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5 grand, 11 second DSM


2highpsi

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This I would like to see... 3 back to back runs at 3 track visits for a total of 9 runs at a frequency of 3 runs/month for 3 months with daily driving in between. I would assume this is on some sort of slick?

 

Bobby? Are you on here?

 

Cheap, Reliable, Fast. 11s for 5 grand including the price of the car is not going to be reliable. If they are I am buying one to add to my garage.

 

How can we move this post to the lounge or passing lane entitled DSM 11s for 5 grand? reliable? or something along those lines.

 

 

I made this post here so we can continue the discussion from the Oven....

 

Like I said we are working on one now. The biggest problems is he doesn't have 5 grand sitting around, so we are getting stuff part by part. It might be the end of the season before it makes a pass.

 

Slicks are not needed on the car. 1.6 60s can be had on street tires.

 

The engine will be reliable. I am sure I could launch on the stock drivetrain all day long. This is his 1st all wheel drive car though. It's not out of the question that a driveline failure will put us over the 5 grand mark.

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so how is this going to be done? IE what type DSM obviously an awd turbo version to start? I am assuming having the machining done professionally with a quality home assembly, with better head gaskets, quality forged low comp pistons overbored, home built turbo manifolds or cut flange off existing manifold and weld new flange for bigger junkyard turbo with factory intercooler, some sort of adjustable wastegate/blowoff setup, and a laptop custom tune using some sort of efi hacking software?

 

I would like to help if possible/learn all I can....

 

Low 12s, high 11s would be enough for me if reliable on street tires.

 

Is this with a full weight DSM with full interior and air conditioning/stock radio that you can hear, and a suspension you can live with?

 

What does a DSM weigh? Can the clutch handle all this extra power? and if it can can the halfshafts?

 

Some guy wanted to trade me even for my fox coupe a 450 allwheelhp version of one of these and I told him I would pass as I had heard too many bad things about them.

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We are starting with a 1990 Eclipse GSX. It's a turbo all wheel drive car. The engines in these car less likely to crank walk. The crank walk problem seems to plague the second gens (95-99). It's only got the 3 bold rear end though, we will probably upgrade it to the stronger 4 bolt. I think we will be able to do that for ~400.
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We are starting with a 1990 Eclipse GSX. It's a turbo all wheel drive car. The engines in these car less likely to crank walk. The crank walk problem seems to plague the second gens (95-99). It's only got the 3 bold rear end though, we will probably upgrade it to the stronger 4 bolt. I think we will be able to do that for ~400.

 

see edits above.

 

Crank walk? IE positive pressure (boost) pushes crank out the bottom of the block or sideways and spins bearings?

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There is so much info about these cars online it is ridiculous. You just have to sift through a lot of BS. You are more than welcome to come down anytime we are working on it.

 

thats my problem and why I avoid clubrsx as well even though our type S is a sweet car- they are more interested in if people think its a chick car or how to add neons than how to make them fast and there are 100 posers for every one that knows what he/she is actually talking about.

 

Where are you guys? I will pm.

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I am assuming having the machining done professionally with a quality home assembly, with better head gaskets, quality forged low comp pistons overbored, home built turbo manifolds or cut flange off existing manifold and weld new flange for bigger junkyard turbo with factory intercooler, some sort of adjustable wastegate/blowoff setup, and a laptop custom tune using some sort of efi hacking software?

 

 

I personally think the stock head gasket gets the job done. Its going to keep a bolt on style turbo. Probably an 18g, maybe a 20g. It has a big 16g on it now (the factory is a 14b). It has a manual boost controller, probably the simplest device on earth. Right now it is running a blow thru setup with a GM MAF, maf translator, and an apexi air fuel controller. I might ditch the maf setup and go back to a stock one if I have problems with tuning it.

 

 

 

Is this with a full weight DSM with full interior and air conditioning/stock radio that you can hear, and a suspension you can live with?

 

What does a DSM weigh? Can the clutch handle all this extra power? and if it can can the halfshafts?

 

Some guy wanted to trade me even for my fox coupe a 450 allwheelhp version of one of these and I told him I would pass as I had heard too many bad things about them.

 

The cars weigh around 3200 from the factory I think. We will remove all the sound deadening and some other BS we don't need. It will look like a street car. I think he plans on retaining the A/C. Yes it will have a CD player. It has an upgraded clutch already, we still might need a better one. The factory clutch would not hold the power.

