Moto-Brian

Hell, we had a kid on a 883 that totalled the thing in less than 100 miles. Just missed a turn and hit a pole. Bike destroyed and his pride nuked. He said he was doing maybe 60 mph and the turn he crashed in was not even a marked slower turn we all knew. Shit happens. Oh, he was a new rider also. Had a several year experienced rider that had been to the Gap for several years and was one of those guys that could embarras anyone on a sportbike with his ST1100. But, fate caught him off guard and he blew a turn down there, hit a rail and died. He did several track days and was an accomplished rider in my mind. He just got in over his head and ate it.

I understand the video a bit better at this point and think your assesment is dead on. I do NOT think this BS that it is a noob on a liter bike is the reasoning. Again, noob on a 250 would have ate a shit burger just as easily. It is a lack of skill and ability/experience that led to the issue. You can argue that the liter bike was too much speed, but consider a current gen 600. Kid could EASILY get in over his head with almost any current crop sportbike. I just hate the guys blaming liter bikes. I've had several friends step into a liter bike and do just fine. I also wouldn't discount that it could have easily been an "experienced" or a veteran rider on such a bike also. I've seen what people would consider an "experienced" rider do stupid shit or just plain ol make a poor decision and do something similar. It's just the factors that none of us know for sure and shouldn't discredit what happened as simply being a noob and a big CC motorcycle. Dunno. Maybe it was stated he was newer, maybe they stated some of the details and maybe I should go and read through the details. But, it is less bike size and more ability and skill level. Just remember one simple idea. You can have YEARS of experience. Doesn't always mean that all those years are years of GOOD experience. If you do shit wrong for years and never eat shit, doesn't mean you are doing it right...

I'm trying to sort out the info here... Were these kids trying to catch up and just got in too hot and had the trailer to contend with? I guess the video is too slow or has been slowed down as I am not sure where the liter bike comes into play. Fuck, the kid could have been on a Ninja 250 and still ass packed the trailer... Dunno. From the looks, he and the group were going too fast, saw the trailer and MAYBE the guy in the truck/trailer just got to the turn and didn't signal, etc. Closing speeds are something that most riders at a lower ability level have issue with. But, I will say that even at an advanced level, when you are closing on something that is going a shit load slower than it should be, it is tough to judge and react. I'm not defending - and I am not going to read whatever the comments were, etc. But, I really don't see where it is a liter bike and a newbie rider situation unless I have more details. I am assuming the kid was playing catch up and just got in way too hot? Whatever the case, he's as lucky as shit. Amazing...

Actually, guys have been known to squeeze the 750 and 1000 motors in them. However, not a direct bolt in like the YZF600 and FZR600...

I don't know how it works, but essentially, you should be able to call and give them the history. Essentially by looking at the lid, it should be easy to tell it has light use.

They now have a billet version. Looks pretty similar and if I was a betting man, I bet the electronics are VERY similar to XT's stuff... The cable and port seem almost identical...

Huh. That's really strange as it was only worn a few times and from the interior, you can tell so. Were the clips maybe just too new and tough to unclip? Bell has a warranty for 5 years so, I'd maybe check on that...

Loads of Roushs around where my parents are in Tampa and really everywhere as he made several stages and around 500 for each with exception to a few where he was doing sub 300. But, I saw the 1876# and thought to myself that if there are that many, the rareness isnt something I think of when I see almost 2k... But, according to Roush, if your GT is a manual, there were only 80 made that year. I assume the color code is Torch Red (GT with Grey interior and manual)? They made something like 650 of those I recall. Anyways, on the hood - you're right, I guess... It looks silly as if you are showing the motor off as these things are really for, the person passing by is looking from the outside... Seems weird. I'd try and get them swapped around in some way but they appear to probably be in the way on shutting the hood. Weird... But, if ya gotta bling the shit out of something, it all can't be pleasing to the eye... Nice car. Been a big Stang fan and have had several pre-94s and even had a few drag racers we built. The new generation of Stangs is cool, but unfortunately, they all look too similar... So many models and trims packages. The Stage 1 is cool since it is an appearance only package, but again, they all look so similar. Have fun with it! Buddy has one of the Bullet editions which is essentially the same thing as it is roush powered...

