Keeping it simple, unloaded and fully extended and then with the rider on. You're looking to put the suspension in the sweet spot. Sometimes it can be done on stocker stuff sometimes it can't.
That will work. I'm focused on making sure that if any part of the attachments fail, base, arm, screw backing out, etc. that I'm tethering to the body of the camera housing. You certainly did a good job though!
Let's see...at a track day and it's raining. Options: 1- go out in the rain to be a better rider (but don't push it because after all we don't know our limits if we don't push things) and risk not just losing the cost of the track day but damaging your bike in the process thusly costing you more money. 2 - don't go out saving yourself the potential cost of repairing your bike because you went out unnecessarily and crashed and hope for some dry time later on and be a big ol' giant pussy. Hhhhmm....man that's a tough one.
All I can say is I've been on the track for 2 years not and I have yet to put knee to pavement. But that doesn't stop me from running a :19 a nelsons and a :09 at beaver. Mid-O is a whole other story for me though. More time there and I should get better.
Your tires circumference will def. play a roll in setting it up. I don't know if 2mm difference will be enough to cause you major concern but in the end yes, I believe you'd take that difference out of the shim at the top of the shock mount. It's all about keeping the geometry of the bike in it's "sweet spot". Brian can also verify this as well if he is able to get his geriatric ass to the keyboard.
Drop the forks in the triples 5mm and add 10mm to the rear shock if you don't already have that done. Edit: you should recheck your sag after this also.
Interesting. Then that begs the question to Matt, have you done anything recently to the bike? Like adding a Bazzaz controller! Or did you let Craig stand or put his hands on it at any time recently?