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Everything posted by Moto-Brian
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Guy got killed at Crow last week... Right in front of my buddy. Saw him fall over dead... Older guys with his wife and kids there, too...
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Briar is a legit MX track. Not a trail system or play riding track. They only have the main track (I guess you call it the real deal) and the "C" track he used for the "C" class racers. He's since just kept it to be used as a more GP style track or a beginner big bike track. The third track is simply for kids. If any big bikes ride it, they shouldn't be out there...
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I'm willing to meet you, but honestly, i would hook up with Brian at DTM or whatever. I just am slammed with work and don't have time to do it after 5pm. If you want to meet in the mornings, that works, but that's about it... I am not willing to adjust anything on anyone's bike as I don't want to be responsible. I can show you how to use it and you can do the programming on your own while I watch. Let me know or I can leave it with a buddy I trust and you can meet with him and have it done then... You can also come to the STT event at Mid-Ohio on April 25/26 and do it there... I always have it in the trailer...
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Yeah, if it is the only motor and thing you are working on. Fuck, man... Go into ANY dealership and ask how long to tear a motor down and find the issue and get it back together... Jesus.
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Decent?? They only have two tracks. The main track, the "C" track and the kid's track... Why would you feel the main track is only decent? Probably one of the best groomed and closest to a pro track you're gonna get...
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Is that why there are more GSXRs finishing in front of the rest of the brands at the track? Musst be a LOT of squids riding 'em...
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They just help Rob out. They actually do a solid/actual race support deal with Jeff Wrobel. Jeff has a solid program and is pretty fast, as well...
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To echo Flounder, hopefully, you got it under $2k because you'll be sinking about $2500 in it. GSXRs are somewhat fragile beasts nowadays. The rims are butter and will bend by looking at them too long. Check that rear to make sure. Frames are somewhat pricey on these models as they are newer and prone to damage... Wheels, forks, triples, race plastic, etc. are gonna cost you. If at the end, you are going to have more than $5-$6k in it, buy a Swantz bike from Reuben over at 35 Motorsports. It would be a turn key ready to roll... There's a guy on here selling race fairings, but he wants $400 for Hotbodies rattle canned... I think that's high. www.wera.com is your friend with needing GSXR parts...
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Place USED to be a shit hole. If you want a good track - check out Briar Cliff. www.briarcliffmx.com Best track EASILY around here...
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What brand and what kind of paint job? Rattle or professional...
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Dirt on the track doesn't cause any issues there. The YSR guys used to complain until they figured out that it was fine. You can easily do big bikes in one group and little bikes in the other.
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Dude, I look pimp now with the big loaf of cash in my pocket. Of course, it's going to be even funnier when I pay Monte for my boots and tires in all tens!!!:grin:
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Sinner likes his bikes like he likes his men... Now there's proof! DAYUM!! Set up too easily... Looks killer, man. I like the details like the headlight rings and stuff. Now, how the hell does Pullmydicksie get any credit? You mean he actually woke up early enough to do something? Kid has banker's hours now and is too pimp to get up and do something... Just bustin your balls, Justin. Just bustin balls... Speaking of which, Sinner - I have a certain someone's suit coming. Wanna get creative?:D
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It works perfect and isn't a new concept. My gas charged internals on my 1000 are set that way, The compression adjusters on the bottom of the forks do nothing as the right fork is compression and the left is rebound... Both still have spring adjustment and they both actually have two different rate springs in them... Your comment about flex is certainly something that can happen. It's the old bucycle crash deal. The forks can twist in the triples. You can also have some forks try and pull apart in the middle - thus, the need for fork braces...
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Call it almost 20 years being around motorcycles and understanding them. If you don't believe me, call up any reputable suspension guy. Shit, I'll get Reuben to chime in...
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Ok, try this. I am showing a quick pic of two sets of forks. Figure A is what your bike has. Solid axle, triples and steering stem. Figure B shows one fork moved up and the other not. It's exagerated, but the idea is that you guys think one fork can travel up independant of the other. This is impossible. The front view of the axle looks like a rectangular block. In Figure B, it would have to incorporate a ball or a type of hinge to allow it to travel up or down independantly. The little circles represent that in Figure B. Your axle isn't like that. It is secured on both sides by pinch bolts. It is in a machined part of the fork that is machined to fit closely w/o slop and once tightened, has no play up or down. Basically, lift one fork with the axle bolted securely in as if the front wheel is on. Lift up on just the left fork. It will move the right fork up exactly the same amount. Why? They are acting as one unit... NOT independant. Now, you can have the forks in the triples where one is up higher than the other. That is why you tighten one fork where you want it, bolt the axle in and secure the other fork when the system is at rest. That allows unrestricted motion up and down and no binding occurs... You cannot move one fork up more than the other is the tops are secured in the triples and the bases are secured onto the axle.
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Tell me how then. How can a solid axle that is bolted through both forks at the base that doesn't allow one side or the other to move up and down but in unison can be independant. There's no pivot at the base to allow that to happen. Again, you can put a .95 spring in one fork and a 1.00 spring in the other and get a .975 rate overall. That in of itself shows they work together as one unit. Your axle and the holes by which they are secured in the forks are machined to fit without slop or movement. They can only go in right to left or left to right. Once tigtehed, the axle is stationary.
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Why? Are you pissed that you are wrong? I mean, seriously, dude. What's up?
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They will both compress the same. Again, the old fork idea - one fork with oil and one with just spring. If they were both removed, one will travel or compress differently than the other. Bolted together at the axle, triple, etc., they travel up and down as one unit - not independantly...
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Dude, you cannot move them seperately at all unless unbolted. Uneven tire wear is from other influences - not the forks. Ask a suspension guy. Call Fitzgerald of Thermosman or Max at Traxxion if you don't believe me. They are secured at the top in the triples. They are secured at the base with the axle. No pivot points ANYWHERE other than to turn on a single axis at the steering post. It isn't like a front axle on a truck or car with two shocks. They have A-arms that allow independant travel of each side. Forks on a bike are not independant...
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Wrong. The axle makes them one piece. The axle doesn't go up and down differently on the right or left independently... Look, forks act in unison and not separately. Uneven tire wear from one fork being bad? Seriously guys...
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SURE!!! I still have my Supermoto gear!!
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It's like a PC tune. Stays on even with the battery removed. It basically burns it into the ECU. If he had a Yosh box tune, he'd be best to zero it out and go to DTM and use the box and tune with the dyno. But, I have one in new condition and can let DTM go and use it. I would like to be there to make sure it stays in new condition.
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not a damn thing. Ever since they stopped racing, you just show and ride. A lot of street guys would bring their DRZs and stuff and just ride. Sucks there's no more racing...
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I actually still have one... Let me know. I am north of Columbus and Delaware, Ohio...