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Synthetic Oil


Buck531

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Try reading the thread, ie; listening to the conversation the group is having first, before giving input. ;)

 

Mobil 1 oil and filter. Generally, much easier to attain than the other synthetics.

 

Here's some helpful information.

 

Oil filter brand info

 

Motor oil info

Note the Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil part-way down and the link to another site (among others), http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/, an excellent site.

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you need to be careful switching to synthetic with a car that has high miles you could end up ruining your oil pump and blowing the engine, more common on toyotas but have seen it on other makes the oil pumps if weak have trouble pumping the thicker oil and eventually get plugged up
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you need to be careful switching to synthetic with a car that has high miles you could end up ruining your oil pump and blowing the engine, more common on toyotas but have seen it on other makes the oil pumps if weak have trouble pumping the thicker oil and eventually get plugged up

 

thats the dumbest thing i have ever read. thicker oil? its the same weight as regular oil of the same grade.

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you need to be careful switching to synthetic with a car that has high miles you could end up ruining your oil pump and blowing the engine, more common on toyotas but have seen it on other makes the oil pumps if weak have trouble pumping the thicker oil and eventually get plugged up

 

 

I think somebody fed you "stupid" pills today

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As it's already been stated...there are soo many reason in favor of Synthetic oil that it should be a no brainer. It'd be hard to justify situations where it's NOT worth it.

 

I run Mobile 1 in the A4 as I feel it's "good enough" for my daily driven street car. At 165K miles I still keep change intervals low on that car (3500 miles) but it never reall gets driven hard anymore.

 

For more agressive applications there a better oils than Mobile1 though. I run Redline in the 996 and Castrol motorsport oil in the M3. Both come it at approx. $10 a quart but I fully believe that I should do everything possible to protect those engines as I drive them harder than the M3.

 

Andy

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Mobil1 in both of my cars (Corvette and Passat). Passat has gone 90k miles since day one with no problems. Corvette has 85k miles with no problems...hardly any leaks. When I replaced a valve cover gasket, valvetrain looked almost brand new with no deposits or buildup...

 

Shell Rotella in my diesel Silverado. HOT ROD Magazine has shown that Rotella is one of the last dino oils with a good amount of zinc left in it.

 

Both Mobil1 and Rotella I purchase at Wal*Mart. Oil filters, too.

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If you are running a high mileage vehicle that has always used dino there is a good chance it will start leaking with synth oil.

 

Biggest (proven) advantage is the longer service intervals.

 

I do believe in Mobil1 or K&N filters though.

 

The leaking occurs when the buildup in the engine is removed, most synthetic oils have better cleaning agents than the cheaper stuff. For t his reason i wouldnot switch to SYnthetic in a motor with 100k+ miles and 8-10 years of street life on it already.

 

I use mobile 1 in all my vewhicles and change the filter at 3k miles, top off, and go another 3k, this offsets the cost and i have seen private oil tests showing where just by changing the filter in syn oil theat all the parameters stay in check for 12k miles or more. But i dont go that far, it's just my preference.

 

i tore the motor down from my old mustang when it gor wrecked at 128k miles, started that regiment at 65K when i bought it, there was literally NO deposits in the motor at all, is was super clean even in the most common areas like the oil pan and in the valleys around the valve covers.

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I can't wait to show everyone something once I dig it up..

 

 

Here's a hint of what I'm trying to find:

 

Mobil 1 isn't full synthetic here in the USA.

 

Here are the commonly found oils that are true synthetics sold in the US:

Red Line

Royal Purple

Amsoil

Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol)…only comes in 0W-30, sold at AutoZone.

There are others...this is not an all inclusive list.

 

How about the others marketed as synthetic?

 

Mobil 1 was PAO based until recently…it’s been confirmed that at least two of their oils have been switched to Group III. Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 and 15W-50. Since these are Mobil’s top-of-the-line, I suspect their remaining oils have done the same.

 

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38811

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Here are the commonly found oils that are true synthetics sold in the US:

Red Line

Royal Purple

Amsoil

Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol)…only comes in 0W-30, sold at AutoZone.

