Moto-Brian

Bingo. Apparently, that is too much to expect out of a "child" as some members think. They probably just laugh when their 14 year old takes drinks of beer from adults' cups at parties...

Again, the peanut and allergic reaction example I cited is an example of a child making better decisions than we as adults make. Can be done if the parents teach the kids well. She had a heart condition. Lessons taught early and instilled in the minds of children can have positive results. Roll your eyes all you want. But, there are several examples of kids that make better decisions than adults every day.

Oh, and since I cluttered the thread so much and never did say welcome - welcome, Ninjachic!

Before you go out in the rain with leaves on the ground, I suggest Armor All on the tires and brake rotors. Keeps 'em shiny and clean looking. It's all about the bling, you know... Reminds me of a crash on a moped I had when I was 15 years old. POURING down rain and I decided while chasing a buddy who was 16 driving his dad's Blazer that I would catch up to him by blowing the stop sign he was rolling to. I was PLANNING on timing it where he was starting to roll away and I would buzz bomb him by blowing the intersection... Well, he stopped and stayed stop longer than I anticipated. Locked the front, tucked the front and lowsided and slid that beotch right up under his bumper. Busted the petcock off and gushed gas everywhere and ripped my jeans wide open. It was awesome!

Here's the bottom line. She was 14, had a heart condition. 14 years of proper education by her parents would or SHOULD net her to think about her decisions. If the parents know of her condition and taught her what to eat/drink and what to avoid and why, it wouldn't be an issue. I know a few kids around her age that have allergic reactions to peanuts and they ask the right questions when we go to dinner and avoid the things they know can cause issues. Of course, they have a few times where it gets by them, but it isn't like they see a bag of peanuts and dive in with hands full and chomp it down... Point is that parents need to be parents and raise a kid the way they should so they make proper decisions. You are right, we are adults and we can make better decisions vs a 14 year old. But, we are talking a lifestyle that when properly taught, she should be better at adjusting her way of life to adapt to her issues than even we are. We eat too much, drink too much, put in our body, things we shouldn't. At her age, she should be more diligent at what she consumes than we are at our age...

Still should have kept it. The frame if a clean title is worth about $750 or so. The forks, wheels, etc are all worth enough that you'd have made some cash on the deal. But, would have taken a bit of time. Glad you at least tried to get it running before you left...

It is a system that is notoriously loud due to the packing material being VERY inexpensive. Thus, it typically gets blown out rather easily and quickly. You need to repack with a quality packing material and make sure it has ample amounts of it before reassembly. The fit and finish is OK, but if you compare to a low end or entry level system like Yosh has, it is similar. But, a quality piece like an Arrow, Leo, Akra, higher end Yosh, etc - all are going to have better craftsmanship and above all, better materials used and thus, better results overall. That low amount of packing is cool when you wanna be loud and proud, but does little in terms of back pressure and performance... Looks good and echoing the other comments, not bashing, but maybe take the time to repack at the minimum.

This is true on several GSXRs. The best thing to do when this occurs is to simply remove the butterflies or even go as far as removing the axle the butterflies are screwed on to. You can send the servo to a guy and have him rebuild it, but it is just easier to remove and put tape over the light. I may still have a throttle body bank as I had my set covered under an emissions warranty that most people do not know about. But, it is only like 5 years unlimited miles. You'd be out of being able to do that...

I was very fond of my 2005 750. I had a lot of track miles and races on mine and loved every minute. Whatchu you need, Willis?

PS, sorry for derailing your thread once again. Comence leg hump...

