip so I don't really brake with my thighs squeezing the tank much. Really nothing like cornering.

  3. Why does everyone assume because the knee isn't touching the leg isn't doing anything. Stompgrip is to aid in stability while cornering. Is the outside leg holding me on the bike, no not really until you hit a bump mid corner. The leg is used to provide a stable platform. I personally use from my knee to about 6"back. Is this the absolute way it must be done, no the placement isn't as important as the use of it. Without using the legs you will never fair well at a track with a lot off bumps.

    Whatever works for you. But I have logged over 50K miles I'm quit certain at this point my leg isn't doing anything. Except maybe adding area for the friction on my seat or something. Definitely not holding on with it or even tightening the muscles at all.

    Ummmmmm ...........No that's not his style its how all Cali sbk coaches ride even Joe who is a tiny little short dude . The only way it would be an impossibility is if you had no legs at all .

    No....you would know over me......

  4. Ya see Craig you are a dbag!!!! This guy can't even get his knee to contact the bike with his outside knee in the cut out on the gas tank cuz its totally not designed for that . I know I know Craig your gonna tell me a Cali sbk coach has the same bike and uses his legs to stabilize his lower body but you're an idiot !!

    Great....that's his style. I have stock pegs and am somewhat shorter. I literally cannot do it if I tried. Throws your theory out the window......

  5. Your leg never touches the tank?

    Nope. My knee never touches the side of the tank either. At worst my thigh is parallel with the backside of it, but often not even touching on the track as I sit back on the seat. There is virtually no way for me to hold on with my leg. I just sit on the seat and counter-steer.

    I honestly have no idea what you're talking about, frankly. I thought stomp grip was for squeezing the tank when braking hard to reduce fatigue.

  6. Your right. I will just do a split in every corner so my legs don't touch. I mean it's not like 3-4 lbs on the bars would be overly noticeable to the rider and the forks don't mind. Hell I think I'm going to fill in the cutouts on my gas tank to avoid using all thatengineered design work.

    Do it up. Mine are incapable of touching do to the kind of bike I ride and I do just fine, haven't fell off yet. I ride in A and turn 1:19's at putnam on a bone stock sport touring bike.

    6254203918_3aff0f8aa9.jpg

  7. http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2009.pdf. This link pertains primarily to motorcycle batteries not deep cycle batteries that was provided by another poster. Read it and you will be able to make an educated decision as to how you want to take care of your stuff.

    Deepcycle or starting has nothing to do with anything. That's just plate design differences. This article is a "battery basics for dumbies."

    It's entire premise is:

    "Check your voltage periodically during storage, charge if needed. Overcharging will destroy a VRLA."

    not

    "Throw an Autozone tender on there for 5 months cause that's what most biker yokals say to do."

    I want so much to like your info and trust you, but I just can't get past your IMO plain obnoxious behavior, you have alot of info in that head of yours, I hope for your sake you learn how to share without sounding like a jerk. thanks for the info, I'll do more research and decide for myself.

    this is a great piece of info, its by a battery maker that is highly respected, yes they make chargers, but they also tell you how to pick a charger without risk of overcharging, thank you for the addition! an interesting timeline they put out for self discharge is not even close to peds ideas, shows his thinking is not wrong but his math on rate of decline is very off.

    :nono:

    Did you eat paint chips as a kid?

  8. Just one "experts" opinion.

    This thread is just like an oil or tire thread. There's an "expert" for or against everything.

    I use a yuasa smart shot 900 on my bike batteries. They've all lasted many years. I've never had a problem with the charger. If the bike sits more than 2 weeks I have it plugged into the charger.

    I change my oil if it sits more than two days. Some "experts" disagree with this but my bike has 60k miles and is still running. They try to say oil comes from the ground but that's just their "opinion."

    it sounds like the way to go when the battery dies, i have a harley size 14 that my neighbor gave me becuase he let it get low and rather than charge it he bought a replacement since he (like pep lol) doesn't own a charger (I offered but he said to hell with it so I paid the $10 core and took it off his hands) . this may get tossed on the generator to try your theory out, after a smart charge it appears to be holding 12.54 voltage 2 weeks later.

    12.54 is like 91% charge. And just because it's holding there doesn't mean it's good. It might be sulfated and drain quickly under load.

  9. sooo, I need to replace my lawn mower and generator batteries with AGM's (size 16 looks only slightly smaller and double the cranking amps) and what? just charge them a few times a year and let it be? would be nice if that is all it takes. I'd spend that money if your right.

