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Looking at a Z28...


31rx7

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Guest Mushijobah
Don't get and LS1, too expensive...Buy my 96 hehehe! No seriously, an ad is in the corral. Only had 66k miles, rebuilt Rhino engine at 61k. Reason for selling: Poor college student. PM me.
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Guest Mushijobah
Maybe you should read the question he asked and not simply tell him to buy your car.

 

PS - You have quite the corral of cars there!

 

 

I did, and then solicited my car. I told him a good two good things about a z28. Is that illeagle? People tend to post random shit on threads all the time ya dyke.

 

Anyways, the LT1's are a good engine minus the goofy opti-spark distrib. system.

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I'm sellin mine for 8K.. I drove a LT1 auto and I wasn't too pleased with it.. The LT1 m6 isn't bad, it was a formula that I test drive.. but I like the ls1 better..
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CAMARO SOURCE

COFBA LS1TECH

LT1TECH

 

 

93 LT1 non vented opti 4l60/700r4 auto trans t-56 manual. no MAF just a speed density car http://www.speeddensity.org

 

94 seems to be the most common year. non vented opti 4l60E auto or t-56 manual. runs on a MAF primarily.

 

95 "best year" OBD1 and a vented opti same trans and tuning tools

 

96 obd2 and vented opti first year for SS re-introduction.

 

97 30th anniversary +96 specs.

 

98 first year for LS1 bigger stock cam and larger fuel injectors. tuning can be tougher but nothing to put it out of competition. PLENTY of FAST 98s out there!

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You can always go to http://www.ls1.com or http://www.ls1tech.com or try http://www.cofba.org . Just do a search on one of those sites. I have nothing against the lt-1 motors, I have had a couple of mid 90's Vettes. The only knock I have ever heard of is the opti spark.

I did buy a 98 t/a because of the ls1 . Great motor and very easy to get hp, just a bit expensive to mod.

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I did, and then solicited my car. I told him a good two good things about a z28. Is that illeagle? People tend to post random shit on threads all the time ya dyke.

 

Anyways, the LT1's are a good engine minus the goofy opti-spark distrib. system.

 

Oh, I am sorry. I didn't see the two things you posted that were good about a z28.

 

Wait.....where?

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PS - You have quite the corral of cars there!

 

Yes, too many. The RX7 will be sold or parted within the next month, and the IS300 and Yukon will be sold / traded for a Suburban, so I will be replacing 3 with 1.

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I believe that you can find plenty of LSx cars on tech for around 8-9k with some mods done. I may be wrong tho. I would suggest an LS1 car over an LT1 car ANY and EVERYDAY. Mod friendly,great gas mileage (market segment) easy on the eyes, great power stock and gains nice with mods. Outside of the rear end which will be the problem with the LT1 cars. Except for initial price there is no great reason to go with an LT1. To each their own tho.
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I believe that you can find plenty of LSx cars on tech for around 8-9k with some mods done.

If you want an A4 then yes. There is someone on here with a 00 Z28 that was going to sell me his for around $9500 I believe. However the M6 with a budget was hard for me to find. I would have to agree with everyone else about the LS1. If your budget allows it would be a better choice IMO.

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LT1's have plenty of potential, and have ran 8 flat's on stock-style suspension and factory blocks/aftermarket LT1-style heads. So the potential is there for them for sure, and the aftermarket is good too.

 

93's: Unless you want to do something out of the norm, stay away from them. Tuning is different, tranny's are different (both 6-speed and auto), and just going to be more of a pain.

 

94's: From 94-97, the differences are small. 94, non-vented Opti.

 

95's: Vented Opti w/ OBD-I. Note, if tuning, you'll need an OBD-I cable w/ an OBD-II end on it, but they aren't hard to find.

 

96-97: OBD-II.

 

Software for the OBD-II is more expensive. It DOES have an advantage if you are going to run the 4L60E with a stall over 3000, as some OBD-I PCM's have issues with that.

 

But other than 93, any year will work. You can easily convert from OBD-II to OBD-I or vice-versa. It is cake to swap to a vented Opti if you are doing a cam swap.

 

Before you fall for all the online BS, the Opti isn't that bad, and stock normally lasts 70-90k miles. MSD now offers a fully aftermarket Opti (or just cap and rotor). There are a couple coil-pack options that replace the cap/rotor as well. Or you can go aftermarket ECU and use whatever crank trigger/sensor your heart desires.

 

Rear end's, don't bother touching the 10-bolt (that goes for LS1 cars too). Investing money into making it stronger is throwing it away, and gear swaps tend to make it weaker. Just save up for a 12-bolt, 8.8", 9", or Dana swap (I have a 12-bolt, and would suggest that or a 9").

 

Tranny wise, the LT1 T-56's seem to hold up a bit better than the LS1 units. When it comes to clutches, if you plan on making any power, take this advice: BUY A McLeod Street Twin. It is expensive, but you don't want to deal with the clutch battles I've dealt with. It's better to just buy a clutch one time and be done with the issue.

 

Other issues to look for are leaking intake manifold gaskets (cheap/easy fix). Power window motors are crap on these cars (and LS1 cars too).

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Did I say the LS1 was always going to be faster..hmm nope I sure didn't.

 

Just the overall package of an LS1 is an overall better setup. :cool:

LS1's are easier to work on, but other than that... LT1's have the same power potential....

 

with that being said, I love my LT1 motor... but will I get another one? who knows... the only thing I do know is my next sports car will be a vette.... why? because the Vette makes them wet :p

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LS1's are easier to work on, but other than that... LT1's have the same power potential....

 

with that being said, I love my LT1 motor... but will I get another one? who knows... the only thing I do know is my next sports car will be a vette.... why? because the Vette makes them wet :p

And you're selling me the 9inch rear end :D

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