You are right. Physics is in use and doesn't lie. But, you only have so much traction. As you lean, that traction is less and less and when you apply load in the form of braking or throttle chopping, etc., you load the front to a possible point of loss. Yes, you load the front, you increaseload. Not always traction. You applying load will increase the potential for more traction, but you can also apply load and lose traction due to pushing beyond the ability to retain traction. Make sense? Yes, I can trail a brake while full lean even to a degree. But, I am flirting with the loss of traction. You are braking to scrub speed as if braking while leaned over, you are trying to cheat the system. Braking while leaned over means you are trying to push further and further to reduce the time from point "a" to point "b", for example. Or, you screw up and have to brake while leaned over because you got in too hot. Again, yes... Physics is not going to lie. But, as with physics, the human element isn't going to lie, either. You get in too hot, you probably made a mistake and made a misjudgement. Typically, that means you are somewhat frazzled or paniced and will probably pull too much brake while leaned over... That's not a good thing to teach. Trail braking is essentially stretching physics. You are riding a gyroscope. Trail braking is an act where you are pushing the limits of traction as whil leaned over vs. striaght up and down is creating a smaller contact patch. Smaller contact patch means more likely to lose traction under severe load. Basically, you cannot just think that you gai traction while braking and if leaned over, you are still gaining traction. There is a point where it pushes too far. Based on ability and knowledge where that limit is can be the difference between crash and making it through the turn. I can promise that a lot of people haven't made that happen or been in that spot enough to understand when it is starting and prepare to save it when it happens. Thus, a VERY advanced level thing to do and most aren't at that level where they should be taught about it as there are NUMEROUS other things they need to focus on...

It's annoying. Bike under steering just makes shit more work at speed. Gotta really almost force the bike to complete a turn. I'd rather have spin and lighter front end. Crazy that it happens that way. People kind of get a confused look on their faces when I tell them I had too much traction and need more wheel spin.

Uh, this is information that should never be posted. This is very dangerous and as seen by several posts, not understood. This is really dangerous in my mind and should NOT be practiced. What is being stated while somewhat accurate is really not accurate to a point that is something that should be shared or recommended...

This is getting way off course and a LOT of bad info here... Steering with the rear as they say is 100% true. To a point... You can steer with the throttle and again, something you would learn at the track vs. the street. The loading of the front places a lot of load to a point you use up the credits of traction. Loading the rear and taking that load off is a key ingredient. Watch the racers as they exit under load. The front wheel will typically be pointing towards the iside of the turn they are starting to exit. You will catch a rider crossed up on further exit if the tire is lifted under accel. But, I am talking exit just after mid turn or exit while the front is skating. The wheel turns in the direction of the turn... There is no steering input and the bike is carrying the turn and handling the exit well and NOT under steering. We can produce an understeer reaction with the RC8 when I would not have enough preload. The end would squat too much and while I was getting STOOOPID traction on exit and hooking up rather well, it was pushing the bike out and creating that understeer. Now, add preload and the rear will spin a lot more, but allows for more steering input even with the front really skating more than tracking... The rear was helping finsih the turn or allowing me to exit better and point out where I needed to be. Rear traction and load is essential to a good turn exit. But, that entry to a turn is critical. Is a turn a braking turn or a drive turn? Most are driv turns... It is how you exit that is important to the efficiency to getting through it. Braking too much or with too much focus is going to destroy the efficiency of a turn. What is being stated here is really mis information and while I think it is unintentional, it really just needs to be avoided unless it is acurate without any doubt...

You have no idea of how many street riders (even accomplished ones) develop bad habits... It is crazy. Not saying ONE BIT that street riders have zero clue. I am just saying that you can learn a great deal at track days with the right guide walking you through it. I am always willing to help as much as I can. The issue I always seem to face is that for whatever stupid reason, people are intimidated. I'm a nice guy, brush my teeth and use Right Guard. The idea is that you get to use some techniques that quite honestly if done on the street, are dangerous.

