mmrmnhrm Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 So my Honda just ticked over 100k not too long ago, and this evening decided it was time to throw up the maintenance codes for a whole bunch of stuff. Normally I'd just do it all myself, except in the case of spark plugs and brake fluid, where I don't have the tools or experience. But between work and wedding planning, I just don't have the inclination this time around, so besides getting dealer quotes, I wanted to ask y'all what a reasonable estimate should be. The maint code is B1234, which means: B- Oil and filter change, plus the usual multi-point inspection type stuff 1- Tire rotation 2- Engine and cabin filters, inspect drive belt 3- Trans fluid 4- Spark plug replacement, valve clearance adjustment Plus I need... - Brake fluid replacement (which I've never done, should have had done once already, and don't want to risk screwing up) - Timing belt? (old/outdated advice?) - Water pump? (I've heard that you're supposed to replace them at 100k regardless, but don't actually see this written anywhere) Are shops amenable to doing just some stuff these days? The plugs and brakes are really the only things I *want* to farm out, but with this thing entering middle age, I'd like to find a shop I can feel reasonably confident in when something more substantial needs done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 What engine is it? Are the plugs that hard to do? Changing the brake fluid is easy, now I'm sure I'll get shit for this, but just repeatedly bleed the brakes until you get new fluid out of all the bleeders. A brake flush machine is nice but thats basically all it does, cycling the ABS module is nice but not something usually done by most shops anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 I'm sure I'll get shit for this, but just repeatedly bleed the brakes until you get new fluid out of all the bleeders. I have always done it this way too. F the machine, especially paying for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmrmnhrm Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Engine - Hybrid 1.4L 4cyl inline, fourth generation IMA. I "know the theory" on doing plugs, but the last time I was near a car with the plugs out, I was 4 years old and my dad had the Datsun in pieces replacing just about every electrical piece in the thing. It didn't help that typing "iridium spark plugs" into Google threw more results than there are horny coeds on campus, but that's an entirely different issue. Brake fluid - I don't know what new versus old fluid looks like or how to bleed the lines. They're one of the parts I've never touched before, and something I'd rather not risk getting wrong. However, if Honda shops all quote $300 for that portion, and NTB only charges $150, well... just because I like one-stop shopping doesn't mean I'm immune to cost differentials, especially with the way Honda corporate has been screwing hybrid owners with dying battery packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acklac7 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 What engine is it? Are the plugs that hard to do? Changing the brake fluid is easy, now I'm sure I'll get shit for this, but just repeatedly bleed the brakes until you get new fluid out of all the bleeders. A brake flush machine is nice but thats basically all it does, cycling the ABS module is nice but not something usually done by most shops anyway. About to service my brakes too and was thinking of changing the fluid. So basically open the bleeders, pump the brakes (in there normal range of travel) a few times, replenish with fluid, then repeat? Also is this messy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Is this what your engine bay looks like? http://acarisnotarefrigerator.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/honda_civic_hybrid_2006_engine.jpg?w=630&h=393 It looks like I could do plugs in your driveway, in 15 minutes, want to buy me dinner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 About to service my brakes too and was thinking of changing the fluid. So basically open the bleeders, pump the brakes (in there normal range of travel) a few times, replenish with fluid, then repeat? Also is this messy? You can't just open the bleeders and pump. Without a one-man bleeder tool of some kind, there are many ways to do it by yourself, but for basic theory you bleed brakes by having some one pump then hold while you open and shut the bleeder letting fluid out without sucking air back in. On a side note I made a one-man bleeder out of a plastic bottle, a rubber hose to slip over the bleeder, and a little extra brake fluid, and this is how I do it at work. Looks like this, hose goes into bottle submerged in brake fluid so it can't suck air back in. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/bleedbottle.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmrmnhrm Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Is this what your engine bay looks like? http://acarisnotarefrigerator.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/honda_civic_hybrid_2006_engine.jpg?w=630&h=393 It looks like I could do plugs in your driveway, in 15 minutes, want to buy me dinner? Yep, that's it. Sadly I don't have a driveway... still renting the same apartment I've had in Worthington since I moved to CBus in '05. I might take you up on it, though... 15 minutes is pretty damned quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Yep, that's it. Sadly I don't have a driveway... still renting the same apartment I've had in Worthington since I moved to CBus in '05. I might take you up on it, though... 15 minutes is pretty damned quick Unless I'm missing something, I'm not a Honda tech, but the plugs should be right under that plastic engine cover and some ignition coils. Pretty easy car to do if I'm right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickey4271647545519 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Unless I'm missing something, I'm not a Honda tech, but the plugs should be right under that plastic engine cover and some ignition coils. Pretty easy car to do if I'm right. Basically. http://www.cartype.com/pics/8783/full/honda_civic_hybrid_01.