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Engine problem..Help!


Termin8er04

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I was driving the cobra today and all was good. I did a WOT blast 2 3 and halfway through 4th...As I coasted the car stalled. I turned it back on and it was a really rough idle and when i gave it gas it would buck (on off on off).

 

I made it to a parking lot where a met another cobra(first time). He followed me to NTB(friend works there). I thought it was my plugs or maf..We pulled the plugs all was fine..The maf was fine as well. No leaks everything was fine. We Took the battery off for 5min and would it still Idled like I had a crazy Cam.

 

I attempted to limp her home for the night..It still bucked and surged like crazy and stalling at every light. (I look like a fool)

 

 

Thanks

Mike

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Mike,

 

I replied to your PM. Let me know if you hear any weird sucking noises or anything. If it will idle long enough to try it, unplug the MAF while it's running.

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only way to test the maf properly is to watch its wave form (signal) back to the ecu.

unpluggin it will just make it die.

2 you may have hurt something, like popped a gasket or what not on this WOT pull.

 

im thinking vacuum leak or maf has went shitty

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If you unplug the MAF on one of these cars and it is the problem, the idle will drop the smooth out. The car usually won't die, it runs of preset tables.

 

I do agree with the gasket issue. I've also seen the pressure hose blow off the back of the blower.

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If you unplug the MAF on one of these cars and it is the problem, the idle will drop the smooth out. The car usually won't die, it runs of preset tables.

 

I do agree with the gasket issue. I've also seen the pressure hose blow off the back of the blower.

 

and how you going to say that hal? your car wouldnt even run with it unpluged. fail try again

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Mike,

 

I replied to your PM. Let me know if you hear any weird sucking noises or anything. If it will idle long enough to try it, unplug the MAF while it's running.

 

I hear a sucking noise, but it wasn't there befor NTB. I don't think I put the intake on enough in the fender. I will check her out again tom. and report back.

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only way to test the maf properly is to watch its wave form (signal) back to the ecu.

unpluggin it will just make it die.

2 you may have hurt something, like popped a gasket or what not on this WOT pull.

 

im thinking vacuum leak or maf has went shitty

 

The car did this a week ago just not as bad and it only lasted like 2 min..Don't know if that rules out a gasket.

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anyone think it's the FRPS?

 

no if that was shorting out it would refuse to start

check the hose on the back of the intake.

 

like tom is saying, and hal said earlyer

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The pressure hose goes to the lower port on the back of the blower. The top port is for vacuum.

 

I am pretty sure this is the FRPS, can't believe I forgot that. The diaphragm inside ruptures pretty often after WOT pulls, I haven't heard of one with a wiring issue before.

 

Rob, my car has run multiple times with the MAF unplugged. I guess you weren't there any time other than when it had a leak after the MAF :rolleyes:

 

Mike, like I said in the PM. Let's get some time and I'll run my FRPS and try it out on your car. Make sure to smell the dipstick before we go that far though.

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frps are bad on the taurus's about shorting out and keeping them from running or starting period!

i havent came across one where the diaphragm just goes tho.

 

 

and hal, even then you unpluged it, and it still wouldnt run

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Tom, swing by the dyno when you get your car running again. I'll throw a little zip tie on which will keep that hose from sliding off. You want to be really careful not to allow it to come off too easily.
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frps are bad on the taurus's about shorting out and keeping them from running or starting period!

i havent came across one where the diaphragm just goes tho.

 

These things are built stupidly. A simple Kenne Bell spacer tends to keep them from blowing anymore. It's a poor design IMO.

 

They usually only blow under high boost but, if you run the car hard a lot a pullied Eaton with pop one. The easiest way to diag is to smell the dipstick for gas.

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its only happened twice both at the end of hard pulls once at the track tho scared me to death

I thought I popped my motor first time it happened to me. 150 shot shiftin' into 4th by Easton and the car just died. I had a big frown until the next morning when I looked at it.

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could be FRPS (some won't restart, some will run rough with a blown frps), could be the vacuum leak as stated above---hope its one of those two. if not, my vote goes for a compression test, and hope you didn't fry one of the pistons.

 

what are your mods?? cooling mods??

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It was the FRPS!!! I started it with the FRPS(still messed up) on then took it off. She ran fine when it was off. Thank god. Thanks for everyones help..Hopefully I will get this part and be back in the game!

 

Thanks again!

 

Kenne Bell makes a FRPS disk that sits in the opening on the fuel rail. This helps to "release" some of the excess pressure on the FRPS that kills them. I emailed Kenne Bell after trying to reach them, since their phone is always busy. They ended up sending me one for nothing. I've read that these are a necessary upgrade with the PPRV delete that I did. Just a thought.

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i have deleted the pprv on my car because i had the dreaded 'hesitation' between shifts issue. deleted the pprv, added the kb frps disc, and have never blown an frps (knock on wood). i had to pay $15 for mine---tiny washer with a hole in it. check your oil to make sure it doesn't smell like gas. when the frps blows, it can (not always) allow quite a bit of fuel into your crankcase, necessitating an oil change.

 

most common inciting event of a blown frps??? ----a missed shift, where you over-rev the car.

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