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How to break in a new turbo?


rb26deet32

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I'm replacing my turbo this weekend and I was just wondering if there is any specific way to break in a new turbo.

 

I've always heard that you should disable the fuel/ignition and just turn the motor over for about 10-15 seconds 3-5 times so you get some good oil circulation. Then you turn the car on and let it idle for about 15-20 minutes. Then you baby if for 100-200 miles.

 

That's what I've done before and it has always worked. But the thing is I've always had cheap as turbo's. And my new turbo is worth about as much as my car.

 

If anyone has something to add let me know. The turbo should be getting here tomorrow or the Saturday. Thanks.

 

Brent

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I was just talking to a buddy and he said something about changing oil to non synthetic motor oil for the first 200 miles. I don't see why I would want to do that at all. It seems like that would just be stupid to put in oil for break in that I'm not going to be running for the life of the turbo. Though, I would do that if I were breaking in a new motor because of all the metal shavings that new motor create. But I wouldn't think to do that with a new turbo. He might have misheard something and got the two mixed up. Thanks.

 

Brent

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You need to prime the turbo first and foremost. You do this by putting the impact on the crank bolt and make the oil pump spin until the turbo is fed. Then just run the car normally. I would cycle the car on and off for a 15 minute session. In between, just check you have no leaks and you are getting adequate flow to the turbo. After that, drive it like you stole it.
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You need to prime the turbo first and foremost. You do this by putting the impact on the crank bolt and make the oil pump spin until the turbo is fed. Then just run the car normally. I would cycle the car on and off for a 15 minute session. In between, just check you have no leaks and you are getting adequate flow to the turbo. After that, drive it like you stole it.

 

 

Wouldn't turning the car over with the ignition and fuel pump fuse removed do the same thing? Like if I were doing a compression test. That's what I planned on doing. If you've ever heard something bad about that let me know. Because I really don't want to waste $2k for doing something to save a little time. Thanks.

 

Brent

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Wouldn't turning the car over with the ignition and fuel pump fuse removed do the same thing? Like if I were doing a compression test. That's what I planned on doing. If you've ever heard something bad about that let me know. Because I really don't want to waste $2k for doing something to save a little time. Thanks.

 

Brent

 

what you were suggesting would do the exact same thing as mr badass was suggesting.

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Sorry. I thought i read running it with the ignition in. My bad. Yes, that would work the same way. I usually do it that way so i can see when the return tube starts to drip so i can stop impacting it. Its just easier that way for me. Good luck!
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Im not disagreeing with you. But, i like impacting because the crank is only a foot away and i can see the oil line from the turbo. I unhook it and when it starts to flow, im done. But what he said is also good too. Its just preference.
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Im not disagreeing with you. But, i like impacting because the crank is only a foot away and i can see the oil line from the turbo. I unhook it and when it starts to flow, im done. But what he said is also good too. Its just preference.

 

 

That makes sense. Luckily I'll have a few people standing/watching as I finally get my car running so I'll just have one of them yell when they see some oil squirt out :D

 

Reminds me of how I bleed my brakes.

 

-Hook up clear plastic line to bleeder valve

-pump brakes like a mofo

-when I hear what sounds like someone taking a piss on my fender well run and shut bleeder valve:cool:

 

It works 60% of the time, every time...

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Yes, ALWAYS prime the turbo with oil. But....

 

 

Forgive me if I am off base but isn't it about heat cycling, not just driving it easy for 100, 200, etc. miles? I was under the impression that you want it to heat up fully, cool fully, heat up, and cool a reasonable number of times to allow for the expansion and contraction of the metal and seating of parts and seals before you spin the shaft over 9000+ (arbitrary #) times.

 

Discuss?

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