Stoopid Hipster Posted February 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2010 no i do not who is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted February 28, 2010 Report Share Posted February 28, 2010 "LOL" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 1, 2010 Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 What were the conditions when the injector fuse blew? And how did you diagnose it was an injector fuse or more importantly what caused it? It has a separate fuse for each injector? Faulty/clogged injector sounds likely to me and most of the time you are firing on 3 out of 4.... Pull the plugs as was mentioned before and take pictures of each. Get a stethoscope and listen for clicking at each injector- pull plug wires one at a time and see if there is no change in idle without one. Have you checked for solid ground connections? Cold air intake or intake manifold as modification? Have you checked your vacuum? How many miles? First owner? On a random note: Do you know Andrew G? That's me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 the idle is not that big of a deal i wanna know why the 5k thing is doing that it like the rev limiter got lowered but what is strange is at like1/4ish throttle i can take it to 7k but the sec i go past 1/4 throttle it stops reving and does that rev limiter thing where ever it is in the revs at or above 5k injector fuse day.... it was really snow and cold parked on a big incline started car drove a hundred feet and the injector fuse blew i didnt know it until i took it to good year and the said i had no injector pulse.... I do have a cold air intake cant find any vacuum leaks new negative ground and a custom ground and all oem grounds too im the like 3rd owner and i swapped in an engine from someone that had 90k in it and he was original owner of that motor ill post pics of plugs tomorrow morn and what would cause it to run rich someone mentioned it earlier? maybe a suck injector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 1, 2010 Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 (edited) Bud if your "injector fuse" blew you would not be able to drive or start the car anywhere if such a thing even exists... no injector pulse means no fire in my book... Did you tow it to goodyear? With the 1/4 throttle deal it does sound like a fuel volume delivery issue- post pics of plugs with one looking wet/oily/black for non fire... if you pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator what happens? Is the "new" motor the same year? custom ground connection? Any smoke of any color out the tailpipe when it is hitting "rev-limiter" at 5K? Likely idle issue is related to 5K issue.... Does this engine have a distributor or is it distributorless? And when did all of these problems start? Edited March 1, 2010 by hpfiend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 idle has been around for a while do to a bad air idle controller but i just replaced that so I think that now it just idles poorly because I cant set the ignition timing and idle speed because the engine is running poorly the 5k happened with the fuse blowing and once the fuse blew it would not fire it was towed to goodyear i looked at it before it went there and found that it fas not firing and couldn't find the prob so they checked for pulse and with out pules no fire it is distributorless it has a cam angle u adjust and a coil pack its a 90 motor in a 92 but its completely the same no smoke does smell a lil rich and the ground i thought might be a prob so i ground the engine to the frame a nice big ground wire to know i have a good ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 could either break my maf if sprayed through the intake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 don't think anyone is still looking at this thread but i swapped a diff maf in to the car no diff. but no instead of 5k it now 4k and to go higher i need to be at like an 1/8th throttle instead of 1/4 but this only happened after driving to Dayton and back today when i got back in to town it started getting worse so I think its something going bad not something thats broke any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 Noone is going to help you until you follow their recommendations first. You can play the guessing game by replacing parts haphazardly but that gets expensive fast and rarely fixes the problem. Did you pull the pre-cat o2? Did you pull the plugs and take pictures? Did you get a long bolt or stethoscope and listen for ticking at each injector? Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on it, tape it to the windshield and see what happens when it breaks up? Pull a plug wire one a time at idle? Did you pull the vacuum line off the fpr? Did you set the idle the proper way with a service manual or at least how it is supposed to be done on a miata? Do you really want to fix this problem or just complain about it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 I replaced water temp sensor cause engine light came on and today i got rid of the cat and replaced the o2 sensor neither did anything really i listened to the injectors they are all clicking fine and i pulled plugs and it had probs so im on all cylinders I had a air fuel gauge sitting around put it in and its only a narrow band reader but according to it when the car starts cutting out i start running rich so im not fuel cutting im loosing spark but they have new plugs wires and coilpack and battery..