    If you want to buy $110 batteries for your lawnmower sure. Won't need to ever charge them unless the mower or generator doesn't or you won't use them for 18+ months.

    reading your linky

    "This "leakage" or self discharge varies considerably with battery type, age, & temperature. It can range from about 1% to 15% per month. Generally, new AGM batteries have the lowest, and old industrial (Lead-Antimony plates) are the highest. In systems that are continually connected to some type charging source, whether it is solar, wind, or an AC powered charger this is seldom a problem. However, one of the biggest killers of batteries is sitting stored in a partly discharged state for a few months. A "float" trickle charge should be maintained on the batteries even if they are not used (or, especially if they are not used). Even most "dry charged" batteries (those sold without electrolyte so they can be shipped more easily, with acid added later) will deteriorate over time. Max storage life on those is about 18 to 30 months."

    and

    "Inactivity can be extremely harmful to a battery. It is a VERY poor idea to buy new batteries and "save" them for later. Either buy them when you need them, or keep them on a continual trickle charge. The best thing - if you buy them, use them."

    And you have the lowest self-discharging batteries in your bike. Note they didn't make any distinction on type. You're losing about 1% per month for 4-6 months during the coldest period of the year. Versus 15% per month. And on top of that your batteries are very sensitive to over-charging. The entire reason for a tender is so that the battery doesn't sit in a discharged state.

    There's also another technical aspect we haven't yet covered which is AGM's much lower internal resistance. I was going to save that for when someone brought up that the tenders website says it is set to a voltage at or below electrolysis level. But to keep it simple not only is gassing detrimental as they're sealed, AGM's begin to gas at lower float voltages because of the less resistance (you can bulk charge them at 2C versus ~6C). Furthermore, all batteries internal impedance goes up with ambient temperature.

    And finally there's a quadruple whammy in the equation. Because they are glass matt they have significantly less electrolyte available to be boiled off.

    -gasses at lower float voltages

    -cannot be replenished

    -retains a charged voltage much longer

    -has less available gassing headroom

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery

  10. No. Stupid engineering though.

    What's happening with the sealed batteries and a tender is they recombine the oxygen and hydrogen inside the battery during charging instead of just venting it off like a flooded type does. But they have a valve for pressure release (VRLA-valve regulated lead acid). When you put a constant voltage to them over a long period of time like a tender does it can cause the valves to have to vent the excess pressure equaling water loss. Since they're sealed you can't replace it by simply adding distilled water. And again they just don't need it anyway as they self-discharge 15X slower.

    If you have a parasitic load on the other hand it will help to keep the excessive venting in check as it balances everything out. You can look at it as the high self-discharge rates of traditional batteries act as a parastic load for instance thus needing a tender.

  11. humm, I've been using them on my generator and lawn tractor so they don't die over the winter, the generator battery has been in place for many years and never had a problem. I replaced the whole mower 2 years ago and its been in use since and worked out ok so far. I doubt the lawn mower batteries are the newer type of battery your speaking of though?

    Correct. They're the kind that do need a tender.

    many many people swear by tenders of one form or another... you are the first I've heard to say this, are they using them to offset a parasitic loss? every quad I ever owned had a winter tender on it, never had to replace a battery. I'm sure if I disconnected the battery and kept it out of the cold would be "better" but the wife has rules about vehicle parts in the house lol.

    80% of the country believe adam and eve rode dinosaurs to church too. ;)

    For a relatively significant parasitic load a tender would be a very good idea. Any battery that sits in a discharged state will be damaged by sulfation. Unless you have aftermarket mods you shouldn't have a parasitic load though.

    Keeping the batteries in the cold is better. Heat causes higher self-discharging rates. Battery capacity is diminished with the cold but that is a different aspect altogether.

    If you want to know if you need a tender or if I am full of shit just keep a tab on the battery voltage with a multimeter this winter and note it's amount of weekly or monthly self-discharge.

    Here is a good faq to go over

    http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#What is a Battery?

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  12. You're batteries aren't flooded types of yester year where you just add water occasionally. Modern bike batteries cannot handle over-charging at all (cause they're recombinant) and they don't self-discharge anywhere near the rate either. A maintainer is a giant no-no.

    A desulfation is a sort of last throws of a battery. It can help but only so much. You use that when your battery accepts a charge but cannot hold up under load. You don't use that in general. Just to try to bring one back from the dead.

    I was always under the impression that a battery tender charged and discharged the battery alternately....

    No they hold a steady voltage and let the battery self-discharge a certain amount then kick back in again.

  13. Around 6:30 this morning there was an unusual event at the Prairie Island nuclear power plant. Authorities say a decrease in coolant levels for one of the plant's nuclear reactors indicated there may have be a leak.

    "What you're telling me is my first awareness of this situation," says 71-year-old, Ramona Child-Jones who was opposed to the construction of the Prairie Island nuclear plant.

    http://kaaltv.com/article/stories/S2526783.shtml?cat=10219

  14. Seems one rancher out there was doing that, then burying them in large holes. Iirc, he got caught and convicted on some sort of bs charges. He had proof of damage and vandalism done to his home/ranch when he was on runs to town for supplies. At night they were constantly a threat to him and his family there. Seems he lived a couple of hours from town. When he returned the house was broken into, goods were stolen and the house and surrounding grounds were trashed, but he still went to jail.

    Is that it? A few people, probably illegal mexicans but who knows, ransacked his place and he starts Nazi style mass graves on every brown person he sees? And you take his side? You disgusting fuck.

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