ShawnR

I recently bought this 99 R6 from a dude in Westerville as a winter project. Needs some carb work and probably valves adjusted. I'm just planning on giving it a complete going over and then probably selling it off in the spring. As I dig into it, I am finding some weird shit. Worst was that it had an R1 upper triple tree clamp on it. Didn't fit the fork tubes and handled like shit. Los of the bolts are loose, like finger tight if that. Mismatch of sizes and lengths. The body panels just don't fit exactly right and there is some weird patches of blue spray paint at places on the engine. I'd just like to track down somebody that might know a little about the history of it so I know what all to look into. It lived somewhere close to Marion before the Westerville dude bought it a couple of years ago. An info at all would be appreciated.

Forgot to update the post. Street Pilot picked them up mid December (and left BEER!).

I have a Scorpion MX Extra X dirt bike rear tire size 100/100-18.It has never been mounted and still has the sticker from Iron Pony on it showing a price of $64.99. I also have 2 front dirt bike tires in size 80/100-21.GEOMAX MX3SF and GEOMAX MX53F. Both appear to have been mounted at some time, but also appear to have full tread. All free to a good home if you are willing to come and get them. 40 miles N of Cols in Chesterville. (zip 43317)

1 Year update on the Harbor Freight Vulcan TIG200. I am actually quite pleased with it so far. Not a lot of aluminum welding, but enough to confirm that it works. Now I don't have much to compare to (we used Lincoln 275's in class), but this one has done everything I have asked of it. The torch gets pretty hot on long runs so I have to let it cool just so I don't melt it. I don't do enough to justify a water cooled torch.I will be upgrading from the regulator to a flow meter soon. This one has a 15 second post flow that is not adjustable. I don't know if that is the reason, but I do go through a lot more argon that I expected. Internet people bitch about the pedal but it works just fine for me. I had planned on returning it to Harbor Freight before my year was up, but I am now planning on just keeping it.

I ended up buying the Vulcan Protig200 from Harbor Freight. Supposed to have a 1 year money back policy so I didn't figure that I could go to wrong. Seems to work fine so far, but haven't used it a lot yet. Used DC stick a bit for the first time and didn't really notice much difference from the old AC buzz box. Plan on just using it for hobby work and keeping my eyes open for a good deal on a Miller or Lincoln before the year is up.

I picked up an electric over to use for powder coating that I no longer need. Dude I got it from said one of the top burners doesn't work, but oven was fine. Pretty sure it has a cord. Up north in Morrow county by 71 & st rt 95 interchange. Free to whoever wants it.

Link to detailed pics: https://goo.gl/photos/y6ZDnFZtsCbVUwadA

Neither.,I just pulled the ad. Mainly because I am in a VMware training class all week, but I also noticed a fork seal leaking. New seals come tomorrow and I'll change them out Friday after I get home. Back up on CL after the forks are back together. They aren't too bad to do since the bike has a center stand to support it while the forks are off.

Just posted on CL this morning. Asking $1600 knowing that someone will offer $1500. It's a nice bike. I expect my kid will try to talk me into keeping it for him. https://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/6087980226.html

All back together and running. Carbs are synced and the new air & oil filters are supposed to show up today. I haven't actually ridden it yet, but will probably go for a run this weekend. I'll pull tags off of something else for the test rundown. Shoot me a note if you want to come up and give it a look, Sunday looks to be beautiful.

I am having the overwhelming itch to buy myself a TIG welder. I have a old Lincoln AC stick welder and a decent older Miller MIG, but I want to be able to do aluminum and stainless. I am mainly looking at the Eastwood TIG 200 and AlphaTIG 200X. Both are in the $600-$700 range without the argon tank. The old me would go with a big heavy older beast of a machine, but I am thinking now that the new technology might just actually be better. This is purely a hobby/fabricating welder. Any big jobs would be done by one of the other welders sitting a few feet away. So, has anybody used anything like these and has any useful information? Please no telling me to spend a ton of $$$ on a high end unit, I ain't got it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00REX6USW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=NP3PWZS6AWX0&coliid=I18ADLJ3UV6W1N http://www.eastwood.com/tig200acdc-53012.html

It is mounted, carbs are cleaned and mounted and exhaust is on. I am a bitch of a time cleaning up the old valve cover gasket, I SHOULD have done it before I mounted it up and has it on its side. Now I am having to be careful with all of the little pieces of gasket crap falling in beside the cams. I am probably going to lay the bike on its side and flush everything out with kerosene to make sure all of the pieces are out. I'm still not positive it will even run yet. I"ll have around $750 in it after new air filter and 2 oil changes and plugs. Hoping to sell it in the $1300 to $1400 range once it gets warm and is all pretty.

