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car wont start


Guest tbutera2112

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Guest tbutera2112
i let my car sit all weekend and now it wont start....i didnt leave anything turned on, and the key was in the cupholder the whole time....i have a month old optima yellow top, so i dont see it being the battery, but i turned on the headlights and they were very dim...is it a battery issue? when i turn the key it clicks like a machine gun
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Guest tbutera2112
i dont have any jumper cables here either...ide hate to roll my car out into the street to bump start it if thats not the issue....because no way in hell ide get it back up my driveway....it sounds like a battery issue to me also, but i just dont see how...the battery is brand new and nothing was left on...
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Guest tbutera2112
never bump started a car before....not really liking the whole pop the clutch in reverse idea ....if i slowly roll my car into the street with my hazards and lights on, about how fast do i have to get it rolling before i can pop the clutch? and should i do it in first or second?
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Guest tbutera2112

also...i unhooked a sound system that somebody else wired for me...is it possible i accidentally did something wrong that could be draining my battery?

 

removed a power cable from the battery to the amp, a power wire from the head unit to the amp, and then the audio cables from the head unit to the amp...it had a cut off switch, theres 2 wires that i left open, just tucked them up into my dash because i wasnt sure what they were....and actually i think there was only one wire i tucked in i think i removed one...

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ok...i traced the wire i left open...its spliced into a blue wire on the head unit...if i disconnect it and leave that blue wire open, the radio has no power and wont start...but if i leave it connected it will, even though the wire from the switch doesnt go anywhere....theres a cut wire next to it that also goes to the head unit...its the one with the clear cap on it...shoudl i splice the one with the cap into the one with the blue electric tape, and delete the switch wire?

 

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i82/SaleenSS90/CIMG0337Medium.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i82/SaleenSS90/CIMG0336Medium.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i82/SaleenSS90/CIMG0335Medium.jpg

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ok well...unhooked that wire that is there with the blue electrical tape...and the radio still works even though it didnt before....so now every part of the sound system is uninstalled...just gonan tape up the open end of the blue wire...that work?

 

 

**band aids are for work

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Guest tbutera2112
i dont have one...ill pick one up if i head to autozone...the car is on a battery tender, hopefully it will just start in a few hours...do you think that wire could have caused the battery to die?
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yea the pics suck because its dark out and the flash is over powering....it was a wire that ran from the head unit to a switch...the switch had one wire running to a ground, and one wire running to the power supply on my amp...if i flipped the switch it would light up and the amp would turn on, if i flipped it closed the amp would turn off and so would the switch so i disconnected that wire and now ill see if that helps
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The wire you are talking about SHOULD be the power antenna wire, assuming it was installed right in the first place. I have no idea why that switch would need grounded. Assuming that wire actually is the power antenna, it only has power when the stereo is on.

 

Any time you have bare wires, you should at least tape them up, especially if you don't know what they are.

 

As for roll starting, so long as your alternator is working and there isn't a break in the electrical system, it shouldn't be a problem. You can use reverse no problem, while going forward first or second is fine. Just make sure the key is in the ON position, I forgot to turn it once, and that was an annoying mistake to make.

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thanks...and it was installed by my dads friend who used to do it professionally...and i figured the wire was a long shot....i just dont see what else could have caused a brand new $200 battery to die over a 3 day period

 

 

as for starting it, its on a charger right now....ill try to start it in a few hours

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ok it charged for 5-6 hours and the light was still red...tried to start it and it still wont start...it makes a whoop whoop whoop sound like it wants to start but it just wont....i hooked it up to a battery tester and i set it at 12v and the reading says the battery is good, its almost all the way over in the green.....the battery was obviously dead because after 6 hours it wasnt charged, but now that its in the green zone im confused on why it will not start...ill let it charge up all the way, but then im left puzzled as to what caused it to die in the first place....

 

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i82/SaleenSS90/281991479_955506610_0.jpg

 

theres the meter im using...its all i got

 

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i82/SaleenSS90/281995449_955521421_0.jpg

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figured out how my sct liewire works...it has a digital voltmeter...i have between 13-13.5v while driving... 12.9-13.1 with lights, wipers, stereo, hazards, and a/c on...13.2-13.5 just driving with the stereo...so i think the battery is good...maybe it was just a fluke that it died?

 

heres a video, you can see the rpm on the right and the big number is the voltage... shouldnt it jump to 14.x when i give it gas?

 

http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i82/SaleenSS90/?action=view&current=CIMG0339.flv

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might have a bad connection at one of the battery terminals, that would allow the battery to have a full charge but not transfer the power to the rest of the car. With the car off, you said the headlights are dim? With the car off, they won't be as bright as with it running regardless, but if they barely light up, then you know there is an issue.
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Your Optima might have taken a shit, just becuase it's an Optima doesn't make it better. My buddy went through 3 redtops before he got one that wouldn't lose a charge, and this was on his stock Honda that sees no mods just mpg happiness.
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Guest tbutera2112

ok well...the negative was a little loose i think...the car was clicking real bad at first then i popped the hood and hammered the negative on a bit more (flathead around the lip and tapped it on, didnt hit the actual terminal) and then the clicking stopped it just wouldnt start...i jumped it and everything looks good...took it to advanced and they tested it for me but it didnt have enough charge...he said from watching the volts drop it didnt look bad but that he wants me to bring it back in the morning after its fully charged *have it on a battery tender jr* and he will look at it again...so i guess ill wait until tomorrow morning...as of now its on a charger and im trying to buy a new car this week anyways, so maybe ill get lucky and get a responce on one of the 3 beaters i emailed about...thanks for the help guys, guess ill just wait until its charged and stop by advanced on my way to school and have it checked...my new guess is i had a loose terminal and that caused it to not charge properly...the clicking sound sounded like a spark, so im guessing the terminal was sparking when i was trying to start it...soon as i tapped it on better no more spark noise...heres a video of the clicking it was making this morning

 

http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i82/SaleenSS90/?action=view&current=CIMG0334.flv

 

sorry im such a noob at all this electrical crap...im taking a class for it next semester so maybe ill learn a thing or two haha, thanks for all the help guys

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