Moto-Brian

Think of it this way. The weak link in a two piece suit is the zipped area that connects the pants to the jacket. When you crash, tumbling is usually involved whether on or off the track surface. Tumbling can easily grab the leather and pull at it. The zipper area is a weak zone and can tear open. Not really safer in a sense. I mean, I've seen guys get punctured through leather one pieces... It's just that exposed ANYTHING can result in injury and exposed mid sections might look sexy, but not so much when you have road rash...

I'll work on something over the weekend. When's the "due date" again? Do we post the ideas here or shoot them to you, Satan for approval or suggested changes to make them somewhat better? Problem I have is that I don't know what YOU want to convey. Meaning, I can come up with something that I think I would want to read or what would attract me to the site, but my interests differ from others so...

I'd say that a stop at Vance's would be beneficial. Thing I have found is that used guns if well maintained are worth almost as much as new ones on sale. Right now at Vance's shooter's supply, they have some pistol sales. Go to their website and click on flyers. That will get you the PDF file and you can see what they have. Typically, the best deals are there...

I'd say it is all a matter of seat time. Seat time helps ANYONE. The issue then becomes a matter of splitting small incriments in getting faster. The quicker you go, the harder and harder it gets to shed time. Going from a 1:40 to a 1:38 is a lot easier than going from 1:34 to 1:32 or :32 to :30... Sometimes, people just can only go so fast and hit a wall ability-wise. It's a fact of life... Some can get to 1:40 and can't get faster consistantly. Being able to hit a certain time is really cool, but if your hair is on fire and you're sweating bullets, it isn't good. Slowing down and running consistant with a reserve is MUCH better. Lap times don't mean a whole lot. Track days are fine to record laps, but honestly, using them for segment times and trying to master a set series of turns or corners means more...

Steve hits 37s pretty easily by the end of the year. I'm getting him to 34s or bust next year... For track day, that's KILLING it.

My 600 times on 600s at Mid-Ohio (old pavement) were below 36s... OLD days... On the TURD 98 ZX6R...

I rode Kawasaki ZX6Rs when we were with Kawasaki during 98-01. They were pigs and had to be built under Superbike rules to be competitive vs. the Zooks and R6s. After that, I went 750s as they were the Superstock bikes in 01-03. I just like 750s because they are like riding an FX built 600 and not as mean as the 1000s. The new 1000s are pretty damn good and yet are VERY hard to ride well... I think $3k for a salvage 600 is a good deal. No more than that, though...

I think stock suspension on the current crop sportbikes will provide great feedback and performance for the beginning to intermediate rider. Higher Intermediate to Advanced riders really need to look at suspension upgrades over engine, exhaust, etc...

Here's my suggestion... IF you want to race... Buy an 06 or newer. Not a reason towards year and technology - I know guys with 04/05s that can destroy guys on newer bikes. Gee, did I know of anyone?? That being said, the fact you want a 600 means you need to look at a few things. -Parts. What years and models have parts readily available? I'd stick with R6s, GSXRs and ZX6Rs. In that order... -Performance. Look, you don't want a turd bike like an older 600RR or older ZX6R. They suck to ride hard and typically, they cannot keep up without a LOT of money... R6s from the F.I. to now are awesome. GSXRs are a dime a dozen and are pretty much one of the toughest bikes to get fast and dependable. The newer ZX6Rs from 07/08 are pretty damn fast... -Sellability. Yup, race bikes need to be easily sold. Look what's out there. Racers are running R6s and ZX6Rs for the most part. They will sell easier than the rest... Always exceptions, but you get the idea... If you are racing, understand one thing. It won't matter if you buy a 2008 ex-AMA bike from Team Graves. You're going to get your ass handed to you. Take that amount and invest in things you're going to need. Tires, fuel, fees, etc. You might be one in a million and start handing out ass whipping cards, but if you're like most, buy an older bike and LEARN. Get good and step up to newer machines. An 06 R6 is a cool choice in the budget you want to spend and there's a SHIT pile of parts out there. However, realize that there will be guys on turd 04 GSXR600s leaving you for dead... New doesn't equate to fast. Good rider with knowledge and skill leads to fast a lot quicker than a fast bike and a mediocre rider... IF you are doing track days... Buy one of two things. A beater you care nothing about that will help you hone skills. Or, an ex race bike. Get something set-up and ready to turn the key and go. Look for key components. 25mm fork kits are uber cool, but unless you're top 5 in the WERA Nationals, you're not going to tell the difference and it isn't needed. If it is on a built bike, guess what? Bonus... Look for 20/25mm fork kits, Penske rear (easy to service vs. Ohlins and others), decent exhaust system, PC or Bazaaz system, etc. You get the idea... My choices no matter what route is: 1) R6 2006-present. Most likely, for $6-$7k you will find only 2006s... 2) ZX6R 07/08. Most likely not any for $7k in an 07. 05/06s were "ok" and can be fast, but you need to research who owned them and who took care of them. Privateer nobody? Stay away... 3) 06/07 GSXR600. Shit loads of them out there and PILES and PILES of parts out there for stupid cheap. They are turds and can be made fast, but Supersport motors are expensive and needed just so the GSXR will keep up. 95% of the fields are R6s... 4) 07/08 CBR600RR. Doubt you find a race set-up 600RR in those years for $7k. Not many out there as they are not popular... Hard to find parts easily and nobody really knows much about them except forum guys and most aren't fast so... All my $.02, of course... Some older candidates: 1)03-05 R6s. Find 'em cheap and easy to ride. 2)04/05 GSXR600s. Turds. Turds, but easy to get parts and stuff... Handle great, but suck on power... 3)05/06 ZX6R. The 03/04s were cool, too. Just really, any ZX6R outside 07/08 are pretty much low on the totum pole...

