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couple of ?'s about a 100 shot on a ls1


Ramsey

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I have a 98 trans am A4, and I am looking to put on a 100 shot. I have the bottle, 16' line, 1 24" line (soon to have 2), wet nozzle, nitrous solenoid (soon to have the fuel also), also soon to have the throttle switch and I am pretty sure that is all that I will need. But, i have heard of a few people on this board that blew their motor because the 8th cylinder was being starved of fuel and they were thinking of running some type of duel rail & duel return system. Is that true? Should I look into running something like that? If so, does anybody have info on what i will need? The last thing i want to do is blow my motor if there is a way that I could prevent it.
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pull the valve out of the test port, hook your fuel line up..

 

change your Fuel filter, and i highly recommend a stronger fuel pump!!

 

100 shot should be ok, unless its a return less fuel system, I cant remember :confused:

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I have a 98 trans am A4, and I am looking to put on a 100 shot. I have the bottle, 16' line, 1 24" line (soon to have 2), wet nozzle, nitrous solenoid (soon to have the fuel also), also soon to have the throttle switch and I am pretty sure that is all that I will need. But, i have heard of a few people on this board that blew their motor because the 8th cylinder was being starved of fuel and they were thinking of running some type of duel rail & duel return system. Is that true? Should I look into running something like that? If so, does anybody have info on what i will need? The last thing i want to do is blow my motor if there is a way that I could prevent it.

 

Hobbs Fuel Pressure switch on the fuel line, RPM window switch on the main circuit loop.

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The engine will hold it just fine. Your transmission won't, as you'll EASILY make past the 450rwtq that will break it into pieces.

 

If this is your daily driver, or if you cannot afford to have it rebuilt first or afterwards, don't do it.

 

If you wanna spray it, though, your engine will survive. Run a wet kit, unless you have the money for bigger injectors, a tune, and a bigger fuel pump. Then go dry. Also 100% make sure you run a fuel pressure safety switch, RPM activiated switch (not window, you have an auto), WOT switch, and blow-down tube with pressure seal (track legal and prevents too much pressure from blowing your bottle up and/or venting the nitrous into the car).

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The engine will hold it just fine. Your transmission won't, as you'll EASILY make past the 450rwtq that will break it into pieces.

 

If this is your daily driver, or if you cannot afford to have it rebuilt first or afterwards, don't do it.

 

If you wanna spray it, though, your engine will survive. Run a wet kit, unless you have the money for bigger injectors, a tune, and a bigger fuel pump. Then go dry. Also 100% make sure you run a fuel pressure safety switch, RPM activiated switch not required(not window, you have an auto), WOT switch, and blow-down tube with pressure seal (track legal and prevents too much pressure from blowing your bottle up and/or venting the nitrous into the car).

 

Manual or auto, both can trip fuel cut. If the tires start spinning (instant torque in seconds - which nitrous is great at) and the desired MPH isn't obtained....you'll bounce off the rev limiter and more than likely hit fuel cut.

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LS1s don't do fuel cut for the rev-limiter, they drop the spark to the firing cylinders :)

 

 

 

I thought the same awhile ago, but it's not true. When you hit the rev limiter you can see your Injector pulse go down and a lean spike on a WB 02, hence less fuel. I saw this recently on my car.

 

As for timing, I'll have to go back and check my logs to see if it gets reduced.

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http://midnightoilfabrication.com/lol/fueling.JPG

 

You'll notice there are no governing parameters of the spark in regards to a cutoff. It's only fuel. This is from a 98 A4 Caramo/Firebird.

 

Another thing that's interesting is that the A4 can get sloppy when it's abused. I rode around with a buddy from GMR Speed and after a few hard launches and WOT pulls, the car was shifting near 6,300-400, when commanded MPHs and RPMs were obtained by 5,800. You've probably seen more stuff like that than I.

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The '98s do spark-cut according to the gurus at LS1Tech. I'd look into it more.

 

This is interesting because I've opened up the file with EFILive, LS1Edit, HPT and none of them had any editable parameter regarding a maximum spark RPM. The dwell times on the coils are all staticly defined so it's not cutting it by means of coils....

 

I'd still reccomend a window switch, but that's just me.

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