wagner Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 Thought maybe we could start a thread to help people take better action shots of racing or other action car shots. What types of settings should be addressed for (cannon, nikon, ect)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTQ B4U Posted August 23, 2011 Report Share Posted August 23, 2011 (edited) Will post back in more complete fashion tonight including examples. However, initially: Shutter Priority (Tv Mode on Canon) Get low Shoot Wide open to perhaps 1 stop down from max (Good glass makes a difference) f/2.8-f/3.2 range You can go higher if you have a good zoom. Zoom (70-200mm) min. Bigger is better. Panning shots shutter of 1/160th to 1/200th. Off the line/burnout shots upwards of 1/640th.A Polarizer filter. Should have one in your bag at all times anyway. Read up on how to compensate for exposure when using one.Bring a monopod. Especially if shooting with a large lense. Makes panning easier an holding a camera all day easier too. Key is to Isolate vehicle. You want a nice bokeh, not a pics with hillbillies visibile in the background. Shooting wide and zooming accomplishes this. There are times you want great DOF so no absolutes. Only hot chicks and cool drivers are acceptable people in these shots. You don't want stop action photos, you want to convey motion and wheel spin.Of course proper exposure and framing are key. Night races will require multiple strobes to be considered money shots.Safety wise, it's always good to have a spotter too. I've been to events where there have been wrecks or debris tossed and you don't want to be focused through a lens when a car hits you or a tire bounces off your head.Capture more than just cars. Remember people pay to see eyes too. That holds true at all venues. More later..... Edited August 23, 2011 by TTQ B4U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagner Posted August 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Will post back in more complete fashion tonight including examples. However, initially: Shutter Priority (Tv Mode on Canon) Get low Shoot Wide open to perhaps 1 stop down from max (Good glass makes a difference) f/2.8-f/3.2 range You can go higher if you have a good zoom. Zoom (70-200mm) min. Bigger is better. Panning shots shutter of 1/160th to 1/200th. Off the line/burnout shots upwards of 1/640th.A Polarizer filter. Should have one in your bag at all times anyway. Read up on how to compensate for exposure when using one.Bring a monopod. Especially if shooting with a large lense. Makes panning easier an holding a camera all day easier too. Key is to Isolate vehicle. You want a nice bokeh, not a pics with hillbillies visibile in the background. Shooting wide and zooming accomplishes this. There are times you want great DOF so no absolutes. Only hot chicks and cool drivers are acceptable people in these shots. You don't want stop action photos, you want to convey motion and wheel spin.Of course proper exposure and framing are key. Night races will require multiple strobes to be considered money shots.Safety wise, it's always good to have a spotter too. I've been to events where there have been wrecks or debris tossed and you don't want to be focused through a lens when a car hits you or a tire bounces off your head.Capture more than just cars. Remember people pay to see eyes too. That holds true at all venues. More later..... NEED MOAR INPUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KennyFKINPowerz Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Will post back in more complete fashion tonight including examples. However, initially: Shutter Priority (Tv Mode on Canon) Get low Shoot Wide open to perhaps 1 stop down from max (Good glass makes a difference) f/2.8-f/3.2 range You can go higher if you have a good zoom. Zoom (70-200mm) min. Bigger is better. Panning shots shutter of 1/160th to 1/200th. Off the line/burnout shots upwards of 1/640th.A Polarizer filter. Should have one in your bag at all times anyway. Read up on how to compensate for exposure when using one.Bring a monopod. Especially if shooting with a large lense. Makes panning easier an holding a camera all day easier too. Key is to Isolate vehicle. You want a nice bokeh, not a pics with hillbillies visibile in the background. Shooting wide and zooming accomplishes this. There are times you want great DOF so no absolutes. Only hot chicks and cool drivers are acceptable people in these shots. You don't want stop action photos, you want to convey motion and wheel spin.Of course proper exposure and framing are key. Night races will require multiple strobes to be considered money shots.Safety wise, it's always good to have a spotter too. I've been to events where there have been wrecks or debris tossed and you don't want to be focused through a lens when a car hits you or a tire bounces off your head.Capture more than just cars. Remember people pay to see eyes too. That holds true at all venues. More later..... +1 Also knowing what your taking a shot of helps out a lot as well. When I first started taking pictures of Drag cars, it helped a lot knowing how they react on the starting line and what to expect. After lots and lots of practice and reading and trial and error then the Photography skills stated taking over making good shots in to great shots. I ran my photography business for the first year and did very well with virtually no skills as a photographer based off of just knowing the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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