Jump to content

I hate my brakes! (UPDATED) help


Mallard

Recommended Posts

OK, so last summer my brakes were squealing like crazy, I took it in and they said I needed new rotors. So I got new front rotors and pads. Only a few weeks after I got them they started squealing like crazy again. I'm getting fed up with them now. I feel like I'm driving a freaking COTA bus everytime I stop.

 

I don't think I'm overly hard on brakes, I don't ride them and I put a lot of highway miles on the car. The guy at the dealer said that they squeal because they're metallic pads. Yeah...right. All the parts are only 9 months old. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[ 26. April 2003, 03:56 PM: Message edited by: Slow L36 ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest stevil

They probably didn't put the anti-squeal stuff on there. :D

 

Seriously, when you get new pads for disc brakes, they give you little packets of some lubricant or something, for the back of the pads I think. Either that, or a wear indicator is bent and rubbing on the rotor maybe?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, all the parts are factory, and all the work was done by the dealer. (They can do it much faster than I can and I can't afford to be without my daily driver for long)

 

I'll have to check the wear indicators on the front along with the lubricant on the back of the pads that you mentioned. Someone else told me about that and I'm probably going to try that.

 

I agree, W-Body brakes definately suck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The anti-squeal stuff wears off. I just put the pads on and turned my rotors last year. Never had a problem.

 

My factory brakes were complete shit on my Lumina. I took it back to the dealer about 4 times for the brakes. I ended up getting 3 new sets of pads and rotors before my warranty ran out smile.gif .

 

When I brought it in on time for squealing, they told me it was brake dust and to mash the brake pedal every two weeks. (whatever.. dumabsses).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest powers
it is common to get squealing when your pad material is harder than needed. The harder the compound the highet operating temp they need to be at to work properlly. Also you could have a some rubbing caused by a calliper hanging or a hub out of round or may other things that can be checked that is glazing the rotor causing some squeel on stoping. You just have to go step by step. also most places give brake jobs to the newbies, so expect to get someone less experienced when having the dealer doing your brakes.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest powers
Originally posted by 2 40's 2 Go:

get Bendix replacement pads way better tahn OE quiet too come with shims on them so you don't have to put the anti squaek goop on the back

BTW your still supposed to apply a layer of calliper grease between the shim and the pad. ;)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

OK so heres an update:

 

I took the car in to see if they'd replace any of the parts since they're only 9 months old. They told me I needed the front rotors turned and I needed new rear rotors, which they would not cover. Pads were fine, meaning no bent wear tabs and they're not glazed over.

 

So heres the problem...after a week they're almost as bad as they were before!!!!!!! Both times the brakes were done the car was getting tires done a few days later. I got new tires the day after they re-did the brakes.

 

Someone told me that if the lugnuts are over torqued that your rotors can warp, anyone have any experience with this? Is it possible that the tire place is fucking up my rotors everytime I go in there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

take the pads out and look at them many OE pads like AC DELCO wich is what I'm assuming in your case are sqaure edged. you need to either A champer the leading and trailing edge of the pad or B buy a set from somewhere that carries pads that come that way. the dealer is not always the greatest place to have your car serviced I've had problems with chrysler or ask anthony about what the dealer did to his firebird. Bendix makes a pad called quietstop they are garunteed not to make noise but they also make alot of dust. also with the way rotors are anymore turning them is going to srew you in the long run cause there so thin to begin with. I would buy raybestos or bendix and do the work yourself then you'll know its right
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you want to buy the parts I'll put them on your car since I've done mine a few times.

 

Listen to what people are saying on here. Stay away from stock shit. Like I said, I had my car at Jack Maxton 4 times for brakes. They replaced them every time, but it became such a hasle I just replaced the pads and WA-LA.. problem solved.

 

I just did the rears a few weeks ago because the car was shimmying (is that a word) on the freeway.

 

Bendix pads (in the front) are about $40 or so. It's well worth it. It will stop the squealing AND make your stopping better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Buck531:

If you want to buy the parts I'll put them on your car since I've done mine a few times.

 

Listen to what people are saying on here. Stay away from stock shit. Like I said, I had my car at Jack Maxton 4 times for brakes. They replaced them every time, but it became such a hasle I just replaced the pads and WA-LA.. problem solved.

 

I just did the rears a few weeks ago because the car was shimmying (is that a word) on the freeway.

 

Bendix pads (in the front) are about $40 or so. It's well worth it. It will stop the squealing AND make your stopping better.

Cool, that sounds like a good deal to me. I'll let you know in a week or so. The squeaking is intermittent so I'm not in as big a rush as I was at first. I'll send ya a PM when the time comes, and I'll buy the beer smile.gif
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Disc brakes are very easy to do, so don't be giving a dealer another dime for that work.

 

It is possible to warp a rotor if the wheels are torqued severly unevenly or way too much....ON SOME CARS. Others you can tighten each lug nut to 120 ft/lb each and not warp a dang thing.

 

With pads it's a balance between 4 things:

- Wear

- Noise

- How well they grab

- Dust

 

There is no perfect brake pad out there; a pad is always gonna give up one (or more) traits to improve another. A racing type brake may grab really well, but may suffer in the noise and dust dept.

 

I've always used that spray-on anti-squeal stuff when doing pads. Quick and easy. I have Performance Friction pads on my Formula, and they are quiet and don't produce much dust. I haven't checked how badly they are wearing. But their wet-weather ability sucks balls, badly. Rotors get wet, and they have about 1/2 the braking force they usually do when dry. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...