excell Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Know of a good link that shows how to replace the springs and isolators on an early fox, say vintage 1986? Or, care to give a quick rundown of the process? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 sell it and get a 88-93 model way better, but still a monster car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 sell it and get a 88-93 model way better, but still a monster car Should I ban you now, or later? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Edit: I originally read this as only the rear because I'm illiterate. Rear: Basically if you jack up the back end (obviously) and support the rear subframe with jack stands so that the rear axle can droop, you're in business. From there it's pretty straight forward. If you have stock springs in there, you'll likely have to unfasten the shocks (topside, under the shock tower covers) so that you can droop it far enough to pull the springs (and maybe pull the DS, but I doubt it). Usually you can droop it enough this way that you can just use a prybar or something to pop them out. They should be uncompressed enough that you won;t have to fear catching one in the eye. Worst case, if you can't just pop them out you can use a spring compressor or remove the control arm bolts to allow more droop, but that's likely not necessary. Re-assmbly is the reverse of dissasembly. Only thing to look out for is to make sure you orient the "pigtail" on the rear springs the right way (note how the stockers are when you pull them). I think they should point forward, but I don't recall for sure. Front: Similar to the rear in that you just need to get it in the air and support by the front subframe. Then unfasten the strut so that you can droop the control arm enough to pry the spring out. This is where you should be careful, but I have done it many times with no spring compressor. Normally I have a jack under the control arm as a safety. Normally you still end up moving the jack out of the way to get enough droop to pop the spring loose. If it seems like it's under alot of tension, it's probably best to use spring compressors (although I have never needed to). Again make sure the pigtail is oriented correctly, although it's fairly obvious because of how it fits into the spring pocket in the control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Edit: I originally read this as only the rear because I'm illiterate. Rear: Basically if you jack up the back end (obviously) and support the rear subframe with jack stands so that the rear axle can droop, you're in business. From there it's pretty straight forward. If you have stock springs in there, you'll likely have to unfasten the shocks (topside, under the shock tower covers) so that you can droop it far enough to pull the springs (and maybe pull the DS, but I doubt it). Usually you can droop it enough this way that you can just use a prybar or something to pop them out. They should be uncompressed enough that you won;t have to fear catching one in the eye. Worst case, if you can't just pop them out you can use a spring compressor or remove the control arm bolts to allow more droop, but that's likely not necessary. Re-assmbly is the reverse of dissasembly. Only thing to look out for is to make sure you orient the "pigtail" on the rear springs the right way (note how the stockers are when you pull them). I think they should point forward, but I don't recall for sure. Front: Similar to the rear in that you just need to get it in the air and support by the front subframe. Then unfasten the strut so that you can droop the control arm enough to pry the spring out. This is where you should be careful, but I have done it many times with no spring compressor. Normally I have a jack under the control arm as a safety. Normally you still end up moving the jack out of the way to get enough droop to pop the spring loose. If it seems like it's under alot of tension, it's probably best to use spring compressors (although I have never needed to). Again make sure the pigtail is oriented correctly, although it's fairly obvious because of how it fits into the spring pocket in the control arm. Thank you! Pretty much how I thought it would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramsey Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Thank you! Pretty much how I thought it would be. what springs ares you going with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 what springs ares you going with? I haven't decided 100% yet, but I'm leaning toward the Motorsport B springs. It's between that and the H&R Sport. The SVO has certain spring requirements because of the valving of the Koni's, I can't go too low without having to change them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Not that you we're asking, but my take on the springs is as follows: I'm kind of a Ford Racing "fan-boy", but if they fit your application well, which they seem to do in this case, they're always an excellent value. For $100 less your getting nearly the same rates as the H&R with a more modest lowering, which is obviously important because of the shocks. The 1.5 or thereabouts lowering of the H&Rs isn't alot, but its probably getting near the danger zone, especially in the rear. That may cost you a bit more than you'd want in overall travel too (although the lower height definately looks better). Are you hitting autocrosses/track-days with this or just street? