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Cordell's Miata street/autox project


Cordell

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http://www.miata.net/garage/

http://forum.miata.net/vb/

 

We did some mid-grade NAPA rotors. I was suggested the NAPA rotors by someone who basically races one of these. Actually what he does with the car is probably much harder on the car than what most race cars see.

 

For the pads we went with Potterfield R4S's

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4539&parentid=0&stocknumber=14-39100%20%201990-93

I can't speak too deeply into the R4S's, but they seem like a good option for the street. They've worked fine so far but we haven't beat on the car too much yet. I was going to do some mid-grade NAPA pads too, but I think these weren't much more expensive. I think the rotor price difference was much bigger. Also got a bottle of AET Super Blue, or whatever fluid you like, and bleed the brakes and clutch.

 

I ordered parts from these places so far with good success

http://www.flyinmiata.com/

http://www.good-win-racing.com/

 

Do ATE fluid in the diff and tranny. The tranny shifts like butter after it's warmed up now. http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept=27

 

You'll likely need to do the shifter boots.

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4531&parentid=0&stocknumber=08-46000

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4531&parentid=0&stocknumber=08-49000

 

The car was a non-LSD stock and we got a used stock LSD (newer type). It was expensive, but worth it. You can do that down the road.

Get a roll cage at some point too.

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Well got in into the shop today for a really good inspection, left rear spring is broken at the top, looks to have original shocks, calipers might just be 20 years old too and not functioning very well, lots of rusty bolts and things to work on. The rust is mostly cosmetic, and the underside looks really good for a 20 year old car. It really needs stiffened up, cowl shake is very prevelant over bumps, and the car just feels like its flexing to me.

 

So for a clutch I'm thinking a stock replacement, I'm not going for a powerfull car and this should work fine.

 

Brakes I would like to upgrade since I really want to do everything, but since I'm on a budget with this thing I think it'll get all stock parts except for pads and stainless lines. I'm going to be replacing the lines to the back as they are pretty rusty before I go autocrossing with it.

 

Suspension will be more of a spring project most likely, but right now I'm thinking of a coilover set-up, some sway bars, and replacing every bushing in the car as these are all 20 years old. This looks to be a big project seeing as how everything is heavily rusted over and if I want to adjust the aligment without breaking anything all this will need replaced.

 

Then comes getting the chassis stiffened up, there are lots of products out there for this type stuff. I'm not sure which will help out the most so I'm open to suggestions. I'm liking the Boss Frog line of parts and for a car mostly set up for autocross collecting all of their stuff seems like a logical step.

 

If I can break these projects down into pretty small steps so I can do them at work after hours and on saturdays it would be best. Obviously all my tools are at work with air, electric, and a lift. So I'm going to be looking for some stock control arms to put new bushings in so I can just cut all this old crap out and throw it away bolt in the new stuff and go.

 

Where can I get replacement sheet metal for these cars? Specifically quarters and rockers?

 

What are good sway bars for stiff coilovers?

 

Any local places with soem NA Miata used inventory?

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If you are really interested in auto crossing it you will want to go to a few events and pick the brains of those who auto cross these. If you just go throwing parts at it you will end up in some unlimited class by accident racing tube chassis cars. If you don't really care about competing and just want to go out, have fun and learn the car, that's fine, put whatever you want on it.
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If you are really interested in auto crossing it you will want to go to a few events and pick the brains of those who auto cross these. If you just go throwing parts at it you will end up in some unlimited class by accident racing tube chassis cars. If you don't really care about competing and just want to go out, have fun and learn the car, that's fine, put whatever you want on it.

 

Well just having fun and seeing how well I can make it handle is what I'm interested in. Going to SCCA events and putting effort into being competetive doesn't sound like much fun to me. I raced karts as a kid and when we couldn't go without winning it stopped being fun, I don't even want to start down that road.

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Where can I get replacement sheet metal for these cars? Specifically quarters and rockers?

 

Any local places with soem NA Miata used inventory?

 

http://www.FlyinMiata.com has a used parts section (they call it salvage). That's where we got our used (stock) LSD. I don't see any quarters or rockers on there for you car right now, but it's worth looking for whatever else you are looking for. Sorry, I'm not sure if there are any local places.

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http://www.FlyinMiata.com has a used parts section (they call it salvage). That's where we got our used (stock) LSD. I don't see any quarters or rockers on there for you car right now, but it's worth looking for whatever else you are looking for. Sorry, I'm not sure if there are any local places.

 

Cool I appreciate it.

 

BTW you didn't go to Eastland Career Center for Electrical Tech did you? The Jesse in my class was into RX7s, just curious.

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Oh, on the suspension, I don't think you can go wrong with the spec miata suspension. But it's $$$.