There are others...this is not an all inclusive list.

 

How about the others marketed as synthetic?

 

Mobil 1 was PAO based until recently…it’s been confirmed that at least two of their oils have been switched to Group III. Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 and 15W-50. Since these are Mobil’s top-of-the-line, I suspect their remaining oils have done the same.

 

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38811

 

 

EXACTLY.

 

From memory, in Europe it was outlawed for oil manufactures to bottle and market their products as a full synthetic when it was truely syn-blend. Long story short here in the US we haven't come to those terms yet and we still get marketed full synthetics which are really not, to a worldwide standard.

 

That list that AJ provided includes TRUE synthetics among other smaller names like ELF which is now Pentosin, Torco and etc. that you can find if you look around.

 

And you wonder why those Amsoil tests show ungodly improvements over all other US, "Synthetics"... US synthetics aren't really synthetics :)

 

The easiest way to identify a full synthetic is if the oil was bottled and regulated by a European manufacturer. Usually, from my understanding, it is labelled on the bottles somewhere.. but you can also look online and do the research for yourself to find out what oils qualify by Europes synthetic standards.

 

Being a VW owner has made me aware of so many things, I can't help it. :(

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Here are the commonly found oils that are true synthetics sold in the US:

Red Line

Royal Purple

Amsoil

Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol)…only comes in 0W-30, sold at AutoZone.

There are others...this is not an all inclusive list.

This is so true. 10 years ago AMSoil was about it, that is why it was so hard to beleive it's claims, until you really understood what you were comparing. I used to use it, but I don't have to drive very far to get Royal Purple.

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to mimic everyone else, Synthetic has many benefits over dino oil.

 

I run dino in my old truck and in my FD because I change the oil ever 1K miles due to fuel dillution.

 

I run Mobil 1 in the M3 and keep the change intervals reasonable (3-4K). I would run Castrol 10w-60 if it wasn't $10 a quart and the car wasn't my DD.

 

Factory filters on everything except the truck.

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Advanced Auto now and then has a great deal on Mobil 1 synthetic oil and Mobil 1 filters, its works out to buying 5 quarts of oil (about $23) and getting the filter free (they are usually $10-12.) I stocked up the last time they ran that, I use only M1 oil and filters on my cars.

 

Also, there is at least a material difference between 'regular' filters and 'synthetic' filters, being that a synthetic filter doesn't use paper, cotton, or other organics for the filter material, instead they use a nylon/poly mesh (if i recall). Whether this makes a difference or not, who knows, but I have a gut feeling that its easier to control quality on an inorganic material.

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I use mobile 1 in all my vewhicles and change the filter at 3k miles, top off, and go another 3k, this offsets the cost and i have seen private oil tests showing where just by changing the filter in syn oil theat all the parameters stay in check for 12k miles or more. But i dont go that far, it's just my preference.

 

How do you change the filter without draining the oil? Do you seriously let the oil pour out all over you and the garage floor at full speed until you can get another one securely threaded in place or is there a trick I am missing?

 

Waitaminute- the filter is higher up and not connected to the pan- I wonder if it only drains to a certain point- all these years... hmmm

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How do you change the filter without draining the oil? Do you seriously let the oil pour out all over you and the garage floor at full speed until you can get another one securely threaded in place or is there a trick I am missing?

 

Waitaminute- the filter is higher up and not connected to the pan- I wonder if it only drains to a certain point- all these years... hmmm

 

Oil only goes to the filter when the engine is running. Its powered by a pump, not gravity. The only oil you lose is the amount that the oil filter holds, and the little bit left in the line.

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You work at Wal-Mart? Greeter? How much do you save?

Joke - Failed.

 

WalMart doesn't even sell Royal Purple. It's already been said they sell Mobil 1. I'd like to say it's due to your redneck reading comprehension (or lack thereof) but since you are what you are, then I know you've been into WalMart, barefoot'n it around, picking up mullet gel or putting things on layaway and have seen they don't carry Royal Purple. ;)

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