 

Heres a good article on crank walk :

http://www.car-forums.com/s15/t4460.html

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this can be done easily.

 

ive thought about this as well. take a good running dsm all stock (ive had 2 awds for 1500)

so car 1500

turbo set up 600

injectors 300

exhaust 200-300

comptuers-400

intake- 200-300

clutch-250

misc parts 450-550

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this can be done easily.

 

ive thought about this as well. take a good running dsm all stock (ive had 2 awds for 1500)

so car 1500

turbo set up 600

injectors 300

exhaust 200-300

comptuers-400

intake- 200-300

clutch-250

misc parts 450-550

 

We already have most of the stuff and only have $1800 in it so far, including the car.

 

Your estimates are more realistic. We are doing the super ultra mega tight ass build, and only buying the stuff when we get a hell of a deal on it.

 

Again I will state, the car is not pretty. Its not rusted up, but it needs a paint job. That will be the LAST thing we do.

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The way I see it with 3200 lbs (assuming loaded with driver) you are going to need roughly 450 rwhp to go consistently low 11s.

 

Example- my coupe 5.0 with a race weight with me in it of 3150 lbs runs low 12s with 365 rwhp- a more abusive driver or more practice might put this car at high 11s with a 1.6 60', sure lots of mustang guys get 1.4 60' but not in a trim that is driveable on the street. And that is with slicks. AWD will help get those 1.6s which we will use as argument sake as you suggest they can achieve that on street tires.

 

What is a stock 1G DSM rated at? 150 allwhp?

 

The stock bottom end/head gaskets has been overengineered by the facotry by 300%?

 

How much boost are we talking with any of these?

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The car will not weigh 3200 when its done. I said it will LOOK like a street car.

 

I don't get caught up in HP figures. It all depends on the dyno. As far as too much HP for stock stuff:

 

I know of 800hp 4g63s running stock head gaskets and 500hp 4g63s running bone stock bottom ends.

 

When people kill these motors it is usually due to a bad tune, snapped timing belt, or improper maintenance.

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I know thats why I said high 11s... .2-.3 = .4-.6 at the top...

 

12.3 - .4-.6 = 11.7-11.9.

 

800 hp and 20 psi on stock head gaskets, WOW is it a o-ringed design from the factory? ARP head bolts at least?

 

Not really doubting- trying to learn.

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I know thats why I said high 11s... .2-.3 = .4-.6 at the top...

 

12.3 - .4-.6 = 11.7-11.9.

 

800 hp and 20 psi on stock head gaskets, WOW is it a o-ringed design from the factory? ARP head bolts at least?

 

Not really doubting- trying to learn.

 

the 800 hp cars are running a lot more than 20psi

 

Yes we will use different head studs

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You can't put fast and reliable in the same sentence.. especially when DSM is in there too :)

 

 

ive seen pleanty fast relaible dsms. their just not driven much!

 

if you can get the car to put out 450awhp you will defentily be in the 11s.

 

 

Stock dsms are rated i belive 200hp. and run 14.4-14.7s. There are a ton of different ways to build the car if you want to. you can run a evo316g put cams in it, build the head, tune the shit out of it and run 11s. it just depends how well you are with tuning and how much time you really want to put into the car. im running a gt35r and hope to make 550awhp but im not going to have a shit ton of time into the tune. Coltboostin built his car dirt cheap and i belive he traped like 140s, and was just a fwd.

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DSMs get a bad rap because of some of the people that own them. If they weren't so cheap and easy to find, less idiots that don't know what they are doing would buy them.

 

 

that is the fucking truth its all the fucking 16 year old idiots with these cars, you can build a competive bottom end for ungodley cheap, using the early 1g rods and a set of forged pistons then your good to go for cheap. I mean look at the 240 crowd also they all mostly have junky ass cars 95% of all the "drift" guys have the most ugly beat up pos cars ever, they have no room to even talk about dsm's.

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That is the honest to go truth. Kids "hear" about the potential, buy a 18 year old car, and instead of catching up on all of the obvious maintenance, throw a boost controller and exhaust on the car and start screwing with 20psi. I drove my 12sec dsm 50k a year for a while. Had close to 300k, miles on it when I sold it, had been through 3 owners and was still on the stock longblock. I beat the ever living shit out of that car.
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