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Resistor Box


98GSR

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Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

Anyone have one locally???????????

Where the plugs fouled?

 

Anyone know the side effects of running a car with low impedence injectors without a resistor box (besides the fact that it will run like shit)? I'm just wondering if there is any possible damage to the computer...

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http://www.muller.net/sonny/resistorbox/

 

There ya go smile.gif

 

Either that or I can wire in some 10w 10ohm ballast resistors to the + side of the injectors, this way would work, but the resistors can heat up and then the resistance can change which might lead to some hot start issues.

 

Lemme know what you want to do, wiring in the ballast resistors would cost ~$5 from radio shack and take 20 minutes. I'm free on Sunday.

 

 

I just hope that the injector drivers didn't get damaged (which I think they might have).

 

Rob

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Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

If they got damaged then what??????????

 

Edit: So I might have to get another computer...great more $$$$$$$

 

Sunday is good for me if you can do that

We can do Sunday, I'll pick up the resistors today.

 

Yes you might need a new computer if the old one is damaged, we'll figure that out Sunday.

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Originally posted by rl:

Where the plugs fouled?

 

Anyone know the side effects of running a car with low impedence injectors without a resistor box (besides the fact that it will run like shit)? I'm just wondering if there is any possible damage to the computer...

I would figure it would burn out the injectors before the computer.
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Originally posted by fush:

I would figure it would burn out the injectors before the computer.

Why? The way I look at it, the injectors are a load on the computer. Just like if you run speakers at 1ohm on a amp rated at 8ohms, it burns the amp, not the speakers.
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If the injector is designed to run by applying a high current to open it and then a very low current to hold it open, then without the resistor in place its basically just receiving the high current the whole time its open. Thats the point of the inline resistance to drop the amount of current the injector sees to basically the same value as it would recieve during the hold open period of its operation on an ecu made to drive low impedance injectors. Without this in place the injector can burn out as well as the ecu. I just know that when I installed a set of low impedance injectors with no resistors it burned the injectors and the ecu was fine. That was the basis of my statement.
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Guest onikus
Originally posted by fush:

If the injector is designed to run by applying a high current to open it and then a very low current to hold it open, then without the resistor in place its basically just receiving the high current the whole time its open. Thats the point of the inline resistance to drop the amount of current the injector sees to basically the same value as it would recieve during the hold open period of its operation on an ecu made to drive low impedance injectors. Without this in place the injector can burn out as well as the ecu. I just know that when I installed a set of low impedance injectors with no resistors it burned the injectors and the ecu was fine. That was the basis of my statement.

OK, I see what you are saying. Ohh well, if it hurt them maybe he can get RC to fix them. I'm going to do resistors for him tomorrow and see what happens.

 

Rob

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Originally posted by fush:

Cool. Are you guys running the vafc hack or something else to trim the big injectors?

Just running a VAFC smile.gif We need to get the car on the dyno, right now we get black smoke under boost, which is good, but we need a wideband.

 

It still idles pretty rich with FP at 40.

 

We use a check valve for the MAP, when I get the car on the dyno I'm going to do the hack (get rid of the check valve and set the VAFC for -%'s). I don't like using a check valve.

 

[ 30. June 2003, 04:45 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

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Rob you were right on, about the resistors heating up and them not doing their job. I let it cool off then we went to the park and ran fine. On the way home (a 30min drive) it started acting up at rt3.
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Originally posted by 98GSR-T:

Rob you were right on, about the resistors heating up and them not doing their job. I let it cool off then we went to the park and ran fine. On the way home (a 30min drive) it started acting up at rt3.

I'll move them to the fender and put a heat sink on them. That should do it smile.gif Might as well do the AFC hack while we are messing with it.
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Originally posted by integranator:

The hack isn't exactly designed for 550's. It will run fine, but if you end up taking out too much fuel-- your map sensor will throw a code.

 

If you need any help using the hack-- I'm running it in my car right now.

I'm not going to do that hack, I'm trying to figure out a better way to use 2 MAP's (one vented one closed) instead of a MAP and a TPS other than what I have seen on the boards. I might mess with doing the other hack if I cant get this to work (at which point I'll want your help :D ).

 

Right now I'm just trying to keep the stupid resistors from heating up and causing everything to go wacko. I think I'm just going to wire 2 of the 10w 10ohm resistors in series per injector and mount them on the driver side shock tower with heat sinks. That way they wont have as much engine heat, and will be able to handle 20 watts.

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Originally posted by integranator:

The resistors heat up?? i have a factory resistor box painted flat black (sneaky sneaky).... I would wonder if the flat black holds heat in...uh oh.

When they get hot the resistance changes, and it throws everything off. They are just open ballast resistors.

 

I doubt the flat black paint does anything negative to your resistor box.