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mensan Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Yours is similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 When you use that one man setup I assume theres air in the tube connected between the fitting and bottle. You pump and old fluid is forced into the tube however probably doesnt fill it all up at one shot. When you ease up it has to draw some of that fluid back into the line right? If so is it just not enough to make what your doing counterproductive, as in you force it out and then its drawn right back in? Also I have a small manual vacuum, could I esentially attach this to the line and start pumping as long as I keep filling up the reservoir? Lastly whats the order in which you should bleed the brakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmrmnhrm Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Yours is similar. Bloody hell... apart from not having the torque wrench and socket+extension, that's fsckin' easy (says the guy who thinks maybe going to auto mech school would be a better idea than putzing around computers for the rest of his life) That said, we are kinda wandering off. Given that I don't have a driveway to do the oil and trans fluid changes in anyways, and there's no way on god's green earth I'd let JiffyLube touch my car (not that they stock 0w-20 anyway), what's a reasonable ball-park shop estimate? (fwiw, by the time 200k rolls around, I do expect to have the driveway issue cleared, and maybe invite you over to do some.... tinkering....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Chris if you need a place to tinker let me know, I have a garage and tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Not Brian Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 I did a compression test on my Civic back in the Kroger hangout days lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 When you use that one man setup I assume theres air in the tube connected between the fitting and bottle. You pump and old fluid is forced into the tube however probably doesnt fill it all up at one shot. When you ease up it has to draw some of that fluid back into the line right? If so is it just not enough to make what your doing counterproductive, as in you force it out and then its drawn right back in? Also I have a small manual vacuum, could I esentially attach this to the line and start pumping as long as I keep filling up the reservoir? Lastly whats the order in which you should bleed the brakes? Yes there is some air in the tube when you start, but multiple pumps clears it out and bleeds the brakes. Keep pumping and it will quickly overfill the bottle (much more comes out then goes in). A lot of guys use a vacuum, so yes that is another one-man option, I've also seen a tool that pushes fluid in but have never used one. Brakes are typically bled from farthest to closest to the master cylinder, right rear, left rear, right front, left front. There are a few odd ball cars out there that this wouldn't be the prefered order of bleeding, but in most cases its not overly critical anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Bloody hell... apart from not having the torque wrench and socket+extension, that's fsckin' easy (says the guy who thinks maybe going to auto mech school would be a better idea than putzing around computers for the rest of his life) That said, we are kinda wandering off. Given that I don't have a driveway to do the oil and trans fluid changes in anyways, and there's no way on god's green earth I'd let JiffyLube touch my car (not that they stock 0w-20 anyway), what's a reasonable ball-park shop estimate? (fwiw, by the time 200k rolls around, I do expect to have the driveway issue cleared, and maybe invite you over to do some.... tinkering....) Yes it is. If I were you, I'd get a trans flush and brake flush done somewhere since this stuff would be difficult in an apartment, and take care of the other few things yourself. and you really don't need a torque wrench to do plugs, its not rocket science all they need to be snug. (I guess to someone who doesn't have the experience this would ensure they were the right degree of snug) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark1647545493 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 I recently changed the brake fluid in my Turbo Coupe by myself and I used one of these. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html or if you don't have an air compressor you could use one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html Start at the right rear corner of the car or and run with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staywide8 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 No timing belt..its a chain. Hybrids have 8 plugs...plan accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmrmnhrm Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 No timing belt..its a chain. Hybrids have 8 plugs...plan accordingly. Ya, started looking at plug options last night.... :fuuuu: NGK? Denso? E3? Bosch? The OEM plugs in there now are (or should be, at least) iridium plugs from NGK or Denso, but now's when I get to start playing with options, and if there's something better, I'm willing to put them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 You can't go wrong with the NGKs, thats what I would use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
staywide8 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Use factory honda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmrmnhrm Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Use factory honda Besides being a Honda service writer and having to stump for that, why should I go OEM (given that OEM's in 2006 were Denso and/or NGK anyways)? You can PM me if you don't want to let the boss man see "I'm only saying that because I have to, personally I'd use ......." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolrayz Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I'm at the same place with my 06 civic. The book says to use honda trans fluid and radiator coolant only. Anybody know if that is true? They say you can use the chevy stuff but only in a bind and it must be flushed out after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmrmnhrm Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I'm at the same place with my 06 civic. The book says to use honda trans fluid and radiator coolant only. Anybody know if that is true? They say you can use the chevy stuff but only in a bind and it must be flushed out after. What kind of trans? The hybrid has a CVT rather than traditional automatic, so there's a specialized fluid for it. The trans code only pops every 25k, so it's not a big deal since it drains and replaces just like engine oil. Automatics... dunno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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