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Salvage Title.


dover

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Now I am 100% usually a stickler about always buying a clean title car, but there are plenty of deals out there of salvage/theft recovery titles. Now if you are looking to purchase a car and it has a salvage title for say an accident. The car has before and after pictures and receipts for all the work and showing there is no frame damage is that car worth buying? And mind you the work was done by a dealership. Who here has purchased a salvage title car, was it what you were expecting? I know having that title pretty much destroys resale on the car. Is there ever a way to get back to a normal title or is that car fucked for life? I am trying to understand this I don't want to buy a nightmare. The said car is bone stock, under 20k miles, and appears to be very well taken care of.
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I've never personally bought a salvage / rebuilt car, but know people who have. If the car has a rebuilt salvage title, say from a wreck where it was fixed. If the car was inspected thoroughly by a bmv, it should be good I'd think.

 

It kills the value of the car, just because it says "salvage", but if its all been done by the dealer, I wouldn't have a problem buying it for the right price.

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rebuilt salvage on the title means it has been inspected and is good to go

 

salvage on the title means it still needs to be inspected before you can get tags. the inspection process can be a pain in the ass and you must have original reciepts and vins for all parts you replaced.

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It's not a big deal and I could talk to you about this for hours. If you want PM me for my number and I will give you the low down on it.

 

Rebuilt vehicles have to pass rigorous inspection to get back on the road, so they are usually VERY safe if not safer than other cars out there.

 

Yeah, you will lose some resale value, but from my experience (which is vast) you only lose 20% off book. People will argue with me all day long, but I have numbers to prove it and in the trade game it usually means nothing. It's a good way to get into a car you might not be able to afford otherwise.

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Well if this gentlemen calls me I'll give you a ring to understand it better. I figure if it was rebuilt and inspected by a dealership its good to go. In the add it says front damage, had the fender, wheel assembly, wheel, tire, etc was all replaced.
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what kind of car? the cars you have been looking at are not cheap and it would take a HARD hit to total it. Thats def something to keep in mind.

 

This was my thought, if it wasn't worth a high price to begin with, it wouldn't take much to total it, and hence shouldn't be all that bad. As for the opposite, well I wouldn't want something that had taken a lot of damage.

 

For example, my Camaro took a decent hit in 04 or 05 and was fixed, the body shop did a good job and you really can't tell with the exception of a couple minor imperfections. Had this happend this year the car would have been totalled since its value has dropped, but I would still have had it fixed only to be stuck with a salvage title. To be honest its not even on my carfax so take that info and think about it. Used cars are only as good as the buyer's inspection, and if you're unsure have a third party look at it.

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Well, this is partially true about the price. But I once had an S2k with LOW MILES. (Yes, I understand it's no Viper, it's just my personal comparison.)

 

What I do know is this:

 

It was purchased in early 01 and it was an 01 model. It was totaled less than 6 months after it was purchased. The damage was ONLY to the LF headlight, wheel and headlight. Because of the cost of these things at that time it was totaled, purchased by someone and taken out of state. The title was "washed" and when I got it years later it was a clean title. Only a car fax revealed otherwise. I did not believe it because I had been under the car and it was clean and nothing was even close to looking like it wasn't factory. I took it to a dealership (Roush Honda) and they said it was fine and they doubted it was totaled. When we got to talking about what was replaced and the replacement costs it quickly added up.

 

My suggestions is to have him take you on a high speed ride to determine how it tracks down the road. If it's straight and true, then it's good to go.

 

Also, some insurance companies will total a car depending on the insured's contract with them, etc. There are a lot of variables, but I am not scared of a totaled car personally unless I either want to sell it for cash or I find the repairs to be unfit.

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That's the smartest route. There is so much false and negative information out there that it's a sea of shit to try and get the right info. If the car tracks straight at high speeds it's been fixed correctly.

 

I know you really want a Viper and that might be a good way to get into one, and I'd recommend it if you plan to hold onto it for a long while. That is of course, if it checks out. Obviously check the body lines and don't be afraid to ask for specific shots of the car at different angles, etc so you know what to expect before driving or traveling to see it. Just use common sense and you should be alright.

 

A lot of people say that an S2K can't take a hit of any kind and it will screw up the "X-frame", etc... I don't know for sure but I bet those same people would say that about a Viper. They're very different vehicles, but they're both relatively light-weight, nimble cars.

 

Throw a roll cage in it for added rigidity and call it a day!

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My suggestions is to have him take you on a high speed ride to determine how it tracks down the road. If it's straight and true, then it's good to go.

 

 

I would also check the tire wear, even if it does drive straight down the road at high speeds. It could barely meet alignment specs after an accident and be ruining tires and thats an indication that the cars frame may be damaged.

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You would be amazed at what totals a car.

 

I repaired a ladies Pontiac Aztek.

 

I replaced,

Frt. Cover

Header Panel

Drv Headlamp

Drv Fender

Drv Susp Assy

Blended The Hood and Door

 

I was directed by the insurance company to buy a Reconditioned Cover for the vehicle. Since the quote the cover had been sold and no more where avail. We had to order an OEM cover for it. The cost of the OEM cover (700) totaled the vehicle. But because it was at the very end of the repair process, the vehicle stayed clean. If I would have ordered the OEM cover earlier, and only teardown would have been done, the vehicle would have been totaled and I would be payed for tear down time.

 

This is one main reason I turn my supplements in after the car has already left my shop. It helps the customer in the end, and thats my goal.

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I had a reconstructed titled S4 before the one I have now. It was a theft recovery and it was the worst decision of my life. Found out it had also been wrecked as well as stolen. The car was worth next to nothing with only 67k miles. Just my 2 cents.

 

That's because it was a B5 S4! :p Hardest car I've ever tried to sell.

 

 

I would also check the tire wear, even if it does drive straight down the road at high speeds. It could barely meet alignment specs after an accident and be ruining tires and thats an indication that the cars frame may be damaged.

 

This is also very good advice that I forgot about.

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