JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 8 minutes ago, 2talltim said: What did I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marlboro man Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 3 minutes ago, 2talltim said: YES IS DOES! Car oil isn't made for wet clutches and thrashing transmission gears. 4 minutes ago, 2talltim said: YES IS DOES! Car oil isn't made for wet clutches and thrashing transmission gears. As long as you don't use synthetic oil and buy the cheap shit it don't matter I did a test on A 450 nighthawk clutch springs where worn out when I bought it & clutch slipped but I managed to put 6000miles on it and use the cheapest motor oil because it had a bad clutch and I wanted to see if it mattered but sold the bike before I put a new clutch in it did the same test on a $50 250rebel that clutch friction plates where all the way gone I had some yz80 friction plates soaked them In cheap ass oil slap them in the Honda used it as a trailbike and a gravel road bike for 7yrs till it burnt up in a barn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-high-mileage-vehicle/#Specifications SAE 10W40 SN which exceeds SE correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marlboro man Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 5 minutes ago, JackImpact said: http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-high-mileage-vehicle/#Specifications SAE 10W40 SN which exceeds SE correct? I don't know what's in Hi mileage cleansing stuff I always steer away from fancy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 6 minutes ago, marlboro man said: I don't know what's in Hi mileage cleansing stuff I always steer away from fancy Just happened to be on the cheaper side but still brand name. Didnt wanna pay almost 8 bucks a quart for mobil one I just want to confirm that SN means it exceeds All previous S? including SE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Got that scrubbing gritty stuff off the thing that holds the filter in place Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 I'm not commenting anymore and I think others might feel the same way. If you can't comprehend simple things like oil change and oil selection you have no buisness turning wrenches on any motorized vehicle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 (edited) C'mon guys. Give him a break. This isn't an 800 HP pro-mod fire-breathin' Suzuki he's working on...it's a 305 cc twin producing maybe 30 HP on the high side. That oil should work fine. The issue of using automotive oil comes from the friction-reducing agents in modern oil--it doesn't play well with the wet clutches in a motorcycle, causing slippage. However, those oils contain molybdenum and are always labeled "Energy Saving" on the package, and what you bought isn't one of those. And the caution against using synthetic oil isn't valid, either, as most modern high HP bikes recommend it; however, if you change oil at least every 6 months or 5000 miles, you don't need the pricey stuff. As for your valve check, if all you did was check the clearance and you didn't adjust anything, then you haven't hurt anything. Whatever noise you're hearing was there before you did the work and you're simply hyper-vigilant from concern at this point. When you do make a valve adjustment, you typically want to insert the feeler that results in only a slight drag and not force it. You also must have the cylinder you're checking at top dead center (TDC) so the cam lobes are pointing away from valve bucket. You want the clearance ideally to be in the middle of the range, but looser is always better than too tight, as the valve clearance gets smaller/tighter over time from the valve seats wearing and recessing into the head. It does sound like you want to learn and you'd prolly benefit from finding someone local to you who has some wrenching skills to oversee your work at first. Good luck! Edited March 30, 2016 by Bubba 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 58 minutes ago, 2talltim said: I'm not commenting anymore and I think others might feel the same way. If you can't comprehend simple things like oil change and oil selection you have no buisness turning wrenches on any motorized vehicle. Oil selection seems to be highly disputed online when it comes to motorcycles. So I have to ask because my only concern is not damaging it. I don't need it to win a race. This is only my second motorcycle. My first one is a 2016. So everything I see or do on this bike is new to me. So I have to ask those who know better, and the most available ones are on this forum. I would take it into Mike at Mike's bikes if he was not a month out from winter build up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 3 hours ago, Bubba said: C'mon guys. Give him a break. This isn't an 800 HP pro-mod fire-breathin' Suzuki he's working on...it's a 305 cc twin producing maybe 30 HP on the high side. That oil should work fine. The issue of using automotive oil comes from the friction-reducing agents in modern oil--it doesn't play well with the wet clutches in a motorcycle, causing slippage. However, those oils contain molybdenum and are always labeled "Energy Saving" on the package, and what you bought isn't one of those. And the caution against using synthetic oil isn't valid, either, as most modern high HP bikes recommend it; however, if you change oil at least every 6 months or 5000 miles, you don't need the pricey stuff. As for your valve check, if all you did was check the clearance and you didn't adjust anything, then you haven't hurt anything. Whatever noise you're hearing was there before you did the work and you're simply hyper-vigilant from concern at this point. When you do make a valve adjustment, you typically want to insert the feeler that results in only a slight drag and not force it. You also must have the cylinder you're checking at top dead center (TDC) so the cam lobes are pointing away from valve bucket. You want the clearance ideally to be in the middle of the range, but looser is always better than too tight, as the valve clearance gets smaller/tighter over time from the valve seats wearing and recessing into the head. It does sound like you want to learn and you'd prolly benefit from finding someone local to you who has some wrenching skills to oversee your work at first. Good luck! Thank you for the help! I did adjust them and believe I made them too tight so now that I have some clarification I will go back and adjust them properly. I was able to get a photo from another KZ305 owner and he showed