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wood deck vs. stone/concrete patio


evan9381

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I have 2 wooden decks off the back of the house that were built in the mid 80's. I have to periodically pound nails back in, and like everyone has mentioned, stain it annually or at least every other year. If built right, they last a very long time.

 

I just had a pool put in, and went with stamped tan concrete around it. I love the look. But it did cost $12 a sq. foot. Not the cheap route, but really did pick up the tan siding, and goes real well with the house color. If you end up looking into stamped concrete, be prepared for the sticker shock that comes with the extra work of applying the release agent and stamping it.

 

The back of my house looks allot like yours with all the wires coming up the back, and the heat pump right next to it.(Built in 1977) Now I also have a pool heater, pump and filter there. We have azalia(sp) bushes right out back that I plan to extend back across the mechanicals. The bushes create a hedge about 3 feet tall, and hide allot of that. A small hedge of some kind would do wonders to hide your wires and heat pump.

 

Good luck with the project.

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I build and do restoration on decks and heres a tip or two. 1) Lay out the deck WITHOUT the utilities included. On that side, come 3 or 4 feet off you back door and then across the back of the house with a 4' or 5' shadow box privacy fence. It will improve the look of the house, quiet the A/C and give you a clean line to start from.

2) you can build a 20x16 deck in two weekends for way under 2 grand with three guys. Cellar lumber in Westerville puts every other source to shame when it comes to quality of decking. I would be happy to do a material list for you after you decide size and shape.

3) don't think about staining the new deck for 6 to 9 months. A properly prepared / stained deck should last 2 - 3 years unless in alot of direct sunlight. Verticals maybe 5 years. It should take no more then 5 hours out of your life every couple years. If you like wood, and most of us can't afford composite, thats not too bad.

Hope this helps.

Ron

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im starting to think, maybe a wood deck with a small poured concrete area off the corner for a fire pit might be nice...maybe put the fire pit off the corner that goes more towards the middle of the yard.

 

Ron, i'll probably take you up on that offer to try to put together a plan. let me figure out a few things and ill shoot you a PM to see when you have some free time

 

Evan

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Concrete all the way. Don't waste your money on a wood deck. I have one on my house and the sun is beating the shit out of it. Didn't have a choice since my house is a bi-level and its off my kitchen upstairs. I have concrete on ground level and love it.

 

Concrete = little to no maintance

 

Wood = maintance every other year, replace or rebuild in 15 years unless you do composite.

 

Pavers = uneven after a few years, some maintance here and there

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We've had our wood deck for about 30 years with minimal upkeep (staining/pressure washing). Some tips from the old country,

 

-Lay the foundation well below the frostline and anchor well

-Use a hard, Pressure Treated wood

-Run the decking verticle (smallest width of the board is facing up), toe nailing/screwing each board

-Stain & Seal

 

The largest problems youll find with decks are varmit getting underneath, so, lay some chicken/bailing wire down when you are laying the foundation.

 

I can't argue against a concreate patio as that's pretty simple and gets the job done, all in personal taste.

-

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wow lot of information going on in this thread.

 

If it was me i would do a Paver Patio. It is better than a stamped concrete slab. One because it provides different color options and a mix of colors as well. Two, It definitely provides a better look down the road.

 

Pavers are pretty easy to put down and do yourself. Especially since you have an easy open area to work with. Since you want to build up to have a level step coming off the house it isnt a problem.

 

All you need is the following:

1:Underlayment, this helps retain the base material from going into the dirt and causing your patio to sink later.

2: Base material #411/46D This is your foundation/footer of the patio

3: Plate compactor, this is used to compact the base material. compact 2 inches at a time otherwise you will be at it all day

4: #9's - this is used only as the final leveling material for your pavers. It is spread out an inch think over the base and the pavers sit right on top of them.

5: Pavers

6: Polymeric sand- this is brushed in once everything is completed, it a polymer so it will harder up and keep your bricks from moving. It does not need reapplied.

7: mortar - We use this around the edge of the pavers instead of edging material. Edging usually pops up over the years and can brings your pavers with it. Mortar works a lot better.

8: Grinder/Chop to make any cuts necessary.

 

It may seem like a lot but for what you are doing it wouldnt be too hard. The only thing is if you do build up you will need a wallstone to hook in the base material.

 

Check out this site for more pictures of things to help you figure something out.

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