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 if its going rich, it dont have to be spark. you could have a valve sealing issue causing all this shit...and another reason why it will come and go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 doesnt come and go it get worse and it gets a lil better but always the weird 5k sometimes 4k thing how do i check spring problems and how would that just go bad? could it be fuel pressure regulator? just spraying too much at top end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mensan Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Sounds a lot like you gapped the plugs too wide why don't you POST A FUCKING PICTURE LIKE I HAVE BEEN ASKING SINCE THE START OF THIS THREAD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 trying to find a camera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Are you using one of those digital cyberdyne A/F gauges? What happens when you pull the vacuum line off the regulator? Get an inductive timing light and put it on each spark plug wire to check for spark unless the wires are very poorly separated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 do a compression and a leakdown test. im not talking about springs, im talking about the valve seats. it may need a valve job. if you have one or two valves not sealing correctly, if can cause it to run like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 im using a just cheap ass sunpro gauge with like nine lights that is not super accurate but gives me a lil idea ill pull the vacumm line and see what happens if i put my timing light on it they are pretty chopy cause my idle sucks but if i have some one hold the throttle at like a grand its smooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 vacuum* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 throw a vacuum gauge on it and see what it does when its idling shitty..see if its jumping around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 rob i have no vacuum gauge or compression gauge or leakdown method either unless anyone has some equipment I can use... checked my spark plug gap and they are spot on uploading pics when i get home called flying miata the said there is a good chance it could be my ignitor shitting out? thought it could be a possablity since there is a hole in the hood above it so my spark is just weak... the said fpr would just dump fuel at idle but once i was in the rpms it wouldnt matter and according to the one gauge i do have it is running lean at idle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 I have found in my garage I do have a real nice boost gauge that shows vacuum should i hook that up and take a look? and pulling the vacuum line off the fpr didnt really do anything couldnt tell I have such a bad idle so it may have done something real small but i didnt notice anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz83/sts44/sparknumber1.jpg plug number 1 http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz83/sts44/sparkplugnumber2.jpg number 2 wont fucking load!!! gonna take another pic but it looks like the rest number 3 http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz83/sts44/sparkplugnumber4.jpg number 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 11, 2010 Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 (edited) Ok- It sounds sort of like the timing advance mechanism is off- is that what the cam angle sensor that needs adjusted does? Okay- really difficult to make out those plug pictures- can you adjust your shutter speed faster? What plugs are those anyhow? Are they factory heat range? Where did you get them? The "throttle damping valve" you mention may cause the 30-40 second delay in down-revving.. where is it located? How does it work? Those digital A/F gauges that tie into the 02 sensor wire are very unreliable... does it have an exhaust probe at all? A boost gauge should work as a vacuum gauge as long as there is enough room to show about 30 inches of vacuum on the other side of zero... Hook this up and see what the idle vacuum looks like and then with a stabilized idle... my mustang that had an intake manifold leak that showed 12-13 inches when it should have been 19 or so with the cam I had... but you will have to ask miata people what it should be... I think a 30.00 fuel pressure gauge and some line/fittings so you can tape to the windshield would be money well spent.. a hydraulics store should have more than you need for cheap. Can you stabilize the idle while under the hood by manually twisting the throttle body pivot while you look at the timing/spark on each cylinder? Speaking of WHICH- Have you checked your linkage at the throttle body to see if it isn't sticking or hanging up when you push the throttle beyond 1/4? If it is slow to respond to pedal input due to grime this may also explain the hanging idle- not sure why you replaced the TPS? Any computer code? Is there any fresh rtv on the intake manifold mating surfaces? When the engine is running, spray some carb cleaner near vacuum lines and intake manifold mating surfaces block to lower, lower to upper, tb to upper etc... and listen for a change in idle... I would read this and set the cam angle sensor properly... http://www.miata.net/garage/ignition.html Found this online also: When the AirFlowMeter signal is erratic, it can really play hell with an Emanage because the erratic signal must be constantly read and interpolated, using up processor time. If the brushes are loose against the contact strip, the voltage can drop intermittantly to -0- causing a flood of fuel with or without Emanage being used. The black pad on top of the AFM can be removed by carving out the sealant around it and lifting it out. It is better to do this on a table with good lighting than in the car, but if readily accessable in the car, may be done there. You also need access to the flapper door to move it back and forth. Inside, there is a wiper brush that moves along a contact strip as the flapper door is moved. These contacts can be cleaned with alcohol. Then, there is a hex head screw holding the wiper assembly on the shaft that turns with the flapper door. This screw can be loosened and the whole assembly pushed down the shaft so that the brushes push harder against the contact strip. Tighten the screw, replace the black pad and fill in to re-seal it with either hot glue or rubber cement. Finally: I would check the wiring to your fuel pump to see if it hasn't been hacked- apparently a lot of guys mess with it with some black box deal and tie into the air bag fuse and solder pins together to trick it into fueling more- why did you have to put another engine in it? was the chassis turbocharged before and the previous owner blew the engine? Buy a factory service manual DVD should be cheap online- check the fuel volume from their test procedure... Edited March 11, 2010 by hpfiend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 yea i twist the cam angle sensor from one side to the other and advance or retard the ignition timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 I have something called a throttle damping valve in my intake manifold could that be bad? not sure what it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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