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 Not that you we're asking, but my take on the springs is as follows: I'm kind of a Ford Racing "fan-boy", but if they fit your application well, which they seem to do in this case, they're always an excellent value. For $100 less your getting nearly the same rates as the H&R with a more modest lowering, which is obviously important because of the shocks. The 1.5 or thereabouts lowering of the H&Rs isn't alot, but its probably getting near the danger zone, especially in the rear. That may cost you a bit more than you'd want in overall travel too (although the lower height definately looks better). Are you hitting autocrosses/track-days with this or just street? I agree with you 100%. That is exactly what I've been thinking as I'm researching. Street only. I don't drive the car much, which I aim to change some this year. That’s why I’m making a few improvements to make the car more enjoyable for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 If you were going to see some autocross, I would have maybe leaned toward the C-springs, but then you're probably getting too far from the rate you shocks are meant to dampen, so you're shopping for shocks (or maybe having yours revalved, either way =$$)... so especially for street use - I'd say you're right on with the B's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimmel1647545512 Posted April 10, 2008 Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 chris if you want an extra set of hands ill be more than willin to help you out, I am yet to see the svo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2008 If you were going to see some autocross, I would have maybe leaned toward the C-springs, but then you're probably getting too far from the rate you shocks are meant to dampen, so you're shopping for shocks (or maybe having yours revalved, either way =$$)... so especially for street use - I'd say you're right on with the B's. Spot-on again. I'm glad to have someone agree with me for my exact reasoning. Makes me more comfortable with the choice. chris if you want an extra set of hands ill be more than willin to help you out, I am yet to see the svo. Oh don't worry, I already knew I could count on you. I might have Derek and Dave do the springs, depends on when I get them and how froggy I feel. With a wedding coming up fast I may just pay to have most of this done so I can come home from the honeymoon and just enjoy the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 One more question - spring isolators. Looking at polyurethane spring isolator sets for front and rear. Good idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stimmel1647545512 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 One more question - spring isolators. Looking at polyurethane spring isolator sets for front and rear. Good idea? just put them on my car havent had a problem and they were a fancy red color haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted April 12, 2008 Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 I run isolators in the rear only with eibach springs the car seemed like it was too high in the front with the isolators in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolen 5.0 Posted April 12, 2008 Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 running no isolators will lower the car 1/4, yet it may squeel a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted April 12, 2008 Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 mine pops when I lift it on a hoist but no noise (that I can hear) while driving.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 I didn't know the c springs were close to the h&r sports???? where are these rates published? I couldn't find them last time I looked. If you go with H&r's contact artsperformanceparts he has the best prices on max motorsports and related stuff... or stangsuspension both offer corral discounts... the poly isolators are a lot cheaper than the factory rubber ones... both new. I dont think it makes a difference- Are you running koni yellows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 I didn't know the c springs were close to the h&r sports???? where are these rates published? I couldn't find them last time I looked. A while back I found a couple of places online (Not H&R themselves) listing the Sports at 490-575 Front/205-285 Rear. I would say they are more similar to Ford Racing B-Springs. THe H&R Super Sports would be more in line with the Cs. Searching again I found this: http://www.need-4-speed.com/h&r.htm I am pretty sure I have seen those same numbers published elsewhere, although most places I find now seem to only advertise the rates of the Super Sports and Race springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 So I'll pick up the isolators, then. Now I just have to decide when I want to buy the parts and when(if) I want to tackle the job. Doesn't look very hard, time is my enemy. I would kinda like to do it myself so I know how everything comes together. I hate that about not doing things myself, I don't get the chance to see how it all works and connects. Is there anything else I should think about replacing while I'm in there? The car is 22 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTHER91 Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 chris if you need help or something let me know ihave a lift you can use at work only bad thing is (its on the east side) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 thanks for the spring rates! I figured the c-s were a little extreme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 chris if you need help or something let me know ihave a lift you can use at work only bad thing is (its on the east side) Awesome Eric, thanks man! For this job I can easily tackle it in the garage - but I may take you up on that lift for something else before too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 I haven't decided 100% yet, but I'm leaning toward the Motorsport B springs. It's between that and the H&R Sport. The SVO has certain spring requirements because of the valving of the Koni's, I can't go too low without having to change them. Get H&R race springs. They ride MUCH BETTER than the sport springs. Most people hate the sports and love the race springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excell Posted April 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2008 Get H&R race springs. They ride MUCH BETTER than the sport springs. Most people hate the sports and love the race springs. Interesting, I will keep that in mind. I still haven't decided which springs I want to go with. The more I think about it, the more I wonder if the B springs are going to give me the look I want. I'm starting to seriously reconsider them. I just don't want to open a can of worms with needing offset rack bushings, bump steer problems, and certainly don't want to damage or have to replace my shocks... Still researching, I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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