me where to align the TDK since the service manual is a bit off as it doesnt show a photo from our exact bike. I am going to use the oil I bought to run it through once the valves are done and see how it acts, that way its lubricated properly and when everything is in order, by my hand or another, I will put motorcycle specific oil in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobravenom452 Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 That's just the clutch plates lashing, is normal some bikes do it more than others. It's because there is no pressure applied to the clutch plates when in neutral, so with no pressure pushing the plates together that make a rattling noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaler Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 In the future the best cheap oil which can be purchased anywhere is Shell Rotila 15-40. It has great oil analyst rating and caries the JASO-MA rating. This is the conventional white bottle. You can also use the T6 synthetic but is not needed. the oil looks like you have some gas contamination and I would seriously consider rebuilding the fuel petcock and possibly replacing you needle fill valves, as both are notorious for failing and filling the crankcase with fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 10 minutes ago, whaler said: In the future the best cheap oil which can be purchased anywhere is Shell Rotila 15-40. It has great oil analyst rating and caries the JASO-MA rating. This is the conventional white bottle. You can also use the T6 synthetic but is not needed. the oil looks like you have some gas contamination and I would seriously consider rebuilding the fuel petcock and possibly replacing you needle fill valves, as both are notorious for failing and filling the crankcase with fuel. 15w40 is not listed in the manual for what oils can be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 11 minutes ago, whaler said: In the future the best cheap oil which can be purchased anywhere is Shell Rotila 15-40. It has great oil analyst rating and caries the JASO-MA rating. This is the conventional white bottle. You can also use the T6 synthetic but is not needed. the oil looks like you have some gas contamination and I would seriously consider rebuilding the fuel petcock and possibly replacing you needle fill valves, as both are notorious for failing and filling the crankcase with fuel. Also when you say rebuild it. Do you mean fully replacing it, or removing it from the tank and taking it apart to clean the filter and such? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 I was going to recommend the rotella to him last night but I didn't want to confuse hin more on why I'm telling him to put a different wieght diesel oil in his bike...hahah 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 1 minute ago, 2talltim said: I was going to recommend the rotella to him last night but I didn't want to confuse hin more on why I'm telling him to put a different wieght diesel oil in his bike...hahah If the manual says 10w40 or 20w40, does that mean that 15w40 will work as its between them numerically? That would be useful information to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackImpact Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 48 minutes ago, whaler said: In the future the best cheap oil which can be purchased anywhere is Shell Rotila 15-40. It has great oil analyst rating and caries the JASO-MA rating. This is the conventional white bottle. You can also use the T6 synthetic but is not needed. the oil looks like you have some gas contamination and I would seriously consider rebuilding the fuel petcock and possibly replacing you needle fill valves, as both are notorious for failing and filling the crankcase with fuel. Just had a thought. If you rip the throttle hard and fast, it coughs and chokes out. Maybe doing that is causing way too much gas to go in and thats causing the flooding of gas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaler Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 49 minutes ago, JackImpact said: Also when you say rebuild it. Do you mean fully replacing it, or removing it from the tank and taking it apart to clean the filter and such? The fuel petcock rebuild is very easy and straight forward. You can get a K&L kit on Dennis Kirk for 15-25 bucks that replaces everything rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaler Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 15 minutes ago, JackImpact said: Just had a thought. If you rip the throttle hard and fast, it coughs and chokes out. Maybe doing that is causing way too much gas to go in and thats causing the flooding of gas? What you are describing sounds like a lean condition, too much gas will make it boggy. More than likely the carbs need rebuilt and the entire intake track needs checked for cracks and air leaks. The bike is old enough that every rubber piece on/in carbs will need replaced. To try troubleshooting with out first rebuilding the carbs will be a nightmare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaler Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 1 hour ago, JackImpact said: Thank you for the help! I did adjust them and believe I made them too tight so now that I have some clarification I will go back and adjust them properly. I was able to get a photo from another KZ305 owner and he showed me where to align the TDK since the service manual is a bit off as it doesnt show a photo from our exact bike. I am going to use the oil I bought to run it through once the valves are done and see how it acts, that way its lubricated properly and when everything is in order, by my hand or another, I will put motorcycle specific oil in. Proper adjustment will give you a slight drag as you pull the clearance gage out. Make sure you recheck after tightening the lock nut, it will tend to tighten up if you are not careful. Remember you are better off a little loose than too tight. Valve clearance tightens over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobravenom452 Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 In 10w40 or 20w40 as long as your using an oil that ends in w40 is good. The 40 is the weight of the oil, the first number is how cold it is good down to. Example 10w40 is good down to 10 degrees, and 20w40 is good down to 20 degrees. That is the rating for viscosity of the oil down to a certain temp. The weight doesn't change though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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