I have found another good engine up in Toledo and will probably run up there to get it Monday (MLK day) since I am off work so it should be a fairly easy swap and have it up and running again. It will probably be for sale again in the spring, but I'm pulling it off the market for now. Thanks all for the advice & suggestions.

Pulled cylinders off with no issues at all. #3 piston wouldn't move on the crankshaft at all, all others looked good. I could access the rod bolts from underneath and pulled rods 2&3. Here are the bearings from #3 as they came off the crank (fused together). Crankshaft is toast there too. Since you can't get replacement bearings for this anymore, repairing really isn't an option. Donor crankshaft with bearings is available (used), but I would really rather find a decent engine and just do a swap. Or else part it out. Not willing to rebuild with used parts and cross my fingers that nothing else was damaged. Quite a bit of copper in the oil pan from the destroyed bearings.

I did clean them up with a rag, they all had a LOT of carbon build up on them. Like crumbs of crunchy stuff. With a pair of vice grips on the crank, I can feel it move just a hair when I bump the starter, and the 2&3 pistons also move (just a hair). Not so with either of the outside pistons, Having my fingers on them, there is nothing moving at all.

Cylinders 1 & 4 from the outside looking in. No real scoring that I could see. I've melted a few pistons over the years (2 strokes) and screwed up cylinder walls, but these look pretty good. Middle 2 pistons are up close to the top so nothing to see.

Update: Pulled the head, cams & valves look good. Soaked pistons, heated & cooled, hammered with a block of wood on top of pistons and nothing gives at all. They are pretty close to the top & bottom of the stroke, so there isn't really much force towards rotating the crank to get things moving. My opinion is that it is probably toast, so I don't have much to lose. I may pull the engine & try to split the case with the cylinders still attached. I could take each rod off of the crank and remove them individually then. I keep watching craigslist/ebay for replacement engine. This was meant to be a fix & flip so not a big deal if it gets parted out.

When I picked it up, he said that the oil pressure light had "flickered" while at idle sometime, but is actually locked up while he was riding it. I have had penetrating oil on the pistons for a week now and no luck. Cams and crank will wiggle just a hair, but pistons seem completely frozen. I'll probably pull the head next and start tapping/pounding/heating/cooling to see if anything works. If it is locked up this tight, it is probably toast. Crank & rod bearings are close to $200 themselves, so I'm not seeing a rebuild being worth it.

Here is one of my personal favorites. Kind of hard to see, but look right at the base of the tree stand.

l just filled the cylinders with the trans fluid / acetone mix and will let it soak over the weekend. The starter seems to hit pretty hard, but nothing moves at all. I've tried bumping the rear tire in gear since there doesn't seem to be any good place to get on the crankshaft to give it any pressure. Still watching craigslist / ebay for an engine. I'm sure there are some sitting around where the bike is beat to crap, carbs gummed up and dead battery. I just need to find it. Keep any suggestions coming.

I bought this as a possible winter project bike on the chance that the engine wasn't really seized up. But, the engine is really seized up. Cams will turn, but crank & pistons are tight and I haven't got them to move yet. So, I am either looking for a decent replacement engine, or else selling the whole bike as a parts bike for someone who already has one, or parting it out myself. It does have a clean Ohio title in my name. Has a new battery and starter solenoid (from previous owner). $400 as is. Or, if someone has a lead on a motor, please send that my way. I would really rather fix it, but I can see making enough profit after crank/bearings/pistons to make it worth while.

I have been plugging away at my project car for the past several years now. Bought in 88 while in the army in Ft. Lee Virgina, daily driver for years and then parked in the barn around 93. As of now, interior is done, front suspension rebuilt, trans rebuilt, painted. Just bought a set of craigslist rims & tires. Engine is functional, but needs some love (carb rebuild, vacuum lines, plugs & wires). I am waiting for paint to fully cure before putting badges back on, I kind of like the clean badge free look though....

I have my 83 T-type Regal that I am finally getting off of my can to get finished. I bought the car back in 88 while stationed at Ft. Lee in Virginia. Interior & suspension are done, repaint comes this spring. 28 years, about time. Engine (3.8 carb'ed turbo) has a whopping 180 horsepower. I'm going to leave it stock for now, but I am seriously thinking of throwing in an LS motor. This pic was in Colorado Springs (worked at Phil Long Ford) probably around 1992.

Followup on the dude that killed him: Parker R. Muntz, 26, of Columbus, was indicted on Aggravated Vehicular Homicide, a third-degree felony, and Driving While Intoxicated, a first-degree misdemeanor. Muntz is alleged to have been driving with marijuana in his system when he was in a crash that killed Scott L. Curtis. This case was investigated by Tpr. James King.