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greddy turbo kit for gsr


Guest gs-rpower95

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The Drag kit is not that bad to install. You do have to clearance the block for the turbo to fit, and if you go to a tial wastegate you have to clearance the head/valve cover a bit. I don't like using a bleed off valve like Drag gives you for the MAP (drags missing link still allowed ~4-5psi to the map, I had to use different check valves on Dak's car to keep all the boost out, I also had to fabricate a blockoff plate on the throttle body to cover where the MAP used to be)however I heave read about using a VAFC to eliminate the need for the missing link if you are running under 10psi or so, however I haven't had a chance to experiment with it, nor do I like using a FMU. You also have to fabricate brackets to move the fan over about an inch. I just used some 1/2" lexan and heated it and bent it so it kept the fan on the radiator while moving it over. You also have to fabricate the exhaust, as it eliminates the cat. You have to weld in a bung for the second 02 sensor and come up with a way to connect it to the cat-back (it doesn't come with any flanges).

 

If you get the drag kit give yourself a day or 2 to do the install. I can do a greddy kit in a few hours, the drag kit took about 6. I'd also buy injectors and a VAFC to get rid of the FMU.

 

Rob

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you think i could do the install myself?? i put headers on myself in about an hour and a half, if that gives you any idea how much i know about cars. how much would it cost to get installed?
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I don't recommend doing a turbo kit unless you really know what you're doing. There is ALOT of things that can be screwed up. Clearences, vacuum lines, etc. If you're going to do it yourself, at least have someone there that knows what he's doing--so you can learn.
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Originally posted by integranator:

I don't recommend doing a turbo kit unless you really know what you're doing. There is ALOT of things that can be screwed up. Clearences, vacuum lines, etc. If you're going to do it yourself, at least have someone there that knows what he's doing--so you can learn.

What he said.

 

ESPECIALLY if you get a drag kit. If you get a greddy kit you'll have better luck. Do NOT expect to bolt the turbo kit on and have the car act the same as before, only faster. EXPECT to break parts and have issues, because there are ALWAYS some issues and everything always costs more than planned.

 

Have another car to drive.

 

If that doesn't scare you off then go for it. Doing it yourself would save a bundle, a shop would probably charge $800+ for the install.

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If u have the money-- go turbo. Don't waste your time on other mods simply because you can do them. Go to honda-tech and browse the forced induction forum. After surfing that site for a month or two, you'll be able to tackle the turbo install in no time. If you have any questions about it-- i did a custom set up on mine and on 3 other cars so let me know.
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ok, you've breathed life back into me. fortunately, i've got plenty of time to research and learn about what i'm getting myself into, i won't have that kind of money for a few months.

one question: what is the difference between a turbo timer and a boost controller?

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A turbo timer allows you to walk away from your car and still have it run, without having the keys in the ignition. The resoning for doing this is to allow oil to flow through the turbo, giving it some time to cool down. Some Turbo timers have some type of setup in which can tell how hard you have been running your car, and it will adjust it from there.

 

A boost controller is a device that allows you to control boost pressure. (I am pretty sure that I am real close to this one, so if anyone see's it to be wrong let this guy know). The boost is normally maintained through the wastegate. To be able to change this you need to have a boost controller. The boost controller in a sense tricks the wastegate into not opening too early, allowing more pressure to build up. There are two types of boost controllers that are usually used, a manual(very popular to DSM), and an electronic. I do not recommend using a manual controller in a Honda due to some of it's lack of adjustment in temperature change. With an electrical controller you can normally set the boost to the level that you wish and not change it. With the manual for example if you set it to 8lbs during a 90degree day, and then you go out at night and it's 60degrees, you could run like 12 lbs on the same setting, and in a Honda, that would not suck, it would BLOW.

 

I am open to construction upon the theories that I have presented, I may have said something wrong. Anybody else please feel free to add comment or suggestions to this, just please do so in a productive way.

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