Ya know what? I didn't look at the rear tire size - I didn't even have that cross my mind, but a great question. I'd have to look or ask them what it has... Hmmmm... I am willing to bet it doesn't, but I might be wrong. The thing is so super clean, it's amazing. The calipers are even showroom fresh. The motor has dust on it from being in the shop, but is eat off condition. These guys were doing AMA stuff and it shows in the prep of the bike... I'll shoot you his info...

For racing, it would be a D Superstock or D Superbike. Lightweight type machine against SVs and such... Also vintage at this stage and could be ran in the LW Stars at Mid-O and possibly other classes...

Most people who have a van like this: Go on a vacation and maybe have something like this going on inside: Well, that's gay. So, I have a van like this: And the coolness inside of it is this: Just rubbing it in for those of you stuck inside and not riding...

Here's a pic of the side. Everything is in excellent shape and the thing is STOOOOPID clean!

Well, I have a dealership that used to be Dutchman Racing - if anyone here knows the history with that team, it's pretty cool. Anyways, they have a 1990 FZR400 that is fully track ready and has numerous build parts on it and enough spares to not get you caught out at a track day or race. It is in need of some body paint, but overall, is really in decent shape. In fact, has always been stored in room temps and out of the elements. They are asking $1500. Get with me and I will get you the dealer name and contact. Cool bike. I'd give 'er a shot, but we have enough projects! I will post a pic soon.

Dude, you have some sort if suspension issue with the tearing going on. Pressures are also something to consider, but I am not sure where your fact finding has led you, but Q2s aren't prone to tearing. Again, setup is key. If you want a tire that lasts 4-5 track days, good luck. As you get faster, the tires last less and less... But, good suspension setup is key for longevity also. I can show you shagged tires that are actually worn smooth on the sides through the treads and they are smooth as glass. Setup.

Meh. If it were an actually limited edition car that was a lot less available, I would do a decal. But, they are not hard to find and having the 1876th one is kinda weird to note. Did you fix the hood strut brackets yet? They are backwards...

Oh, if you are not sold on clip in vs non, don't worry. A lot of MTB riders run regular platforms pedals. Most the XC racers are doing clip in as they run harder and are running time trials, races, etc and it IS more efficient, but several MTB riders still run pedals. Including racers... The XC guys are weight weinies and tend to make sure they have the lightest pedals, shoes, shave the hair on their legs, etc. It's all about weight. If they looked at my RIP 9 and what I use it for, they'd throw up in their mouths. It's an All Mountain and I am a Clydesdale... Stick with pedals and you'll be fine. But, several friends run clip-less and love them. I have tried and tried and I like to be free on my feet. Hurts when I climb, but I ain't racin so, I don't care...

Adam- We are planning to ride Mohican on the Sunday after the Mid-O twilight. Thats the 16th... It's not hard core guys at all. None of us are racers and none of us are serious. It will be laid back, easy riding... If you go this weekend, let me know how it goes. Mohican is a tough start trail for a starting out rider, but has it's stops to allow breaks and rest. Just don't push too hard as you'll be spent by mile 4... I haven't ridden much at all with everything going on. Terrible shape vs. years past. But, I love this sport and wanna ride so bad! Will be getting back to Alumn also, but sounds like morning rides are out for you. I am also going to be trying out Vulture's Knob up in Wooster. Heard it was good also...