Too much and with him having to add some things for track use only, it wouldn't benefit him any. That year is a good year to buy, but honestly, you can spend $1k more and get something like Nick has and be totally happy.

Your best bet is to get some Pro Wheels in whatever size you need and check with Buchannon about what spokes you'd need. Pretty cheap way to do it. My son's KX65 is going to run the stock rear rim size for front and back and laced on the stock hubs. Running a street tire suited for the rim size... I think it's going to cost maybe $200...

Tuneboy. That's the one. Looks like a lot of Triumph guys LOVE it so, with that kind of response, I'd say it is worth a shot.

Probably will be when we all first start out. Me learning the big bike... I'll just rely on the 70 plus HP difference to help me out when I need it. DOH!

Yeah, it isn't listing your bike, I think. There was a thread started asking about certain units and one was specifically for Triumphs that guys are pretty happy with. The bazaaz is actually pretty cheap considering what you get...

Nope. Actually, I have a full Graves unit on the bike. It's simply just an engine management system. They've advanced it from years prior vs. what it used to be. The system is really cool and works rather well. However, I just think the Bazaaz unit is more user friendly. One issue with Bazaaz is that there is a chance of map stacking. In other words, you have to zero out the maps 100% or you can actually stack the new map on an old map. Say you're -20 at 12,000 rpm (quick layman example here) and you don't clear it out. If you create a new one under the self mapping sequence and it is at -15, you will stack it and it will be now at -35. Bad news...

Again, it is not going to oxidize and such fast. You can drain coolant out and it will take a VERY long time - probably close to a year for it to matter. We have spare radiators that had only race coolant in them (Has lubrication qualities like the green stuff) and they sit for years before they ever (If they actually ever get used at all) get used and they are totally fine. For a few months, it isn't going to matter one bit... If it has green in it and you drain it, it'll be good until you go to use it again...

Oh, and drain the oil at time of taking apart the motor. No reason to drain oil until ready...

You can drain the coolant and pull the motor. Coolant will leave enough of a film to protect against any surface rusting or whatnot. Hell, we dump the race coolant from the motors over winter with no issues whatsoever. If you are not planning to take the motor apart until later, just wait, though. However, if it is within a few months, pull it and start the cleaning process. Meaning, get the exterior of the motor cleaned as you have a great chance to do so outside the chassis. Personally, I'd just pull her, put it on the table/bench and start into her. Why wait?

Nick- Glad to see you hooked up with Steve and got a legit bike. I think if you take it slow and learn the bike well enough, it will reward you greatly. Why don't you list some of the mods so folks know it isn't simply a street bike but rather a track bike in street clothes. From what I know: -Full Arrow race system -PC III -Sharskin race tail professionally painted in Yamaha blue -Ohlins UES fork kit -Penske Triple 8987 shock Will make a great track weapon. Congrats.

I use the Yosh EM Pro unit with traction control, Yosh quick shift set-up, engine braking allowance and race specific wire harness. That being said, had it not been on this bike and I built one again, I would use the Bazaaz unit. I am totally impressed with the self mapping feature and traction control. For the money, it is the best system out there. The Yosh system is great, but had I HAD to purchase it separately, the cost would be HUGE and out of my budget...