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Originally posted by rl:

Originally posted by integranator:

[qb]

Right now I'm just trying to keep the stupid resistors from heating up and causing everything to go wacko. I think I'm just going to wire 2 of the 10w 10ohm resistors in series per injector and mount them on the driver side shock tower with heat sinks. That way they wont have as much engine heat, and will be able to handle 20 watts.

Are you looking for a 10ohm or 20ohm resistance all together. Because if you wire 2 10 ohm resistors in series it will look like 20 ohms, if you didn't allready know that.
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Guest nevarmore

You may want to look around at someplace other than radio shack. The shack has gone down the shitter for electronic parts. mouser.com is very good as is partsexpress.com, which has more auto related stuff and is based near dayton. You should be able to find a better grade of resistor or one designed for an application where its going to be under load and get hot for a long time but it wont affect its electrical properties. Either place should be able to help you over the phone or via email if you explain what you're doing.

 

Also in regards to the comment of 'burning out' the computer. Unless that '98 is using some ancient tech, the computer doesn't directly throw a 'switch' for the resistors. It does something more akin to triggering a relay, the computer sends a low voltage/amperage signal to a relay that then handles the high voltage/amperage switching. Anything that new should also have some built in protection for the computer in case of a more standard electrical short or overload. Using your amp analogy, the amp would burn out, but not the head unit, ya dig?

 

Nerd mode off. Hope this helped somehow, and if I'm speculating out of my ass someone correct me.

 

Update:

Mouser click on Power resistors, they seem to be a bigger more badassed resistor than the little shit from rodeo shack

 

parts express The wirewound and flameproof shoud do you as well.

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Originally posted by My name... is Neo:

Are you looking for a 10ohm or 20ohm resistance all together. Because if you wire 2 10 ohm resistors in series it will look like 20 ohms, if you didn't allready know that.

I think I got my terminology wrong (obviously), I meant parallel, So it increases the voltage they can handle, but does not increase the resistance.

 

(Like ----=--- Where the resistors are the '=')

 

Thanks for the links nevermore, I'll check them out.

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Originally posted by rl:

I think I got my terminology wrong (obviously), I meant parallel, So it increases the voltage they can handle, but does not increase the resistance.

 

(Like ----=--- Where the resistors are the '=')

 

Thanks for the links nevermore, I'll check them out.

2 10ohm resistors in parallel will look like a 5 ohm load.

 

If you put 2 resistors in series they both have the same current going through them, but only a portion of the voltage drops across each resistor. In the case of 2 resistors with the same value half of the voltage will drop across each resistor, but all of the current will still go through both. Making half the power disapate across each resistor.

 

If you put 2 resistors in parallel they will have the same voltage drop across each one. But only a portion of the current will flow through each resistor. In the case of 2 resistors with the same value, half of the current will flow through each of the resistors, but like was stated before, all of the voltage will drop across each resistor. Making half the power disapate across each resistor.

 

Think of it like a river (or any other sort of moving liquid). Voltage is the total volume and current is the flow rate.

 

We had a problem with our senior desing project where we could not get an inductor of the value we needed that had a high enough current rating. We just put 2 in parallel, then you put 2 sets of parallel in series. Or you could put 2 in series, then you put 2 sets of seriesed elements in parallel with each other. Mind you, inductors add up like resistors, capacitors do just the oppisite (they add up in paralle like resistors do in series, and vice versa). But you still get the same thing happening when you connect them like this. You end up having the original value of the elements as your total value for the gangel of elements. I don't see you needing to do this though, you should be able to find something on mouser or the like to suite your application.

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Originally posted by My name... is Neo:

2 10ohm resistors in parallel will look like a 5 ohm load.

 

If you put 2 resistors in series they both have the same current going through them, but only a portion of the voltage drops across each resistor. In the case of 2 resistors with the same value half of the voltage will drop across each resistor, but all of the current will still go through both. Making half the power disapate across each resistor.

 

If you put 2 resistors in parallel they will have the same voltage drop across each one. But only a portion of the current will flow through each resistor. In the case of 2 resistors with the same value, half of the current will flow through each of the resistors, but like was stated before, all of the voltage will drop across each resistor. Making half the power disapate across each resistor.

 

Think of it like a river (or any other sort of moving liquid). Voltage is the total volume and current is the flow rate.

 

We had a problem with our senior desing project where we could not get an inductor of the value we needed that had a high enough current rating. We just put 2 in parallel, then you put 2 sets of parallel in series. Or you could put 2 in series, then you put 2 sets of seriesed elements in parallel with each other. Mind you, inductors add up like resistors, capacitors do just the oppisite (they add up in paralle like resistors do in series, and vice versa). But you still get the same thing happening when you connect them like this. You end up having the original value of the elements as your total value for the gangel of elements. I don't see you needing to do this though, you should be able to find something on mouser or the like to suite your application.

Ahhh, I understand now. I suck at teh electronics. I think I'll just get some of the wire wrapped 10ohm 25w resistors and see what happens smile.gif
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