Moto-Brian

Not being an asshole or anything, but if you crash, it is failure to control. Whether or not you were speeding, horsing around, riding well within your means and controlled or not, a crash is the failure of a rider to maintain control... Unless things like oil, deer, etc are accounted for. So, the cop isn't being a dick for citing for failure to control if someone crashes...

The Hobart is what I have and I like it a ton. When you use gas (Needed with aluminum) it makes the welds so much nicer and is actually easier to use in making a good weld. The Flux stuff is nice for quick fixes and stuff that you never usually see the weld. I'm not great by any means, but I have a buddy who has been to enough welding classes and has pretty much every Miller welder and cutter they make. He's got more welders and cutters than an Indy Car Team has in their shop....

Harbor Freight is great for people who need spceialty tools that are used very rarely. However, things like a welder and such - you get what you pay for. Hoestly, pay a little more and get a good welder. Or, for the same money as a new "Chicago Tools" welder, you can buy a good used Lincoln or Hobart. I think Miller is the best, but they are pricey and for the average Joe guy out there, Lincoln and Hobart are nice because they have parts and supplies readily available at most places like Home Depot, Lowes, TSC, etc.

Like stated, V-Twins are 4 strokes... However, it isn't as simple as saying they are the same power just at different parts of the rev range. Typically, V-Twins are down on power to In-line 4s. Example - GSXR1000 has 165 hp at the ground. A 999 Ducati had 140 at the ground (You cannot compare the 1098 to the GSXRor similar 1000). Closer to 130 from most people who dyno'd them. What that means is that a GSXR750 is a more suitable comparison to a 999 cc Twin than an in-line 1000... In-lines are rather good - expecially at the larger displacements. Ducati needs to do 848cc to be similar to a typical in-line 600. Now, the smaller the cc in-line, the more you need to have it on tilt in terms of the revs. An R6 and ZX6R are great examples. I have not ridden an 07/08 CBR so, I can only assume it is similar. But, you need them way high in the revs to be in the power and to effectively go fast. It is the reason why a lot of rider do like the bigger bikes - you can be lazy to an extent and get away with it. A good rider on a 600 can be faster than a sub par rider on a 1000, though. Don't be fooled by the power being sooner on a twin, either. The rev limiter on current crop twins are much lower and they rev faster. The RC8 and 1098S are similar in this regard. They make great power at 5k (anyone who rides at below 5k isn't riding hard) but tap out at 12-12500. They do this rather quickly and you are always finding yourself at the limiter quickly. While the 1000 GSXR will make good power and you'll gain maybe another 1k-2k rpm or more. It doesn't build as fast nor stay on through the range as much as the twin... In the end, it is all down to preference. The issue is that any twin that is comprable to the power of the like in-line is going to cost you a lot more money. Typically, it is $4k or more to gain the same performance. You can buy a $10k 600 or a $14k Ducati 848 and get the same performance. That $4k into the 600 in-line can be used to make that 600 a serious weapon or simply allow you to save $4k to put towards whatever you'd like and still not get left behind... The 1098 standard is $14k. It is very simlar in terms of power to that of the GSXR1000 used in my example. However, the GSXR is about $3k less and honestly is a better platform. You really need to buy an "S" model to equal what you get in a CBR, R1, GSXR, or ZX in their 1000s... That will lighten your wallet another $4k. $8k more and you are really equal to an extent. You usually get tricker suspension and components (Brembo, etc.), but again, you could take that $8k and dump it into the GSXR and you'd have better overall performance. It would be hair on fire type stuff and not for the timid, but riding a 1098S hard isn't easy, either. However, I can get a 1098S or an RC8 down to similar times. My new 1000 is easier to get to that point. I was running close to average times on my 1000 and after only riding it twice...

Not sure which 140 that Lincoln is, but it should be good. This is what I have and LOVE it!! http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler140/

They rev to the limiter to help seat the valves. Didn't you know that's the best way to break a motor in? You're making fun of this guy and he's ahead of his time. Well, ahead of someone...

Only if you ride like the other douche bags at 70 mph in full tuck down the interstate... Can someone please help these squids out? I mean, follow them home and when they finally stop, walk up and smack them in the head and tell them to quit making us all look like homos...

Wow, no love for Lizard. I need to work harder on the insults and degrading... Now, on the "other" board that Todd knows, I'd be ahead by a mile!! I love those old coots...

What, they tear you down? Doubtful most of those guys even bring the proper tools to do such a thing let alone spec your engine for size... I'd run a 150 4 stroke and call it a day.

Yes, EXO-700. Sorry, hit the wrong key... I also wouldn't say that the shells on an Arai, Shoei, Suomy are the same protection as the shell of a thermo plastic based shell even though they are both SNELL approved. The shells on the higher end helmets are typically composite or fiberglass and are designed in a manner that takes the energy of the impact and spreads it out evenly. A cheaper helmet may even have the same composites, but even with bag molding, they can be poorly designed and not distribute energy as efficiently or effectively. If that were the case, you could take a Vega helmet and put Arai ear and crown pads in it and it would be dead on the same. Not so...

