Koreo Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Ive been trying to contact Hoblick but with no success. I know hes been busy and all with the move and job. I need to replace the steering stem/head bearings(whatever you want to call them) on my 300. This is a problem with the older 250s and continues to be a problem on the 300s across the world. I'm pretty tech savvy. All the work on my bike I've done so far. I've never taken the forks out or anything like this before though. I'm confident that I can do it, just would like an extra hand from someone who may have done something like this before. I would call and complain like many others have and get the bearings replaced at a dealer but they are just going to put in the same shitty bearings that are going to crap out in no time again. So I'm ordering tapered bearings Shooting for next weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Its really not a hard job at all, there's no real trick to it. If you were closer I'd say bring it over this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Are you pressing races in/out as well? My wife mentioned this to me as well so her 300 will get replacements soon too. Haven't researched to know what the issue is, but is it under/over torqued stem nuts or just crap OEM bearings?Good replacements at a fair price would be AllBalls or Timkens. Not a difficult chore, the hardest part is to get the bike supported so the forks can come off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koreo Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Improper amount of grease causing them to go to shit. 250s had the same issue and they never fixed it.Hard racing has the tapered bearings for about 35 bucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koreo Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 And yes races will be removed and what not.http://www.kawasakininja300.com/forum/12-ninja-300-appearance-modifications/3317-head-bearing-replacement-pictures.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigerpaw Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Have you had issues with the OEM setup yet? I plan on waiting, since it seems fine now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koreo Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Ohhhhh yea. Thats why I'm replacing them. Horrible front end wobble/shake. Bike gets unsettled in high speed turns if i hit a bump in the road. Got on 161 from 270 towards New albany the other day and its kind a long sweeper. Hit a bump and the front just went crazy. Had to stand the bike back up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koreo Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Improper amount of grease causing them to go to shit. 250s had the same issue and they never fixed it.Hard racing has the tapered bearings for about 35 bucks IMAG08641.jpgIMAG08661.jpgIMAG08671.jpgAnother member in the 300 community: Yes, those are gouge marks on the race. They are uneven and were present at the top of the stem and bottom of the stem. Both races had brinnelling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackFlash Posted September 9, 2013 Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 I feel so much better, now that I looked it up. Brinelling is a material surface failure caused by Hertz contact stress that exceeds the material limit.This failure is caused by just one application of a load great enough to exceed the material limit. The result is a permanent dent or "brinell" mark. It is a common cause of roller bearing failures, and loss of preload in bolted joints when a hardened washer is not used. False brinelling is damage caused by fretting, with or without corrosion, that causes imprints that look similar to brinelling, but are caused by a different mechanism. Brinell damage is characterized by permanent material deformation (without loss of material) and occurs during one load event, whereas false brinelling is characterized by material wear or removal and occurs over an extended time from vibration and light loads.The basic cause of false brinelling is that the design of the bearing does not have a method for redistribution of lubricant without large rotational movement of all bearing surfaces in the raceway. Lubricant is pushed out of a loaded region during small oscillatory movements and vibration where the bearings surfaces repeatedly do not move very far. Without lubricant, wear is increased when the small oscillatory movements occur again. It is possible for the resulting wear debris to oxidize and form an abrasive compound which further accelerates wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koreo Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 (edited) Lol. Hey I didnt know either. LOl That was someones elses post from the thread. I just saw the pictures and 1+1= shit fucked up. I got my bearings today though so... Edited September 9, 2013 by Koreo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigerpaw Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I just ordered a set. I have a front end shudder under heavy front-braking, wondering if this will help. Changed to EBC HH pad, did not help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koreo Posted September 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 bueller... got my bearings.. still looking for someone to help out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuikAccord Posted September 17, 2013 Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 I'd help you out if you could come to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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