I am due to talk to the boys at Mid-O Sunday and sort some details and will have more info after. But, essentially, we can work on ANYTHING you as a rider have questions over. Understand that while I have raced for several years and been around some of the best suspension tuners around or notable, I don't have all the answers. As proof in my knuckleheaded ideas at VMD this year. But, I have learned some basics. I still rely heavily on guys like Reuben and ask stupid questions - stupid from a guy that has been doing this since 93-ish - all the time. But, my target result is to one, make this something EVERY racer, track day rider and spirited street rider can do on their own. It isn't crazy scary and isn't black science in terms of what I want to discuss. You are going to probably have questions that would be better answered by someone like Reuben and I will defer them to someone else as to not mislead anyone. BUT, setting sag, understanding what rebound and compression do, how to adjust things, what to look for, etc can all be done easily by you as a rider. My goal is to get everyone comfortable with adjusting their own suspension. I've been doing this a LOOOOONG time and just do not feel that these simple things should be costly to you. These are things that track day and racers need to get the basics on. You can learn more via videos of Dave Moss and others, but these will be basic ideas. Nothing deeper really. We may cover some wear that is common and even common with Mid-Ohio. I am going to try and get a few guys to attend that have been racing AMA and such and can add to the conversation and the sessions. I want you to ask questions and get real world responses as myself and the other guys have been around Mid-O enough to know what issues you are probably having. It's suspension. No different than the oil, tires, chain, etc that you maintain constantly on your bike.

Yes, I run different oil levels to help sort through different tracks. I actually run less oil at Nelson and more at Mid-O... Dunno if that works really, but seems to. I run less pre-load at Nelson as well. Wrobel trick and it actually worked!!! As for the GSXR ride and fork height. Dropping the forks flush in the triples isn't enough. Thus, the need for extending caps. Actually, would have to look at notes on the rear eye to eye on the shock, but 10mm doesnt sound too far off, I suppose. I know we would use spacers and keep the bottom threads exposed to a minimum for adjustability and stability.

SOLD!!! Thanks, Sparky!

You and Nick should bring your stuff! Trust me, the way you set sag is very easy and something ANYONE can do. You just need two able bodies with one capable of reading a tape measure. Pretty simple. I just want to show how easy it is, how quickly you can make changes and possibly guide someone to a better setup bike or at least plant the seed in someone's head that suspension is more critical than anything... bchristy is dead on - setting sag is a baseline. The rebound and compression clickers are optimal in finding the sweet spot for YOU and how YOU ride. You cannot set every single bike the same and expect them all to be perfect. I ride the front more than most so, I need a different setup in my forks. Some do not and wouldn't benefit from my settings. For example... It's like riding style. There is a point where you can teach basics, but to tell someone they are doing it wrong may not be correct. Look at the top 5 in AMA and MotoGP... All different. There are starting points for everything. That's what I am trying to accomplish.

HECK NO!! It's a great place to discuss these things! My goal is to help the track day guys and even aggressive street guys in a quest for better tuned suspension. I don't have all the answers, but can probably get a guy really close to where they need to be in terms of baseline. From there, expert advice on such things like you are giving are welcome and above all, needed!

130 is normal, but understand that at each track, oil level can be different. I am running 120 at one track and 130 for example at another. Depends on conditions and track, really. Oil level is a tuning tool as much as springs are... I would also assume that you bought fork extender caps for your 750? If not, DIRE need of them for that chassis...

These are what you really need to use for true oil level height. Motion Pro is the best/cheapest, but you can also get the other needed service tools at Traxxion Dynamics: http://www.traxxion.com/racingsportbikeservicetools.aspx If you serviced the oil in the forks, I assume that you drained them completely? You really should probably tear completely apart and clean the internals as well as that is what you would get with a true refresh...

I would like to do something for that twilight as it would be the easiest time to do this. I would like to do something one of the two days at minimum on the Mon/Tues. All is based on work schedule. I'd love to have you help out! It's really basic. We just need to be able to get the bikes measured and follow a few ideas on sag and where to start based on the rider's ability and what class they ride. Mid-O can stand to allow for more pre-load than most tracks so, we need to take that into consideration. I also know several riders run stock components and while we can adjust, we typically will be putting a band-aide on the bike as it will only be limited as to what we can accomplish. Like the guy at Mid-O the last time. He had too stiff a spring rate and even with the pre-load all the way out, we were still at 25 mm sag which I wanted to have more not only due to being able to adjust if need be, but the fact that I felt it was too stiff... Coyote can maybe chime in and speak as to what his thoughts were. I never got back over to him to check it out...