Pro Circuit, but honestly, at the retail level, either is fine. Not any real difference in power. Mitch obviously is the owner of Pro Circuit, but unless you have them build one directly, what you are getting off the shelf is pretty much the same as what you'd get with an FMF... It's like running an off the shelf Yosh on your GSXR because the Yosh team runs them. The off the shelf systems are basic and a lot (Unless you get up into the high dollar systems) are made outside the Yosh facility and farmed out.

The problem is that while the helmet is actually quite good, the eye portal is a bit deeper than most lids to accomodate the internal visor. Thus, it kinda messes with your visual as opposed to a regular helmet. I like the 1000 a lot and the shell shape is pretty good. It's just that stupid visor. If they could make a series w/o the visor, they'd be on to something. The 600 is very good considering, though.

Asking people what is best in terms of gear - especially lids is like asking what is the best oil. Ask 10 people, get 10 different answers. 1pc suits are more favored for track only riding, but if you want the best bag for the buck and want to use the jacket for street, buy a 2pc. If you have a good street jacket, do yourself a favor and get the 1pc. Everything else is a good choice. Try them on and see what fits you best. It can be down to what feels best at the level of gear you are shopping. Helmets are personal choice. Guys who like shoei say shoei. Those who like arai say arai. I wear Suomy and have been since 99. I love them. However, don't fall for the bs about $5 for a $5 head. I works in the sports marketi g side with Suomy for a good number of years an learned a LOT about lids. Arai is a hand laid shell. It has thin spots as vacuum based shells are more cinsistant and offer better protection overall. Doesn't mean arai sucks - just means every helmet can be picked apart. Scorpion is a good helmet. They really are. I'd look at the top two models as the 400 is cheaply put together. But, they are worth looking at.

If you were buying it for the motor, I would definately pass on it... As for the NSR swap, why not the 150? Or, a TTR 125 motor. Better choices as the XR motor is very heavy compared to HP it puts out. Hell, wanna do something really cool? Do the CRF150 MX motor or do an 85 CR motor... That would put ya ahead of the mini guys!

Also, the calipers are not the same as what would have come set up for that bike if those forks were for the thing. Notice the spacers. They are HUGE! That means they were made in order to fit. I'm starting to think he uses this as show, too. The front rotors have zero wear... Cool machine and certainly an eye for detail and has big bucks, but I bet if you sit long enough, you can see he cobbled it together... Not as in a bad cobble - just that he had to make things fit due to them not being the correct thing for that bike...

Actually, the Desmo forks are cast now that I think about it. Those are 100% CNC machined. I think they're off some race bike for sure, but what, I have no idea...

After looking at it closer, it looks like he did a replica on his own. Afterall, the Xerox Bayliss one had head lights so, he had to get race plastic. It's possible he got authentic race plastic, but after looking at the real thing seen here: http://bp1.blogger.com/_Mvhjidbvdzc/R6FxOlHQsXI/AAAAAAAADx4/94m73avhXeI/s1600-h/Ducati+1098+F08+2.jpg You can see it isn't the same upper, tail or lower. Probably Sharskin or similar... Overall, really good looking machine. I just am baffled by the forks and why they are up so high...

That was available to set owners. It was a limited edition and fairly rare, but not unobtainium... I think he had the forks updated. It's weird how they are up so high in the triples. Hmmmmm. Are those maybe Desmo forks? Absolutely beautiful bike!

Here's a running one and at a price that is about average: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycles___Honda-xr-100_W0QQitemZ200268533373QQddnZMotorcyclesQQddiZ2283QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item200268533373&_trkparms=72%3A1187%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 So, you'd pay $200 for the non running one and $500 for a running motor. I'd pass now that I have looked at it...

Here's a 96 - they're the same: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-MOTOR-ENGINE-1996-100-XR100-XR-100-80-crf_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ230300384168 That's really cheap - here's a typical cost on one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-XR100-XR-100-80-CRF100-MOTOR-ENGINE-92-08-04_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem110301023227QQitemZ110301023227 Probably get a 2000 or close year one for about $500 like I said...

Or, it could have split the crank. That'll seize the motor... XR/CRF 100s are bullet proof. I know, I owned one and ran the living piss out of it and ran it under severe conditions. They'll hold up if maintained. He didn't. apparently. I'd say the motor's toast and you'll be looking at probably $500 to get anew one and more than that to rebuild the seized one. In other words, $200 sounds fair enough, but realize you can buy one for about $1000. You'd save maybe $300 at the end. And then there's the whole what your labor is worth. My suggestion? Buy it and tear it open. Lord knows you won't hurt it any. Might be something easy. Most likely it isn't just rings... It's a piston failure where it could be valves are toasted, piston is busted in there, rod broke, crank broke - etc., etc.

When did you start liking little boys? That's a weird response, dontcha think?

Didn't you read FX in my response? Snot gobbler.

That's not Moto ST, either. It's a FX race. Goob...

Putty's avatar rules!!