Ok, look. I tried being nice. I really did. I even edited a comment I made due to me THINKING you were being a stand up guy. Obviously, I was wrong. I should make you honor the deal. Ignorance isn't a reason for not following directions as any school teacher will tell you. If you wrote down the wrong problem, you got it wrong. Tough shit. Some life lessons are tough. You were talking about a totally different bike. I'm nice by not pointing it out, but since you think the name calling and overall brilliant comebacks are needed, drop off the check at HNW and put my name on it. I'll swing by when I can or have a buddy pick it up. In fact, drop it off at Pony and give it to one of the counter guys as I am in there frequently... Jesus. Let me lay it down for you. One, I didn't even BOTHER checking a fucking WR250F due to the fact (read REAL slowly in an effort to understand) that I was asking around for a 2009 WR250X. A fucking X model, dill weed. I cannot beat your deal in a sense simply due to the fact that you bought a God damn year old bike that is now TWO model years old. Dealers aren't stacked with that bike. It wasn't a solid seller anyways. I said I can look and maybe I will. I cannot compare an 08 or 09 model simply because they aren't going to be sold the same... I asked about the rebate. Doubt I'll get an answer from the HNW guys so, I will ask around and see. I will call and follow up next week if it is what you want. It's irrelevant and pointless. Can you get it through your damn thick skull that nobody won or lost? Technically, you did in the fact that you didn't understand what unit we were discussing in the first place. Your ignorance and narrow minded idea to only make sure you TRIED to make me look bad because your G-String got in a knot from me saying ANYTHING bad about HNW caused you to look even more stupid. I understand you don't like me. Great. I lost an internet buddy. I'll cry over it later. You can rest assured you are tougher and smarter behind the keyboard than I am. YIPPIE for Angrish! You can tell everyone you know that you beat me and you were victorious. If it'll make you feel warm and fuzzy inside? Cool. Do it. Now, go back to your buddies and see if they can assist you on you manners, grammar, and overall knowledge of motorcycles and related topics. Please.

Keep it. We were both on the wrong page of sorts. Stand up guy saying to come get the money, but honestly, I guess I should have looked closer and asked if you bought a 250F. My bad, too. Guess you thought it was the same bike as what you have.

I didn't know it was used. Appeared to be, but I was wrong. I checked a couple of dealers and found some for $4399. I assume and will check to see if there was a rebate and such. That's a great deal for a new left over unit and I don't expect you to be up front and tell us if that was including a rebate and such since 07s were released in 2006 as new models (Life cycle of MX based machines - 09s were released as early as September). So, it was well into the life cycle of the 08s when he bought it. Of course, if a dealer has a left over unit so late in the cycle, they sometimes sell them for quite a bit left as to get it out. Obviously, you were able to deal on an 07 moreso vs. an 08. They were the same so, he wasn't losing anything other than model year for the bike. They were new for something like $6300. HNW = best deal around? Maybe on this unit back then. But, like I said, I will try and check and see if I can find a shop with an 07 still. Doubtful and really, impossible to compare at this point. We're well past the time he bought it and two years past the model year of what he purchased. Again, not doubting you can sell a unit competitively against other dealers, but there is always sometimes a better deal. Sometimes, not. The argument was when it was stated that you'd charge $175 and $252 on top of the great price. Even if you sold it at dealer cost, you'd be adding AT LEAST another $252. I doubt you'd go as deep as $700 below dealer on a new WR250 X but, only God knows if you'd be telling the truth as opposed to anyone can say whatever... I didn't see the F designation in Angry's sig. Didn't really matter as we were talking about the X the whole time. Not sure where I have something against HNW. I provided two threads where I stood up for you guys. I get some pussy anonymous person who leaves a reputation remark about how I am so against you guys... Guess everyone shouldn't ask around for what the best deal is and simply buy everything motorcycle related at HNW because they HAVE to be the best. I also don't say shit about any other dealer around town, because there's only HNW and Iron Pony. Pony has the best source for accessories and HNW does the best job as a franchised based dealer. The competition is terrible in CBus. Terrible. If I was in CBus, I'd drive to Clinton County, Mid-Ohio, Dayton, Cincy, Cleveland, KY, etc. before I'd buy in Columbus at places like ASK, MOC, Hinds, Hinderer, etc. They all suck. HNW does a good job, but why settle for one place? How's this to end it all? ANYONE who wants to buy a new bike or even a used unit, feel free to PM your info to me and what you want and I will check around. Get a rock bottom price from your local dealers and I will see if I can get it beat for you. Easy enough?

Yeah, I typed in Brembo and then saw it and just didn't take the time to edit the post... I've never met anyone with a Hans Spree Honda. I'd remember that. Cool idea for sure. I've been to Grattan a million times, but for STT, it was only for the Tucker Rocky Days... So, is he interested in selling it separate?

What the hell?? I thought you were going to show an invoice for a WR250X? You bought a 2007 WR250F. How can he get a 2007 WR250F??? Might be some out there, but it isn't what he wants. I can still research the WR250F, but doubt there's many dealers with those sitting around since the 09s are out... Dude, have you seriously been thinking he's wanted a WR250F Trail/Woods bike??? He wants the Supermoto WR250X - not what you bought. What the fuck? Also, before I check, that looks to be a used unit anyways. Is it actually a used unit? I can't believe you've been going along thinking it was all about a WR250F!! Dude, you've had a freakin hard on over nothing. I thought you got a quote on a 2008 WR250X. Guess I assumed you knew what we were talking about. I'll still look and see if there are any dealers I know with a used 2007 WR250F or a new one. Doubtful, though.