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My boat keeps eating starter solenoids....HELP!!!


Nitrousbird

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The boat: 89 Sea Ray 160, Alpha 1 outdrive, 3.0L Mercrusier I4.

 

What's new:

- 2004 3.0L crate motor, brand new crate motor (was sitting in a wharehouse for a while it seems)

- 12 3/4" flywheel, required to put a new motor in an older boat

- Rebuilt carb, cleaned fuel pump/fuel lines/fuel return

- Brand new battery, new relay that feeds the starter solenoid, brand new starter w/ new solenoid.

 

The problem. Used the old starter for a while, worked great, had to start the boat (read: all the new motor stuff) a number of times without issue. Then it wouldn't start; jumping the solenoid would start it.

 

Toss on a new solenoid, same issue. Then we noticed the relay died, replaced that. Then it would click again, but still not start. Then jumping it would cause the starter motor to spin, but not engage the flywheel.

 

I return the solenoid, and get a brand new starter online, a newer style at that (includes a new solenoid). Toss it in, works GREAT. Start it about 8 times out of the water, works great. Take the boat out today, start it on the water about 5 times. Try number 6, same deal....click click click (click being I hear the relay, but not the solenoid trying). Jump the solenoid on the water, and right away it won't engage the flywheel. If you beat on the solenoid, it would at first start and engage (without jumping the terminals) for a second, the stop. Jumping the terminals would never allow it to engage the flywheel.

 

Now what? The starter has a warranty, and I should be able to get another one. But I DO NOT want this to happen again. What are we missing here?? Alternator is working fine (was rebuilt a few years ago, probably has 30 hours on it, and the voltage gauge is fine when it is running), and when the starter works, it works perfectly. I never seem to be low on juice, so it's not that issue. I have all the ground connections hooked up, and they are clean. But WTF is frying these solenoids?

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Try looking into your shift linkage and the microswitches in the top of the engine. I have an 89 Larson with the same engine. If the engine does not think that the gear box is in neutral you will get that type of sound. I have the manual for the engine. If you need me to, I can copy the sections out of it and fax it or mail it to you.

 

Did you take the starter to autozone and have them put it on the tester so you can see if it operates?

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Try looking into your shift linkage and the microswitches in the top of the engine. I have an 89 Larson with the same engine. If the engine does not think that the gear box is in neutral you will get that type of sound. I have the manual for the engine. If you need me to, I can copy the sections out of it and fax it or mail it to you.

 

Did you take the starter to autozone and have them put it on the tester so you can see if it operates?

It's not the linkage. If the boat is in gear, the relay won't even click...that's what it cuts power to. I have a repair manual for the engine/drive, but honestly those are better for general info and torque specs than for troubleshooting any significant issue.

 

This last solenoid went out on the water today, so I haven't had a chance to pull the starter out and yell at it yet.

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When you pulled the others out did you seen any signs of damage to it. Have you checked the voltage to the starter under load? Also I think that starter must have the right shims for them correct gear mesh (I am assuming this due to it being based on chevy).. If it does require shims, and your mesh is not correct you could damage the starter.
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How old are the battery cables? Still original? If so, replace with the Ancor marine 2 gauge, with the good ends, don't waste your time with the cheap lead bolt together ends.

 

Cables corrode a lot faster on a boat than a car.

 

You are using a marine starter right?

 

Where did you buy it from?

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That starter does have shims. I checked the book today. If you do not have the right mesh you could damage the solenoid shift lever, therfore binding the mechanism.

 

just a thought

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kinda sounds like there is 2 problems, sounds like the starter needs shimed for a binding issue and second not getting the required voltage and/or amps to engauge the solenoid.

seeing how its an 89' i would replace the cables if you have not already done so and wire in a ford starter relay. just run the battery cables to the one side of the relay insted of the starter and on the starter hook the solenoid lead to the battery + so when the relay is engauged it sends power to both the starter motor and the solenoid. it might be easier to just get the battery cable kit from jegs and make your own cables with the soder ends.

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kinda sounds like there is 2 problems, sounds like the starter needs shimed for a binding issue and second not getting the required voltage and/or amps to engauge the solenoid.

seeing how its an 89' i would replace the cables if you have not already done so and wire in a ford starter relay. just run the battery cables to the one side of the relay insted of the starter and on the starter hook the solenoid lead to the battery + so when the relay is engauged it sends power to both the starter motor and the solenoid. it might be easier to just get the battery cable kit from jegs and make your own cables with the soder ends.

 

couldnt have said it better myself

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Guest 614Streets
Id suspect low amperage from the battery to ground or to starter positive , high resistance in your leads. Voltage drop test? AND YES LIKE ASSURED RISK ASKED, YOU ARE USING A MARINE STARTER RIGHT? Grounds ok?
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There is a difference between marine and automotive wire.

 

Also, I am almost positive that one place we order parts from has a stater for the 3.0 that has the relay and solenoid built in. I want to say it was around $175, which is a pretty good price for a marine starter.

 

Also, did you ever get a chance to measure the voltage going into the coil (purple wire) with the engine running?

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