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Rear turbo - C4 Corvette?


zeitgeist57

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the lt1 is out of time. you can start with a stock ls1 and be ahead of the game

Odd that they still are developing new aftermarket parts for the LT1.

 

If you were looking to do a max effort (1000+ HP) motor, I wouldn't go LT1. Below that, have at it...has been done for years with great results. Block is strong, and AFR 210's or better will get the job done heads wise. Ported stock or sheet metal intake and you are golden. Plenty of stock style suspension cars in the 8's and 9's running LT1's.

 

If you want to go exotic, try to score yourself a set of 32v Dominion heads. THAT is different, though not worth the extensive work/money involved to get an unproven setup to work.

 

And seriously, if I hear another retarded Opti comment. Do you know how many different solutions there are for the Opti problem, which BTW isn't nearly the problem people make it out to be. Yes, they will fail eventually, mine died @ around 80k, non-vented unit. $190 later, all fixed, no issues after that. Can go the MSD route, coil pack route, or a pile of other alternatives IF YOU NEED TO - most folks can stick with a stocker and be perfectly fine.

 

Shitty LT1: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/My-friend-Ricks-1996-LT1_2272.htm (and it ran faster than that before he parted it out due to getting out of racing).

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Odd that they still are developing new aftermarket parts for the LT1.

 

If you were looking to do a max effort (1000+ HP) motor, I wouldn't go LT1. Below that, have at it...has been done for years with great results. Block is strong, and AFR 210's or better will get the job done heads wise. Ported stock or sheet metal intake and you are golden. Plenty of stock style suspension cars in the 8's and 9's running LT1's.

 

If you want to go exotic, try to score yourself a set of 32v Dominion heads. THAT is different, though not worth the extensive work/money involved to get an unproven setup to work.

 

And seriously, if I hear another retarded Opti comment. Do you know how many different solutions there are for the Opti problem, which BTW isn't nearly the problem people make it out to be. Yes, they will fail eventually, mine died @ around 80k, non-vented unit. $190 later, all fixed, no issues after that. Can go the MSD route, coil pack route, or a pile of other alternatives IF YOU NEED TO - most folks can stick with a stocker and be perfectly fine.

 

Shitty LT1: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/My-friend-Ricks-1996-LT1_2272.htm (and it ran faster than that before he parted it out due to getting out of racing).

 

im not going to argue with you about it since your obviously biased to the lt1. but i work on them both for a living, and i dont own either. lsx>lt1

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im not going to argue with you about it since your obviously biased to the lt1. but i work on them both for a living, and i dont own either. lsx>lt1

I never said the LSx wasn't a better motor...it is. But you are acting like it isn't worth building an LT1, and that is total BS.

 

A lot of LT1 parts are much less expensive than LSx parts as well (such as the rotating assembly).

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And seriously, if I hear another retarded Opti comment. Do you know how many different solutions there are for the Opti problem, which BTW isn't nearly the problem people make it out to be. Yes, they will fail eventually, mine died @ around 80k, non-vented unit. $190 later, all fixed, no issues after that. Can go the MSD route, coil pack route, or a pile of other alternatives IF YOU NEED TO - most folks can stick with a stocker and be perfectly fine.

 

 

I take it this guy is partial to the LT1?!?

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Ask him how the ignition is on these motors. I had an LT1 car and for the $$ and my goals we found it was better to put a built carbed small block in it.

 

LT1's are not bad motors, just have some bad flaws and they are no where near an LS1.

in the c4 you can run the vortec dizzy in it instead of the fail prone water dizzy in the front of it

im not going to argue with you about it since your obviously biased to the lt1. but i work on them both for a living, and i dont own either. lsx>lt1

 

 

look at them both in stock form. the lt1 has a better head bolt arrangement right off the rip. and priority main oiling. which i would prefer for a durability stand point. and the lt1 is the late 350 sbc of them all. can be bored and stroked much cheaper. or if room allows, run the vortec dizzy in the back of the intake.

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Find another grand and buy this, already built and has enough power...

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69477

 

Or buy this and swap the motors and then resell the formula w/ a stock vette motor for $5k?

 

I dunno, but if I were to spend $6k it wouldn't be in that fashion you posted.

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Ask him how the ignition is on these motors. I had an LT1 car and for the $$ and my goals we found it was better to put a built carbed small block in it.

 

LT1's are not bad motors, just have some bad flaws and they are no where near an LS1.

 

If thats scaring you away from a motor then, a turbo would not be the route, You know how easy and cheap it is to upgrade ignition on most cars?

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If thats scaring you away from a motor then, a turbo would not be the route, You know how easy and cheap it is to upgrade ignition on most cars?

 

Yep it is $1500 to replace the opti spark on the LT1, and that is changing it over to an LS1 set up.

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hmm thats strange I just did my rb motor to a ls2 ign for 175$ its the same exact

 

I have no idea what an RB motor is but to convert an LT1 to use the LS1 set up you will need this and it just came out not to long ago.

 

http://www.eficonnection.com/24x/default.htm

 

GM High Performance just did a story on this for a Tuned Port car and it seems to have promise.

 

Or if you can find one of the setups like Clay already has on his car (delteq but I think they went out of business)

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I have no idea what an RB motor is but to convert an LT1 to use the LS1 set up you will need this and it just came out not to long ago.

 

http://www.eficonnection.com/24x/default.htm

 

GM High Performance just did a story on this for a Tuned Port car and it seems to have promise.

 

Or if you can find one of the setups like Clay already has on his car (delteq but I think they went out of business)

 

Includes two aluminum CNC coil brackets, 8 LS2 ignition coils (GM# 12573190), coil harnesses, and attaching hardware. Fits Small-Block Chevy and LT1/LT4 with center bolt valve covers

 

Yup this is what I did just bought used parts off a wrecked car, all the parts they sell are high as shit because they sell it as a kit and R&D went into putting together and name . All that same exact stuff can be had for less on craigslist, you can buy all the connectors and wire and any hardware store. Like I said I did everything for 175$ just because they just came out with it not long ago does not mean guys have not been doing it, because this is nothing new. With this coil set up you can get very creative with mounting and tucking all of it away.

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On that web site they sell a complete harness ready for the EFI ls1 comp for the LT1 for 850$ that is crazy, I did a search on the swap for the Lt1 cars and its a simple and deping some connectors and swapping 16 wires. All you need is a factory manual that you can get online free. That spending 1200 for a stock oem igntion style is for someone who has tons of money to throw away, and does not want to learn how to work on there own car.
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And seriously, if I hear another retarded Opti comment. Do you know how many different solutions there are for the Opti problem, which BTW isn't nearly the problem people make it out to be. Yes, they will fail eventually, mine died @ around 80k, non-vented unit. $190 later, all fixed, no issues after that. Can go the MSD route, coil pack route, or a pile of other alternatives IF YOU NEED TO - most folks can stick with a stocker and be perfectly fine.

 

Changed out my opti at around 80K as well and it had no problems whatsoever. Just decided to put in a new unit in when I did heads and cam on mine. As long as you don't get it wet you are fine.

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