I think you mean well, but the facts are this... A TYPICAL street rider in that example is going to eat shit no matter what. If they are too hot into a corner, they are going to panic. Too hot means probably too fast an entry for their ability to process, digest and come up with a solution. Now, the typical response is braking. Brakes at a lean angle with a tense rider and most likely target fixing on the outside of the turn or the oncoming car is a recipe for disaster. Fact is that unless they have some sort of advanced training, the result is going to be the same. You need to watch talking trail braking with ANY average rider. I know it is taught at advanced schools like Swantz and Yamaha Champions, but for a green rider or not so experienced rider or even an Intermediate track day rider, trail braking is something that is VERY advanced to be making it sound so simple to pull off... You need to focus on getting braking done before you lean over and work your way up to trail braking. If you got in too hot, guess what? You already have shown you lacked the ability to not get into that spot to begin with. Now, we all make mistakes. It is how much ability or reserve you have to allow you to get out of that situation unscathed. Take this as an example... Running the back straight at Mid-Ohio. Loose your brake pad's braking material off th backing plate. On a liter bike to a normal braking marker and pulling th lever, you have it come clear back to th bar and not a single moment of slowing down. Reserve, ability and experience will determine what occurs. How do you handle it? How to you react? Do you panic? Do you get the heart beat up and a little tense, but kick in the reserve and utilize the ability level and get through without issue? Telling someone to just brake more until you feel happy with your speed. It's not that simple. It's very complex. Chopping throttle, trail braking, brake application - all load the front. Loading the front on corner entry is something that can turn bad VERY easily. It happens all the time and usually, ill experienced riders will blame the road surface, will blame grip of th tire, will blame lean angle. I've watched guys trail brake so deep, so late, so far over that they are literally almost tucking the front. I've been in spots where I have leaned in so deep under braking that I've lost the front and collected it back and continued on as if nothing happened. It was one simple issue - the same issue that plagues the crashes we hear blamed on cold tires, lean, stone, etc... Rider error. Rider input. That's the application of brake while leaned over... Know how to do it? Know how to save a tucked front? Go for it. But, realize this. The same situation where I saved the front and kept on trucking? Same thing happened almost identically and I lost it. Tried REALLY hard to pull it in and push down with the knee to save it. Didn't happen. Lowsided and ate a shit burger... You flirt with the edge of traction and sometimes, you beat physics. Sometimes you do not. But, I know where that is. I know not to overreact. I know what to TRY to save it. Ill experienced riders? Panic. Safety reactions occur. Pulling the brake more than they should. Chopping the throttle. Tense up on the bars. All are common... Just saying that getting the track experience like Todd suggested is by far the best thing almost EVERY rider (new, experienced, average, etc) can benefit from learning the ins and outs of what happens with their bike under severe service...

Desmo-Brian, Snuggles... hehehehhehehe.

I agree with Papa. Jack's advice is very sound. In fact, if you are "not happy with your speed" and get mid turn and brake harder or more to slow down where you are, guess what the result is? We call that a low side... Anyways, it was good and precise and above all, accurate...

No offense, but lap times are not a good determining factor UNLESS using it to show consistancy. Meaning, a single fast lap is something that anyone can pull off. It is how you run in the distance of a race. Also, using your lap times and seeing it faster than some experts is also not a solid way to determine the bump. Yes, there are always going to be fast novices that run a faster lap than an expert or set of experts that run the back of the pack. ANY form of racing has that. Kid running in the C class 250 MX class running faster than the bottom 1/3 of the B class... Point is this. The mentality SHOULD be that if you are not racing with the novice group, have cleared them each and every race for the most part and are finishing in my mind, in the top three to five EVERY weekend you show? You need to step up. But understand that there is a dynamic that several novices may not understand... The step up isn't always a big one. But, the formula to run the same, consistant laps is. The ability to pull out just that little extra to get in front of the guy in front of you, etc is a step up that is typically huge. Takes time in other words... If it is your first year as a novice and you are waxing everyone? Jump up. If you seem to be hot one weekend and cold the other? Maybe running one more year is advised. If the other novices are upset that you return as a novice? They need to step up their game. Now, you step up and always win? You should bump at the latest - mid season. Be respectful and advance yourself. No real formula represents a reason to bump. It's a combo. I think Todd looks at a number of things and based on his spirit to make it as fair and fun as possible, he will do th right thing.

Austria for me, but Floundy has me beat.

Me too!!!

Ouch!!!

Thanks, man. I'd love to get something like that started. But, I think the amount of stuff I will have on my plate will prevent me from taking that idea to the table so soon. But, I will be looking to talk to the boys at Mid-O and trying to create some sort of presence.

Wow. Your trolling extends beyond the Junkies site. Imagine that. Just when I was writing you off as done for, you open your double chins and spew shit. Big shock.