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Which of these wheels should I go with on my 1990 Miata


Rustlestiltskin

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I know a guy with the Panasports on his 95. He said they are a little heavier than he would like but loves the look.

 

Personally not my favorite

 

Must not have been the track-lite Panasports...

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+1 on the panasports. Although...gotta admit this...your car is delightfully stock as it sits. Beauty of a Miata is that it is soooo much cheap fun left as it was right off the showroom floor. If it was one of the more common colors I'd agree with mods. But if I had that one I'd leave it stock looking at least.
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barbie jeep

 

YUH I WISH :masturboy:

 

Mini.

 

There we go. Best story is when my dad got pulled over once for doing 80 something on the highway. No ticket, cop just couldn't believe he could go that fast on wheels that small. Most lawn mowers have larger wheels now.

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Here's my car

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj288/Dubs740/MiataPics039.jpg

 

Clean looking car!

 

Will be getting coilovers soon as well as harddog rollbar.

 

I just got done installing one (M2 w/double diag. into a 1999). Spend some money on general 'maintenance' items too. Although I'd say a bar is second on that list (and before rims and coil-overs). Put MTL in the gear box and shifter turret. This thing shifted just fine before, but ones it's warmed up it shifts like butter now. The clutch fluid was black, glad we replaced that. Both shifter boots were destroyed.

 

A few thing I learned during the process of installing the cage.

 

Just take the seats out, it's 4 bolts/seat and I have no idea why they don't tell you to take them out in their instructions. I can't imagine installing this thing with the seats in. In my pic the center console is removed, that's not for the cage install. We also installed new shifter boots. Check yours if you haven't already.

 

Take out every electrical wire you can on the drivers side. If you take enough crap out those wires will move out of the way and this makes it much easier to slide the cage in.

 

Get someone else to help you put the cage in the car. You could do it with 1 person, but I wouldn't want to.

 

I was getting help form someone who had installed a few cages before, so at some point I stopped following their instructions. They say to bolt the cage in to 2 pre-existing captive nuts (top seat belt bolts), then drill the rest of the (new) bolt holes. Do this. We bolted the cage in, marked the holes, removed the cage, punched and drilled the holes, put the cage back in and about half of the bolt holes were off enough to need re-drilled.

 

The only exception to that is the back bars. Those are hard to get to from the top with a drill. The instructions say to drill one hole from the top, then bolt the bottom plate in and drill the rest of the holes using that as a template. I'm not sure if you can drill that 1 hole with the cage in or not. The drill was at an angle so I think the metal plate might interfere with drilling that hole. It also says to drill that first hole from the trunk. We also had everything in the trunk out installing shocks & springs, and I'm not sure you could get to that 1st hole from the trunk access? We did that 1st hole from the cabin access. You have to remove all of that anyways. Now that I think about it if you can find a stubby drill bit somewhere this would help with this 1st hole a lot.

 

You have to cut some plastics for where the main hoop goes to the body. If you care about these being perfect cut less than what you think needs to be cut, try to put in and cut more if needed.

 

Get some good silicone to seal up the new holes in the body you've made for a moisture seal. I put it 'into' the bolts/holes from the bottom before I installed everything (after I test fit everything), and also made a 'gasket' by putting a circle of it on the body around the bolts and around the holes on the back plates. I may still add some under-body sealant to these plates, but I didn't have any sitting around.

 

Get the fitted cushion for the top bar, it's only $45. This thing comes closer to your head than you would think if you haven't seen one so I would put some padding there. It's a really nice piece, it looks 100% better than the typical padding.

 

If you want to reinstall the cover for the top you have to make clearance for the back bars. You have to remove some stitching and somehow re-secure it so it doesn't keep unraveling. I used a bunch of staples. It was tight before and didn't flop around in the wind, but is very floppy now. :no: Again, remove less stitching than you think is needed, test fit and remove more if needed. This might make it fit a little tighter.

 

http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/9776/img0289ry.jpg

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