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spun bearing


Snowflake

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Well just in time for great weather and the track opening I fucked my Trans Am up. The bottom line is I now have to pull the motor and rebuild or set it on fire. I wanna make this a simple as possible but I also only want to do it once and make sure its right the first time.

 

Ive never done anything other than bolt-ons on any car so this to me is going to be a challenge. From what I understand I need a new/used short block and everything I have will bolt right up. I will end up starting a thread in tech once I start pulling the motor but for now I just want to get some ideas on what I need to be doing.

 

Im looking for a short block right now and Im wondering what I should go with LS1/LS6, LQ9, LQ4. What should be the easiest to get and be the best as far as handling power? My car is a 98 A4 and I put down 358rwhp with full exhaust, lid, 243 heads, cam from 01 Z06, and tune. I have since added a BBK intake and 85mm tb but dont know what gains I got from it. Im hoping closer to 370.

 

Id like to be at least 400rwhp when Im done. If I added my same mods to an LQ9or LQ4 would I see any difference in power?

 

If I do the work myself is it possible to keep all this under $2000?

 

Should I set it on fire?

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Why can't you rebuild the one you have in the car? I understand spun bearing, if its just that you should be able to rebuild yours.

 

Im open to all options. I did a lot of reading on LS1 tech today and it just seemed like everyone that had a spun bearing bought a new block or were looking for one.

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I've not dealt with the LS series motors, just your older SBC's. Ive seen motors with spun bearings rebuilt before, it depended on the damage caused. I would take the motor out see what damage is done, at the worst you need another block.

 

Did some quick reading and found that these motors are able to be rebuilt, it really depends on how long you ran it after you lost oil pressure and whether you sent part flying in the crankcase. If you turned it off when you lost oil pressure you should be able to get away with a crank, bearings, rings, having it magnafluxed, and line bore at a good machine shop. It all really depends on the condition of the block and the caps as they tend to crack in the saddle when overheated.

 

Here's a site I found some information on: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/0708ch_block_repair_basics/index.html

Edited by Oneslow7
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Thanks for the info.

 

I know I had to have lost oil pressure at some point but by time I noticed the knocking over the fucking loud exhaust my oil pressure was fine and still is. I had read about loosing oil pressure and told a guy that my oil pressure looks fine and he told me "its not bad yet". I dont know?

 

I hope its not that bad because I drove it home about 10 miles once I started hearing the knock.

 

So I need to find out how much to have it rebuilt vs. a used low mileage shortblock.

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With my LT1 I never completely lost oil pressure, but I ended up with spun bearings (rod and main). I came to the conclusion that the machine work was going to be almost as much as a rebuilt short block. I chose Golen Engine Service for my short block, they do LS motors as well.

 

http://www.golenengineservice.com/engines/ls-engines/ls-short-blocks/

 

If you can swing some extra cash for your rebuild you could pick up a lot. They have an LSx 454 with all forged internals for $7000. I know that is a lot more than you are talking about, but they have many combinations.

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Before you do anything, have some one start the car while you watch the crank pulley. The last time my went out, i had crank walk and ended up just really needing a thrust bearing. It was knocking, but i still had oil preasure. If you want some help just let me know
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Would not waste money on an ls1 block. for 500 or so you could pick up a complete lq4 local(ohio) sell the heads and harness and what not to break even on purchase. Then spend 2k on gaskets and add ons. or for the 2k you could send the junkyard motor to machine shop and have it all assembled with some new parts and put it in yourself.
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$2000 isn't going to get much, that limits you to a used short block out of a truck IMHO. By the time you buy it and have all the smaller expenses like gaskets, lifters, and such it adds up quick. LS1s are pretty desirable so a good used one might be possible, but might take time to track down. If it were me I'd grab up a LQ4 because they are cheaper and easier to find then a LQ9 and when you put your 243 heads on it will bump the compresion. So long as it has the knock sensors in the valley cover all your stuff should be direct bolt on.
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If you want to keep this as cheap as possible and make sure all is good, i can give you my machine shop guys number. He hot tanked, bored the block, put new cam bearings in and had to go over a bunch of other stuff including test fitting everything for me for around 500 bucks.
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before we talk about rebuilding the motor I'd look for basic stuff like a cracked flexplate or a bad harmonic balancer they can both make a noise that sounds like a rod

 

This^^^^^^^^^^

I has seen cracked flex plates that sounded like a rod was going to come through the oilpan.

you can also put an indicator on the balancer and move the crank back and forth to check the thrust bearing. Also check for broken valve springs. A dropped valve hitting the piston can make a racket. Also cut the oil filter and see what is inside.

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before we talk about rebuilding the motor I'd look for basic stuff like a cracked flexplate or a bad harmonic balancer they can both make a noise that sounds like a rod

 

Yeah I forgot all about this, the flexplate was the first thing I broke on my Camaro, and it did sound just like a rod was broken.

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If you want to keep this as cheap as possible and make sure all is good, i can give you my machine shop guys number. He hot tanked, bored the block, put new cam bearings in and had to go over a bunch of other stuff including test fitting everything for me for around 500 bucks.

 

Im confident we will be seeing each other during this process.

 

before we talk about rebuilding the motor I'd look for basic stuff like a cracked flexplate or a bad harmonic balancer they can both make a noise that sounds like a rod

 

This is the stuff I need to hear. Thanks and I will check these things.

 

Guarantee for 2k you could build a 6.0 for his car. Hell have the heads checked, buy gaskets and new valvetrain with a used or rebuilt truck block and let it eat

 

As bad as it is, Im kinda getting excited about the different possibilities.

 

Go drinking with Ray, get him plastered, swap motors without him knowing and never mention anything to him.

 

Im doubting Ray is a cheap date. :)

 

I dont know about that but i bet he could find enough shit laying around my shop to build a motor.

 

Probably more than 1. :cool:

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This^^^^^^^^^^

I has seen cracked flex plates that sounded like a rod was going to come through the oilpan.

you can also put an indicator on the balancer and move the crank back and forth to check the thrust bearing. Also check for broken valve springs. A dropped valve hitting the piston can make a racket. Also cut the oil filter and see what is inside.

 

Will do.

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