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Would it be hard to turbo a s10?


Browning

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2.5 liter? I know some of you will think wow, thats retarded. It really wouldnt be for speed(obviously), but more of a "hey look, that s10 has a turbo" type thing. I have found a "project" I am interested in, and am throwing this idea around. I should also mention I really dont know jack shit about turbos. Nothing fancy, just a small turbo setup that I could do on a budget. What's needed?
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You will NOT need a header.

You need an up-pipe, it goes from the header, to where you want the turbo.This is mainly a custom project. No one really makes a "kit" anymore.

 

You will need a small turbo perferably w/ internal wastegate.

Custom piping

Blow-off-valve

Intercooler (it will make the turbo last longer)

FMU (fuel management unit)

MSD ignition

 

To get your piping bent I would use a coat hanger to get your bends then take it to a muffler shop.

There is no direct write up for this but this is probally the easiest way to do it w/ no welder.

The safest PSI to run is 6-8. You can run higher, but I wouldnt w/ out a build up.

 

Running a turbo will usually get you more power than a S/C.

-From S10planet.com

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Jack,

 

 

If the truck uses a GM DIS ignition (usually 96+), the ignition upgrade isn't worth it as factory GM coils can get the job done. If it's a distributer based ignition system, just a coil with a good cap and rotor should suffice.

 

1985+ 300ZX Turbo, 85+ Thunderbird,Mustang SVO+, DSM cars would all be good sources. If you are looking aftermarket, Super 60 T3 would fit you fine.

 

I wouldn't go the route of FMU, but look at things like Megasquirt. Adding fuel by raising pressure works, but to make it worth your while you'll want something for engine management.

 

The enemy you face is charge temperature. The air that will be going into the truck gets incredibly hot after being compressed, send that into an already hot combustion chamber designed for only normal atmosphereic pressures...engine go boom. So to expand on invaders statement, the intercooler will make the engine last longer. The lof law of power with forced induction is colder, denser air makes more of it - safely. Don't forget you'll need to use atleast 93 octane to keep the truck running without knock or detonation.

 

You may also want to go down a heat range and tuck in the gap a bit on your spark plugs. Copper plugs should be used and depending on your situation, .005-.010 of gap reduction is normal.

 

What is your budget looking like?

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4.3 swap.(but leave it efi or carb it)..using 350 parts. later add a novi.

 

 

 

or even turbo the 4.3, TT low rider.

 

dont get me wrong, the 2.5 iron duke was a ok motor in those years, but not the most reliable after 100k or more.

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4.3 swap.(but leave it efi or carb it)..using 350 parts. later add a novi.

 

 

 

or even turbo the 4.3, TT low rider.

 

dont get me wrong, the 2.5 iron duke was a ok motor in those years, but not the most reliable after 100k or more.

 

+1 on the 4.3 swap. You can find them cheap too. But if you really want to stick with the iron duke, that isn't a bad idea if reliability is your top priority. The 2.5 iron duke was a VERY reliable motor IMO. I too have seen dozens in the 200+k mile range and heard nothing but good things about their durability. They are bulletproof!

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Guest 614Streets
the 2.5 iron duke is a proven workhorse used both in the automotive and the marine industry. 4" Bore almost enough said I know at guy who ran one many years ago at NTR and had high compression pistons , a 350 sb header rewelded and a solid cam run 13's na. With a Turbo and a stock engine you should be in the same area , but one big thing..... The 2.5 you would be running , is it tbi? The 2.5 tbi wont cut it, go roots blown and a carb or mpfi if they made a mpfi 2.5 platform you can use. BTW i have a high effeciency roots blower for sale that would be perfect for that 2.5.
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