 

We just went with the least aggressive aftermarket suspension we could get since our purpose wasn't to stiffen the car up, but to put new parts on since the car is 12 years old.

 

I have also driven a spec miata and the suspension was setup VERY well.

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Scott, You'll have so much fun with these cars! I drove my brother's a handful of times and I have to say, I kind of miss it, myself.

 

Get in touch with my brother Pakie(Biggu), he'll give you all the ins-n-outs you'll ever need to know about these things.

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Scott, You'll have so much fun with these cars! I drove my brother's a handful of times and I have to say, I kind of miss it, myself.

 

Get in touch with my brother Pakie(Biggu), he'll give you all the ins-n-outs you'll ever need to know about these things.

 

I thought I remembered him talking about having had one before, I'll be sure to bug when I see him.

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Late to this thread, Here's what I'd do personally.

 

Build the car suspension wise out just like a spec miata. IIRC the whole suspension setup can be had for not TOO much money, no, it's not totally cheap either but here's my thoughts on this.

 

You used to race carts correct? Say you really get back into going left and right and auto-x leaves something to be desired. You've already got the suspension under the car to make it legal in the event you eventually want to work up to racing with the thing. Also all the guess work is already taken out of setting up the car, that setup has evolved slightly over the years but it's a proven formula to make the cars work and do it with a simple recipe.

 

With the car still in full street trim / weight the suspension will be a little stiff but not like when the car's gutted.

 

That's the route I'd go with it.

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There's been some really good advice in here so far! Another couple places to check out that I didn't see listed are http://www.good-win-racing.com/, http://www.bellengineering.net/ and http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/

 

This is a neat tool to help once you've decided what springs/shocks you want. http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FRC_1_6NA/FCM_MSDS_1_6NA.htm

 

Before upgrading, I would try to get some rides and pick people's brains about what is in their car and see what you like and don't like how it feels. At the BMC autocrosses, I've never asked for a ride and gotten turned down. I drive the turboed British Racing Green Miata at BMC, feel free to jump in for a ride and I'll help how I can. By the way, great driving the other weekend at Ackerman. 4th fastest of the day for a first event is pretty impressive.

 

NAPA rotors are all the car needs and are super cheap. There's no need for anything more. I've also raced on NAPA pads and they've been great for the price. Here's a quick hint, go with a pad with more bite in the rear. The car is set up with too much front brake bias from the factory and this offsets that.

 

The OE clutch is good until about 150whp, so there's no reason to go with anything different until then.

 

The first two upgrades after getting the car race worthy I would do would be a Torsen then tires, then get some seat time with that and finally upgrade the suspension and stiffen the chassis. Drive it like that and if it still isn't fun enough for you, start looking for a turbo.

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If you're set on Coils/sways, choose your coil overs first. My buddy went through several different setups on his NB Miata until he came to final decision. With stock springs/shocks, he loved the upgraded sways, but once he went to his current Tein basic coils, he no longer uses a rear bar at all due to the way the coils changed the balance of the car.
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There's been some really good advice in here so far! Another couple places to check out that I didn't see listed are http://www.good-win-racing.com/, http://www.bellengineering.net/ and http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/

 

This is a neat tool to help once you've decided what springs/shocks you want. http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FRC_1_6NA/FCM_MSDS_1_6NA.htm

 

Before upgrading, I would try to get some rides and pick people's brains about what is in their car and see what you like and don't like how it feels. At the BMC autocrosses, I've never asked for a ride and gotten turned down. I drive the turboed British Racing Green Miata at BMC, feel free to jump in for a ride and I'll help how I can. By the way, great driving the other weekend at Ackerman. 4th fastest of the day for a first event is pretty impressive.

 

NAPA rotors are all the car needs and are super cheap. There's no need for anything more. I've also raced on NAPA pads and they've been great for the price. Here's a quick hint, go with a pad with more bite in the rear. The car is set up with too much front brake bias from the factory and this offsets that.

 

The OE clutch is good until about 150whp, so there's no reason to go with anything different until then.

 

The first two upgrades after getting the car race worthy I would do would be a Torsen then tires, then get some seat time with that and finally upgrade the suspension and stiffen the chassis. Drive it like that and if it still isn't fun enough for you, start looking for a turbo.

 

 

Thanks for the good info and compliment. I wouldn't have thought about the brake bias that way. I really wanted to just get it race worthy, but the left rear spring is broken at the top so I'll have to do something with it. The way the sits now nothing has ever been messed with in the suspension and I can just see it snowballing.

 

What do you think would be the most effective chassis stiffening mod? This thing has a lot of cowl shake, and just feels like it needs frame ties like the Camaro did.

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