Trouble Maker Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 So I'm replacing the drive shaft. Car is a 2000 Audi S4. It's flanged in the front and the back. Everything is unbolted, but the flanges won't come apart. Got advice to just work with it for a while, try to put something like a chisel between the two to work them apart, hit the drive shaft side with a mallete, with a hammer through a piece of wood. It's not budging. AFAIK there's a gasket between them and the car has 165kmi. on the odomoter, so they are just stuck together really well. Any advice or tricks to get these things apart? TIA, Jesse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Double check for bolts, and wedge in a long pry bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rch10007 Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Can you just grab it and slide it back away from the tranny? Do you have a lady finger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted September 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Can you just grab it and slide it back away from the tranny? Do you have a lady finger? Why are you asking about me fingering my lady? Pervert! I have no idea what a lady finger is. It's a 2 piece drive shaft with CV joints at the front and rear. Then in the middle it has a u-joint, bearing and rubber support around the bearing. The rubber support and possibly the bearing failed on mine. It's a pretty common thing. If I slide it forward or backward that force/movement is taken up by the CV joints. I can't exactly tell what is going on with the rear flanges, where I have been working. I'm working on the rear because it's fully accessible, where the front I have to work around the down pipes (they are VERY hard to remove). I can't tell if they flanges are flat against each other, or if the front (drive shaft) part sits down inside of the rear (diff) part, like a cup. I got to this point on Monday because of the day off. I ordered the drive shaft last Wednesday, and due to parts supply, shipping time, and the holiday weekend, it will be here tomorrow. So unfortunately I don't have the new one in front of me to see what's going on at the flanges better. Once I can see what's going on with the joints better, I may be able to use a long pry bar. Although there's not a lot of surface area (almost none) to work with where you would pry on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rch10007 Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Sorry, I call them lady fingers: http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00997829000?hei=250&wid=250&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0 I guess I can't help much although i'm looking around the net for answers on pulling the shaft... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted September 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 It's still an issue of surface area to pry on. I actually got something to move, but quickly put it back. As I'm pretty sure it's just a stamped piece that helps to cover up the joint. I will post pics tomorrow of the drive shaft after I get it, unless from what the flanges look like I can figure it out (but I will post something either way). Even if you called that by whatever it's proper name may be, I probably wouldn't have known what you were talking about. Thanks for all of the help guys! :bangbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 ihave a large brass punch and bfh for these. knocking the flange loose is a pita. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 Isnt there a center bearing? Did you unbolt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted September 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Isnt there a center bearing? Did you unbolt it? Yup. That only allows as much play as is in on or the other CV joint at the end. But I can't put enough lateral torque on it to do anything. They are stuck together very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted September 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 ihave a large brass punch and bfh for these. knocking the flange loose is a pita. Even with the piece in front of me now, without measuring it and the other, or at least having them next to each other (car is at my parents house so I can use their garage), I still can't see exactly what's going on with the flanges. Can you put that punch, or something, between the two flanges? In other words, do they just sit flat against each other? I'm worried one (the drive shaft part) sits 'inside' of the other (rear diff). If they do what I just described then I can't get anything in between them, and I'm just banging on one of the flanges with a chisel/punch and doing just about nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 is this the setup with 6 to 8 bolts that hold the 2 flanges together? like a vw front axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 pulling up alldata, with pics just for you....give me a few cause this looks like a pita, looks like there are 3 plates there, (at the rearend anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Removing If fitted, remove cross piece below exhaust system. Remove rear section of exhaust system (rearward of exhaust pipe clamp(s)): Removing Remove heat shields above driveshaft. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/104383920.gif Remove heat shield for driveshaft from cover for Torsen differential (arrows). http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/104383921.gif Check whether there is a factory marking (paint spots (arrows)) on the driveshaft flange and the flange on the rear final drive. If not, mark the position of the driveshaft flange -A- in relation to the rear final drive (arrow -B-) with paint. Note: Only mark if the same driveshaft is to be reinstalled. Loosen securing bolts on both driveshaft flanges. Unscrew three upper securing bolts on each driveshaft constant velocity joint. Loosen securing bolts of center driveshaft mounting slightly. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/104383922.gif Note: Never fit assembly appliance onto balance plates. Remove securing bolts of flange to transmission and to rear final drive as well as securing bolts of center driveshaft mounting. Slide driveshaft together toward rear final drive. Constant velocity joints move along their axis. Guide out driveshaft with assembly appliance past transmission flange. Note: Only transport and store driveshaft when extended. Installing Installation is carried out in the reverse order, when doing this note the following: Note: It is essential that the locking fluid remaining in the threads in the drive flanges on the transmission and rear final drive is cleaned out after the driveshaft. Otherwise there is a danger that the new bolts will seize when they are screwed in and then shear if they have to removed later. The threaded holes can be cleaned with a thread tap. Replace the gaskets on the drive flanges (remove backing foil and stick gaskets onto drive flange; make sure that the surfaces are free of grease). http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/104383921.gif To prevent imbalance, the flanges on the driveshaft -A- and on the rear final drive -B- must be installed so that the factory markings (or the markings made on removal) are in alignment (arrows). If a new driveshaft is being installed and the factory paint marking on the rear final drive flange is no longer visible, the radial run-out at the flange for the driveshaft must be measured, Refer to Radial Runabout at Driveshaft Flange and Marking, Measuring. and the paint marking on the driveshaft must be aligned with the marking on the flange. After removing the driveshaft from the rear final drive, the additional balance disk (thick washer) that may be located between the lock plate and the bolt head must not be reinstalled. Always replace all flange bolts after disassembling. Replace driveshaft bolts (self-locking). Adjust driveshaft after installing, Refer to Drive/Propeller Shaft, Adjusting Align exhaust system free of stress. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/104383924.gif dont know what to tell you other then this is what alldata says to do.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted September 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 dont know what to tell you other then this is what alldata says to do.... Thanks man. I actually have a CD based Bentley manual and it's the exact same instruction's/drawings. The only good thing is that I have the torque specs on hand now! Sorry to make you post all of that. Got everything out of the way super easy. Now everything is unbolted for the drive shaft, the fucker is just stuck! So it looks like with the back one, the flange for the drive shaft does sit a little inside of a 'cup' for the rear diff flange. Which only tells me what I didn't want the situation to be, because now I can't get in between the two flanges. But at least I know that now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWW$HEEET Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 Unbolt the shit, start car, put in gear, drive around block. I bet it falls out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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